Restoration Project

Clutch pedal not sticking mate, the noise happens 2/3's the way down but comes back up easily.

Like I said before likely be pressure plate as when shaft slightly inserted you put lot of stress on it if struggling with box,
Not a great quality plate if hub has cracked from that, normally they buckle at hub join or crack plate joining hub .
Camera quality don't look bad, you should add link for that in tools :-)

Nearly there, got the engine out from start to finish in 3 1/2 hours







Hoping to get the box off later and find out what the damage is.  The wife let me in that garage but the deal was if the baby woke Id have to come back in under the thumb or what!!  guess what got the engine out and she text

Should of kept your baby wrench in the toolbox lol   it's like spilling water on a gremlin when get that out the tool drawer

Well the plot thickens! plate fine



cover fine



although the tips of the fingers look like theyve got hot?





What looked like a crack was infact a bit of steel



But, for some reason on the inside of the bell housing



Does the cover expand when releasing? this might explain the noise, definetly been rubbing on the cover, but only when pressing the clutch pedal.

I cant see any other marks that would make the noise...  If I get chance tomorrow I'll whizz the fly off build the clutch back up and pop it on the input shaft to see if it is catching.  I'll make a brack to bolt to gearbox to keep the fly from being pushed off when operating the clutch.

Can you see likely point on cover that made that contact !
You got fresh swarf from the contact over clutch ?
Does flywheel & clutch parts all run true ?
Place cover in bellhousing to get idea what contacting
Are gearbox alignment dowels & clutch cover dowels all in place ?
Possibly something wrong in cover causing it run off true as fingers loaded or cover flexing at one point ! you probably dig up a conclusion if dig around . odd one though :-S

Can you see likely point on cover that made that contact ! Nope
You got fresh swarf from the contact over clutch ? The swarf was from when I caught the input shaft trying to get it on
Does flywheel & clutch parts all run true ? dont know yet
Place cover in bellhousing to get idea what contacting Planning on building it all up and mounting gearbox in car connecting hydraulics and seeing whats what
Are gearbox alignment dowels & clutch cover dowels all in place ? yep all there
Possibly something wrong in cover causing it run off true as fingers loaded or cover flexing at one point ! you probably dig up a conclusion if dig around . odd one though :-S Ive kept the original Nissan cover so can compare against

Will keep this updated with what I find, was hoping to see a gouge in the friction plate and a buggered finger

No sign of block tin plate catching on ring gear teeth then ! (wondering if mark anyway related to fiting grief & noise somewhere else, mark does look rotational contact gouge though ! )
I would manually just put cover in bell housing to get position idea & contact idea of cover ! I'm curious lol :-)
I assume cover tilting or flexing off square as fingers loaded slightly :-S
won't sleep tonight now lol :-/ I need answers or sleeping pills lol ...

After Johnny said the other day about the tin plate catching I checked it when I took the box off and its fine.  I did cut it either side where the starter goes throughb but made sure it fitted correctly when first installing the box.

Out of interest how many times can the fly bolts be reused? I didnt renew them, last time.  If I remember correctly I think you replied to a post about torquing them less than factory spec? Sure I replied on the same thread but cant find it!  Will check straightness of the cover and plate tomorrow morning.

Just for you Mr B, I went back out to the garage to solve the mystery! Couldn't bear you not sleeping

So up ended gearbox, put the cover on the release bearing, got it near enough center as I could and well....





Looks as though when I thought the chain tensioner was goosed and letting the chain droop causing engine to lock when rotating by hand, it was actually the cover plate hitting the casing  so when priming the engine it cut the groove, then was fine until operating the clutch obviously that must move out slightly and causes the noise.





Comparing it to the OEM cover, that bit is bigger on the blue print one, OEM one is smaller and more curvy, plus sits further forward away from the casing.



Hard to see in that picture, but it's no where near the casing.



OEM on the bottom



Don't know what to do now, either grind a bit of the casing away or grind the BP cover (risking unbalancing it) or lob the OEM one back on after cleaning it up?

Thank buddha for that mr burrows I been tossing & turning, counting sheep & all sorts :-)
Think I would grind housing just to tidy up the gouge then take bit off the cover to be sure it clears, If remove lot of material then can always pop it in a shop for a balance but doubt it will be out of acceptable balance range unless unlucky .
least it not really your fault from fitting so you in the clear there, might be worth putting up specific thread on that for ADN clutch so others don't get same problem .
Think i'll be comparing & inspecting clutcches more thoroughly from now ...

I'll pop a thread up, it might just be a bit of excess cast in my box, as long as theres not something gear internals a few mm the other side of that!

Am I right in think that part thats catching must move when the release bearing pushes on the fingers?

You can use a lath to remove equal amounts. But I'd grid the casing, that's how I got the big ass clutch to fit in mine.

Yeh I would only smooth off the gouge rather than cut deeper.
You got 3 of those rivet to spring plate position pieces so if re-work each one close to oem cover it should be fine & still balanced quite well as not doing it just at one point .
as clutch pressed the steel plate in the cover will move back a bit towards gearbox casing, If looks iffy trying re-work it good enough then sourcing another cover would be safer than another removal :-S

Cheers guys, shame my lathe is only a 5" bed height I'll grind the casing tomorrow, tidy it up see what clearances I can get. Dont particularly want to build it back up and happen again

I never thought of it here mind just with been the engine,box and clutch it was but is what had to be done when I fitted my new primera p10 box to the sunny Gti running pulsar sr 20 Det lump. But I knew this as was pre grinded marks on the old box so copied them before I fitted it

Heres a vid of the cover catching



Looks an easy fix to be honest.  Will get it done one night this week and get it all back together.

Need to find the missing driveshaft spring clip in the transfer box noticed its no longer on the shaft, doh!

Which driveshaft is missing the clip? As one has a clip the other doesn't?

The longer shaft doesn't have one fitted its in the box.

Ahhh cool saves me looking then it's the long one I noticed didn't have it. Cheers matey

Bolted the box on before, but before doing that I painted the area I ground red so easier to see with the endoscope!



Bolted box on and put the endoscope in to check the clearances



Tomorrow will get the engine mounted and bolt slave cylinder back on, operate the clutch and check clearances again..  Hopefully there should be no problem this time round!

Fingers crossed mate

Hopefully mate

Chucked engine back in this afternoon, hooked up slave cylinder got my mate to operae clutch while I watched with the endoscope, and thankfully looks like it clears it now. Rotated the engine with the clutch pedal to the floor and seems ok

Got a spare 5 minutes to day to start the car up and check wether the clutch issue is now cured..



Thankfully works a treat now, get the rest of the front end built up now, maybe MOT end of summer

Nice one, glad its all sorted out,