Mystery No Start

Symptoms - Car died while driving, made a hissing noise of sorts and a deadening thud. Won't start, just turns over but won't catch.

Checked the following:
Fuel pump primes
Plugs/Wires/
Dizzy Cap/Rotor
Piping in tact
Battery Good

I haven't had much alone time to really diagnose her, but the cranks are strong, slower, but doesn't catch to start. Baffled!

Blew a ic pipe off ? How were you driving at the time ?

are you getting a spark?

The majority of the IC piping rests on the top and front underside of the car,no? Unless I'm missing something it all is connected. Also if there was no spark, what would be the culprit?

Coil, ignition amplifier or their respective wiring. Have you checked all the fuses inside the engine bay fusebox too? Maybe one has popped and killed power to something?

Coil plugs blown off so it just turns over?

Pull a couple of plugs see if it's dry or flooded and while out crank n check for spark will give you a idea of fuel n spark. Immobiliser gone wrong killing fuel or spark ?

Pulled plugs there is fuel, tested plugs there is no spark! In the process of testing the power transistor, and ignition module, when using the multimeter is there a specific reading to look for? The power transistor is reading at 10.9 ohms (I'm not an electrical guy so forgive me for my newb question)

Have you tested the coil ???

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/viewimage.forum?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi695.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv315%2Fnomad29_bucket%2Fcoiltest1.jpg

Any imobiliser ?

I thought majority of immobilisers tap into fuel puml wiring and starter motor circuit rather than spark ???

Seen a few that kill fuel pump and ignition systems in different ways mate inc spark

Thanks @nomad...after testing it seems the coil is bad! Will be ordering a new one and seeing if any change.

Well...new coil in, now we have spark, albeit not strong, its there. Still not starting, battery seems to be dying as when it's cranking it starts off strong and slows down. Any other suggestions? Is the FL25A ENG CONT fuse of any worry? Seems to be the only fuse with an issue.

Also never heard of this immobilizer, where is it located?

Johnny is on about aftermarket imobiliser its not factory .....

Have a look at the wiring diagram on mummachummas. That fuse looks like it powers up the ecu relay (green relay next to ecu). Without that fuse I doubt the ecu is energising. When you turn the ignition on can you hear a relay click from behind the ashtray?

I didn't hear any relay clicking so I replaced said ENG CONT fuse, but still nothing :/

I would check engine earthing and earths in general (use jump lead as temp earth) and if not done already ecu fault code check.
Check power to ecu and ecu earth (use ecu pinout diagram in the useful links sticky, look at diagnostic pdf's too)
What voltage coil and ign amplifier get cranking ? does fuel pump prime when ignition turn to on ? does fuel pump get voltage when engine cranking ?

Link to PDF's
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t5301-useful-pdf-files-software-info-on-the-gtir-easy-download-from-google-drive

...and if they ^^^ don't yield results I would remove the ECU and open it up. It's quite possible something has shorted out which took out fusible link in engine bay. BTDT in my last one, which was in turn caused by a dodgy wire inside the MAF plug.

Figured out what it was fellows...pulled the head and low and behold all my rocker arms were split! When I tested compression and got a 0 reading I should've known, something more was at play. Unfortunately I don't have the time to work on it so I have towed it to a local shop to do the work.

I've accumulated some of the necessary parts needed for the rebuild, but had a couple questions for my GTiR brethren:

Mech told me I should get new lifters for the rebuild, the lifters are solid type tho? Do you have to replace them? The only ones I could find are Tomei. If I use those are there any benefits?

Also as for the rocker arms, I found some from FRS Sport, but I've been reading GTiR have specific ones, of which have a small difference in design, does anyone have a link to said specific ones.

tomei lifters you seen are solid conversion kit for hydraulic sr20det engines.
The gtir 54C is unique, precision shims in Oz do the lifter buckets and shims, I wouldn't replace buckets unless sign of wear/damage. Get new set of rocker arms from nissan or source used .
Cam and valve springs could do with checking (if not oem cam it ideally wants cam where ramp angles designed work with the 54C mechanical lifter design). You going need some new shims get valve lash spot on. Is few threads on topics related to these areas .

Mr B wrote:tomei lifters you seen are solid conversion kit for hydraulic sr20det engines.
The gtir 54C is unique, precision shims in Oz do the lifter buckets and shims, I wouldn't replace buckets unless sign of wear/damage. Get new set of rocker arms from nissan or source used .
Cam and valve springs could do with checking (if not oem cam it ideally wants cam where ramp angles designed work with the 54C mechanical lifter design). You going need some new shims get valve lash spot on. Is few threads on topics related to these areas .

I heard or read, can't remember where, that Nissan have discontinued the rocker arms. Part # 13257-54C00.
There was also another company, don't remember their name either, making them but I believe they are discontinued as well.
So, it looks like, unless you find someone with 'new old stock' that USED is going to be the only way.
Bob Heywood at gti-rus.co.uk is probably your best bet.

glad you found the problem but still, ouch!