Another restoration thread.

Don't forget the restrictor for the tuby, one oil line needs to be re-done.

typeritr wrote:THe Greddy manifold does indeed have a triangular flange. I am going to weld a T3 flange onto it though to fit the new turbo.

They will sell alright, when is the problem!! I want them sold yesterday already, nothing worst than getting stuck half way through!!

Oh my god please don't do that....that's an ultra rare JDM Trust manifold and they are over £2000 new!

astarozna wrote:Don't forget the restrictor for the tuby, one oil line needs to be re-done.

Is it not possible just to fit a banjo bolt with a smaller oil feed hole in it Rather then re doing a braided line?

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/fittings/

Ryaneg6freak wrote:Oh my god please don't do that....that's an ultra rare JDM Trust manifold and they are over £2000 new!

It is not going to damage the manifold. I am not going to cut off the original flange just went another flange on top of it so if i need to remove the flange at any point it will still be original.

typeritr wrote:

Ryaneg6freak wrote:Oh my god please don't do that....that's an ultra rare JDM Trust manifold and they are over £2000 new!

It is not going to damage the manifold. I am not going to cut off the original flange just went another flange on top of it so if i need to remove the flange at any point it will still be original.

That's more like it. I do believe Nengun actually has a 3 bolt greddy to T3 flange adapter on it's website

typeritr wrote:

astarozna wrote:Don't forget the restrictor for the tuby, one oil line needs to be re-done.

Is it not possible just to fit a banjo bolt with a smaller oil feed hole in it Rather then re doing a braided line?

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/fittings/

I don't think they do banjos with that of small restrictor hole.

I am just waiting on a email back from Garrett I sent the technical team an email asking what size restrictor i need. However a few threads online had recommended a 1mm restrictor. Banjo bolts are available down to .75mm so will hopefully get away with it.

I just been doing wiring on the car all last week. Removed the carpet though and found this




Any Ideas what it is? I am guessing it used to be for some aftermarket gauge or something, the fact it is braided maybe something going to the exhaust.

Is that the thing for the cat temp sensor? When the cat is hot it lights up on the dash when you turn the car off or something cant remember all I know is its useless and anoying

Exhaust temp sensor wiring maybe .
Standard exhaust has a sensor after the cat

I found the same thing

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t5802-what-is-this

Thanks for the info. I removed it anyway, it probably was the temp sensor!!

I am going to fit components in the front of the car so thought I may as well get the tweeters fitted where i wont destroy the dash!! Not sure how they will sound in there but will give it a go and better than fitting them anywhere else.




Have the inside fully stripped now apart from the wring which I'm not going to remove.






Going to get some dry Ice and remove the sound deadening, make sure there is no rust under there.
Then Clean it all up and spray it with Rust Bullet. Clean inside the quater panels, waxoil and put it all back together. Hopefully get it done next week or the week after. Interior finished then, back to working on the exterior.

Dry ice makes the horrid job of removing sound deadening so much easier

Even better is liquid nitrogen. If you can get some of that, it will be a 10 minute job. Any compressed gasses dealer will sell you some, in a special container call a Dewar. As long as you take some common sense precautions, you won't injure yourself.

Basically, goggles, AND a face shield, cryo-gloves, and long sleeve shirt/pants and closed toed shoes.

Pour it on the sound deadening, wait about 2 minutes, and bam, comes right off in huge chunks with a hammer, literally shatters on impact.

10kg of ice is 55 and 1 litre of the alcohol is €10. So €65 to do the job. I can't imaging how much liquid nitrogen would be!! That is if i could get it. Struggled to find dry ice as it is.

typeritr wrote:10kg of ice is 55 and 1 litre of the alcohol is €10. So €65 to do the job. I can't imaging how much liquid nitrogen would be!! That is if i could get it. Struggled to find dry ice as it is.

It's not as expensive as you think it is, and usually it can be found, along with dry ice, at any industrial gasses supplier, where you would buy CO2 or Welding gasses.

Self control is highly overrated. If it were not for a sever lack of self control I would not have all these beautiful GTI-R parts





I also got a Tumbler.



The real purpose of this particular machine it to polish bullet casings. Im sure it will do a great job of removing the last rust off some bolts if I tumble them with some tumbling media. I am thinking walunt shells but cant find any for sale other than online.

typeritr wrote:Self control is highly overrated. If it were not for a sever lack of self control I would not have all these beautiful GTI-R parts





I also got a Tumbler.



The real purpose of this particular machine it to polish bullet casings. Im sure it will do a great job of removing the last rust off some bolts if I tumble them with some tumbling media. I am thinking walunt shells but cant find any for sale other than online.

I am hoping to make my biggest purchase very soon.

I have one as well, crushed walnut shells are easy to find on amazon. I do a lot of ammunition reloading and a tumbler is a must to make brass look new again.

Ryaneg6freak wrote:Even better is liquid nitrogen. If you can get some of that, it will be a 10 minute job.  Any compressed gasses dealer will sell you some, in a special container call a Dewar. As long as you take some common sense precautions, you won't injure yourself.

Basically, goggles, AND a face shield, cryo-gloves, and long sleeve shirt/pants and closed toed shoes.

Pour it on the sound deadening, wait about 2 minutes, and bam, comes right off in huge chunks with a hammer, literally shatters on impact.

That shit killed a terminator

nice thread fella keep up the good work oh and the cash flow lol

Cash is still flowing as i sold 2 sets of wheels. Only 3 and a half sets to go now.

I took out all the sound deadening tonight. For anybody that wants to do this job i highly recommend Dry Ice mixed with methylated spirits.

I considered using a hammer and chisel but saw them do it like this online and though I may as well give it a go. I used 10kg of ice and 1 litre of spirits.



Took me a hr and a half to remove 99% of the sound deadening. I couldn't get the bit on top of the transmission tunnel as it seemed really thick. Also couldn't get the bits in the footwell right up the top, under the rubber, behind the pedals and behind the glovebox.

I was happy enough with what i found under the deadening. There are 3 issues, one small patch of rust behind the passenger seat that will need some attention a patch about half the size of an iPhone 5.
On the drivers side at the end of the sill, someone obviously jacked the car up incorrectly and caused a bulge which looks to have some rust on the edge of it, will have to fix that.
Finally the same muppet who was jacking the car incorrectly looks to have struck again. This time he jacked the car off a chassis rail and caused another bulge in the floor pan on the passenger side. Not too unhappy though as 2 small patches are easy to fix. Don't think I will fix the bulge from being jacked on the passenger side though as it is not causing any issues really. I got my hopes up expecting a perfect car, maybe it was too much to ask.

For anybody interested the sound deadening weight roughly 17kg.



I cant imagine removing sound deadening with a chisel and hammer!

So I have gotten another bit of work done to the car. Was hoping to have the interior refitted by the end of this week but that wont happen.

Over the weekend I went over the interior with a wire wheel and sander. Any patches of rust I could find got a blast of the wire wheel. Even thumb print sized surface rust got hit with it. I also got a soda blaster into the inner arches to remove the bead of rust that was forming on the join of the arches and quarter panel.

It was an absolute curse to clean the inner arches of the soda after the blasting was completed, the hover was not strong enough to get into the edges and compressed air blew it everywhere. I eventually got it all out though, and cleaned up the rest of the interior of all the dust
 
Once I had de rusted every where and cleaned the car up, I got a product to convert rust back to metal, just in case the wire wheel didnt get everything, I dabbed the metal patches with this product. Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter.
I got 3/4 of the way through masking up the car.
Only have one picture taken


For the perfectionists, this might not be the best way to do things, ideally stripping all the wiring out etc would be the proper job. But, I have searched every mm of the interior and got every single dot of rust, so doing it this way has indeed served its purpose.
I got under the rubber behind the dash too on the firewall, that section was a ball ache to get to but at least there was no rust there!!  
There may be bits of overspray on the odd wire but that will be well hidden under the carpet so I'm not too bothered!
I am spraying the floor / sides with rust bullet and going to give it 3 coats, so at least I will know under the carpet / behind the panels will be spotless. Once the paint has dried I am then going to use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax inside the arches and any cavity I can find.

On a side note what are all the covered up holes in the floor for? Can they be welded in? I just see them as a danger point for moisture to get in from!!

I also am rebuilding the rear calipers and though I would show ye my old pistons





All the online tutorials remove caliper pistons with compressed air. Not one tutorial I could find removed a piston by twisting it off, not to mention rebuilding the screw inside the piston!!

I don't think I would bother rebuilding the rear calipers, they're too cheap not to just replace. But, good job none the less. Looks like you're making good progress.

typeritr wrote:






Greddy Manifold, not too happy with the flange on it though. I am looking to buy a Holset turbo, but they are all twin scroll manifolds, the OEM manifold actually looks better suited to the twinscroll than this manifold. The exhaust pipe that feeds the turbo seems to be a small enough diameter. Anybody got any experience of the Greddy Manifold? This one was ceramic coated at some stage.

I just got the deal of the century on the same Greddy manifold. $76 off yahoo auctions japan. Although the moron cut the flange off way high for some reason, no matter, i can weld it back on.

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/v533930051?lang=en&rc=yaucc

The brakes only really took about 2 hrs to rebuild fully from start to finish and saved 80 quid. So worth it in my opinion Puls i just wanted to do it anyway for the satisfaction of knowing i did it.

Bit more progress.





I am going to put on 3 layers of this rust bullet, but I had no tinners or white spirits after doing the job, i tried to get to the shop but they were closed!! So my spray gun will be clogged. I will have to soak it overnight in some tinners once i get it.

Nice buy on the manifold alright. That 3 bolt flange is a balls though.

Nice mate, loving the updates on this!