French Rally Sunny GTiR

Calipers are quite in good condition, but rotors are expensive...93 each.

I hope to reach to extract these f*cking pins of the calipers to remove the pads.

I ask the guy for a refund of 100quids or i give him back the full kit and full refund.

Close to 375 pounds to rebuild......so i'd rather buy a new kit directly... 

Do you know what calipers they are fred as i read in another forum that hispec calipers use pistons from another car so its only a case of buying those seals wich obviously cost fook all i read the bloke paid like 8 quid for the whole set ....thats if the pistons are not scored etc

I trust that rotors can be buy elsewhere, bolts too (12.5 ex vat!! Ah ah), i'm sure about pads too...i need to check on french website like oreca, like demon tweaks, but without postal Costs...
Bleeders too, i need to buy some pins but seems to be particular...

They come from the conversion kit, so i believe they are billet 4 calipers.

Updates, yesterday i received a pallet from bobby  
with plenty of good things!!

- comp mo's 17"
- spare wheel and cover
- goose downpipe
- front strut brace
- full main carpet
and other little things wich were broken or missing on the car.

need to mount all those now!

i bought an oil "pump" to re-fill the gearbox too before going on a ride!

Id do the seal first as your only have to refill it again mate .... looks like you got enough to keep you busy

for sure, i'd like to reach nissan on the phone to order the seal and the exhaust seals too to fit the exhaust after getting through the MOT, but they need to call me back...

i'll be waiting for the alloys lug nuts to fit the comp mos.
(i ordered a new steering wheel and a new gearknob...)

How to pull out the driveshaft? is there a clip to maintain it?

i plan to put aside the caliper and take all the driveshaft and hub, disc assembly out.
am i right on this way?

How i did mine was obviously undo the hub nut i used a strong srewdriver inbetween the disc vent then roll that up to the caliper then a big braeker bar as the nuts a bloody tight undid the caliper hung that up with a couple of cable ties to the strut spring to keep it out the way undo the the two bolts that hold the hub to the strut now the hub is able to be moved about and there is just about enough room to pull the shaft out of the hub .... you can pop the bottom ball joint but mine was wedged hard then you can pull the driveshaft i think its a snap ring that holds in the box but cant remmeber now lol depends on what side it is also

You have a tripod joint that goes into the knuckle before the gearbox so i pulled my shaft out of that wich just left the stub in the box .

Bob did say there is a few differnt types of driveshaft so probably best to cut or undo the ties on the boot and check before you go pulling on anything  

Ok nomad, all understood! thx

i took a little look to the maintenance manual, and i see how they do.

i didn't want to untight the driveshaft screw as it's hard tight as you said!

first i will put my finger in the box  to feel the oil level, if it's good (i have a doubt about this!) i'll be waiting for the seal (the leaking seal is on the RH front side)

So that would be your drivers side then in frenchy land ? You can feel if its a tripod joint you will feel the indents around the stub bit just behind the gaitor .... if you can feel that just pop the the rubber off and check the you can take the driveshaft outta of the way wich gives you a bit more room mate

The engine and box are mounted the same way though ?

lol, ok nomad! yes here in the cheese country the only things wich is deferent is the pedal box, steering column, steering rack and all the brake servo....that's all!!

so all the engine and box same way as your Bean eater country   

fred05 wrote:Ok nomad, all understood! thx

i took a little look to the maintenance manual, and i see how they do.

i didn't want to untight the driveshaft screw as it's hard tight as you said!

first i will put my finger in the box  to feel the oil level, if it's good (i have a doubt about this!) i'll be waiting for the seal (the leaking seal is on the RH front side)

I do it buy removing trackrod, then removing caliper from hub & brakeline mount on strut & secure caliper under arch so not dangling or straining the brake pipe, then remove lower arm balljoint, then use a prybar with care to pop the shaft from box & you can swing the whole strut & drive shaft clear, if need more room or have issues on not enough movement just undo strut top mount & whole strut, hub & drive shaft can be taken out as one quickly & easily with minimal tools needed. If lower ball joint look hard to remove you can remove lower arm if looks easier.

thanks for the advices boys!! i'll look at this problem when i'll have the seal in hand.

cheers

Yeah but what you got to remember fred is its a 20year old car so stuff tends to be stuck or rusted in should i say lol i replaced both my track rod ends whilst doing mine .... then you gotta hope if your popping the bottom ball joint you dont split the rubber or its going to cost you lol .... thats why i said my method as you dont need to remove to much in the respect of lower ball joint trackrod end although i guess you could undo the the lower arm from the two inner rubbers but dont forget you have the drop links that go into that ..so maybe worth checking on how old they look before attempting to remove them my ones snapped not expensive to replace though just trying to cover all angles mate

humm interesting...
my car is not so rusty, far less than you can have in your country as it was in the south of France, just last year it was upper in the country but in a garage....WD40 is my friend!!  

so :
- track rods end
- drop links bushes
- lower ball joint

anything else to change when i'm there??

Im not saying you will 100% have to change them just bear in mind that if you got all bits stripped out and they are looking past there sell by date or break those are the bits you will need ..... and wasnt saying your car was a rust monster lol ....just letting you know before you get stuck into it ..... lower ball joints are pressfit think danr put up a link of the wishbones wich were like a primera or something but you just replace the rear bush but they are cheaper than buying the balljoint if that makes sense .

Problem is you tend to over stress the lower Ball joint travel if do nomad way so if boot bad they end up split & need doing anyway. My way is quick if ball joint to hub not a rusted mess
Many people have issues with driveshaft nut or seized shaft in hub so going balljoint or lower arm can be quicker & get around not having an impact gun or good seized driveshaft hub removal tool.
Checkout ball joint first & spray some duck oil on it a day or 2 before.
like Nomad says at the age of these cars now you tend to end up with more jobs needed than first planned but with bit of thinking on all options some hassles can be avoided.
I tend to find the old jap stuff comes apart far easier than less than half the age european stuff due to high grade if all bolts etc so hopefully you will have some luck ...

Lower ball joints are press fit but easily done with a good engineers vice & Knock out easily with a hammer.
Lower balljoint can be had from ADL or Delphi & listed under Sunny GTiR & cost around £10 to £18 depending on your status at the motorfactors.
I would not use the aftermarket wishbones unless you have damaged or corroded wishbone as quality is far worse than a 20 year old original so rebuilding original is best way forward & cheapest option should yours need doing.

fred05 wrote:humm interesting...
my car is not so rusty, far less than you can have in your country as it was in the south of France, just last year it was upper in the country but in a garage....WD40 is my friend!!  

Yeh same for me, not so much rust here in Asia but UK is a PITA for some.

I have some good tools with me so i can change the Ball joint only if needed rather than changing all the lower arms, i believe Nothing has been done on my car about bushes so for 15 quids each assembly, i can really change all! Im quite tempted to go with poly bushes but standard parts are far sufficient for my use.

I'll inspect all first before ordering.

http://www.priracing.com/search.php?xSearch=nissan+pulsar+gtir some good bushes at better prices than powerflex if needed fred .... also got a few other parts places if needed also that do balljoints track rod ends etc ....

So, some updates!!
oil seal is leaking, for sure this is it. so monday, i'll order it and other bits.

i changed the gearknob this morning, it looks Great! i've choosen a D1 spec i bought from ebay with some D1 spec alloy lug nuts, in black to put the comp mos on.

i'm waiting for my new dished steering wheel too.

As i thought, box need to be oil refilled, and the driveshaft has a special head. i'll do the job in the week.

saturday, MOT planned :-D