what needs changing ?

hi all i was getting ready to put car back together when i thought i would strip the bottem end ... lol so my question is what is there to change apart from the shells ? im doing it as a precaution so i can then drive the thing knowing its pretty much all been dfone

thanks sam

Rear main oil seal
Clean out oil pick up strainer
Check and clean oil pump oil pressure relief valve and renew front main seal

That's about it really

ok thanks bob pressure relief valve wheres that ? does the oil pump have to come off todo that ? plus could that be wat was releasing pressure as when i would start my car on cold mornings the pressure would build up then let of some pressure with a funny noise then noise dis apears ..?

Pressure release valve is in the oil pump you have to take both parts of the sump off to get at it ..... its a spring and sleeve with ball bearing the sleeve bit gets shitty clean up with abit of wet n dry 1200 grit so its smooth as job done .... think thats it ... correct me if im wrong ...

thanks nomad shell do that tomos any one have minimum and maximum measurements for the crankshaft / shells ? thanks sam

Plastigauge is the way mate think they come two different sizes one for re grinded crank (oversized or race...and standard size .... im not a 100%on that just remember reading it somewhere ...

If the cranks good with no scoring at all just get a set of acl std bearings but check the old ones before ordering as it may have been ground to .25mm

To do the job properly you need to plastigage the crank

Omg shit the bed i was nearly right  

You are kind of right Leighton
There are 2standard sizes but one has a slightly larger clearance which is designed for mainly race use where temps get very high
Then they do ground sizes too from .25 upwards

Kind of right is good enough for me    .. ive never done them on a pulsar ... just remember  reading it somewhere im impressed i remember that much .... it means atleast one of my brain cells is semi working  

oki thanks nomad and bob it there any other way off doing it ? as plastigauge is a uk thing and i havent got any might have to buy some off ebay ... but ideally i need the car running for the 20th of this month !!   

just had a look on ebay theres different platigauges coulors what does the different coulors mean ? different measurements? or nothing at all ?

had a bit of time today to do a bit more on the engine as its a bank holiday here ! heres a few photos

1st one is this the pressure release valve bottem left? if so how the hell do i get to it??



another thing is this normale i dont think it is but we will see what you think the con rod brackets 3 have the nissan logo at the top and one has it at the bottem as if its been turned around? to the right the other two are put in the same way but one on the left wrong way round?

yeah looks like its the wrong way round all the 0s should match up on one side and numbers together on the other side i.e 1,2,3,4

Thanks Bob I'm taking oil pump off tomos and taking the crank out to inspect it then order wats needed as I have found little bits of metal in the pick up.. where can I get con rod and big ends and thrust washers in UK acl ones as looked on ebay and the set off 3 is America I'd rather get from England if I can

Oki crank is scratched Wat to do next ? Problem is being in France finding somewhere that can redo it so I put bigger bearings in going to be hard and the price is must probably going to be something mad.... Bob do you have any gd ones in stock if so Wat price could you pm me please thanks sam

Decent Stock ones go for silly money .... do the scratches look deep or think they could be polished out ?

well you can see the scrathes on almost all of them but when u put ur finger nail over them only 1 or 2 catch my nail .. i will try and put some photos up later

Checking crank & regrind is not expensive really, just make effort find decent machine shop.
People make a right fuss trying get a perfect crank when in most cases you probably better off working with yours as long as rest of crank checks out fine.

bob is away for abit aswell. I think he keeps his for people who ask for a build and did not have many in stock last time (I think am right)

I'm in France Sam viva la France

As said get it ground to .25mm but do not go any more than that or it will completely remove the nitrided surface

Now where's my beer lol

As said .25mm is the sweat spot & works out quite affordable & definitely way to go if crank perfect in all other respects.
Nitriding depth ranges from .50 to .75mm from cranks inspected by my machine shop. You can get them re-nitride coated but costs start add up but as good cranks become scarce it will be only option at times.
Would be good keep some ACL bearing stock too as production ceases this month & unlikely will be bought out as company been looking for buyers for close to 2 yrs.
Don't know if bob keeps much stock of bearings but might be wise buy some while still easy & prices not inflated.

just got a price off 450 euro about 380-400 pounds to get crank ground i think thats rather expensive??

http://www.robwalkerengineering.com/crankshaft_regrinding.html
maybe ring a uk company and send it over ?

thanks nomad will be looking further into that tomos thanks very much for that that could make it possible and much cheaper