Clutch pedal

That's what I was thinking mate, one less thing Ill hopefully not have troubles with in the future. When I ground down the slave I removed the piston and dropped it the dirt cleaned it up but what's the appropriate grease should I use? I have some wp silicon grease I was going to use?

did you pull the piston with seals or just the push rod ?
I wouldn't use synthetic grease when using glycol based brake fluids such as dot 3, 4 and 5.1 .
If assembling straight away you could use brake fluid and that tends be fsm way, red rubber grease can also be used and is fine in hydraulic systems and rubbers used and fluids in system, don't use common moly greases or copperslip etc. good thing with the red rubber grease is it not hygroscopic or corrosive like brake fluid so best way do them when sitting for long time before fitting and probably best way all round, if do use it aplly sparingly .

Mr B wrote:
... red rubber grease is it not hygroscopic or corrosive like brake fluid so best way do them when sitting for long time before fitting and probably best way all round, if do use it aplly sparingly .

All you need to know

Piston mate, thanks so ill pick up some red rubber grease

Repco and the like sell PBR rubber grease. All I ever use

Thanks mate, will sort that out today.

Herschel Castrol Penrith do red rubber grease, any decent motor parts or engineering supplier should stock it, online is also option but one of those things that generally so cheap locally, like 5 to 10 bucks for 20 to 100g sizes .
Example>
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Herschell-Red-Rubber-Grease-Tube-100g/402031

All fitted and had an unsuccessful time of bleeding this arvo.

I did the "do it yourself with a piece of wood" job. Use the wood to hold the clutch pedal down, filled the reservoir completely, released the bleed nipple, pump the clutch heaps and repeat the process.

It has a tiny bit pressure but not no where near the amount it should. Each time I need to lift the clutch pedal up with my hand. I did this about 7 times and completely filled my bleeder bottle, admittedly its only a small bottle.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-One-Man/291149

Am I doing something wrong? I gave up and went back to my bottle of JD and watching roadkill, does it take longer?  Ive bleed existing systems on other cars this way with no problems.....

I would do it old fashioned way and get a mate around or at last resort get the wife .
Just pump pedal down with nipple open and close nipple before clutch pedal released (push and release slowly)
With 2 people it far easier quicker an cleaner and you can see master fluid thus top up or adjust technique if fluid not being pumped in. Some of those one man bleeders are just useless, the vacuum units that pull fluid from bleed nipple can be useful, all I generally use is a homemade 1 way valve rubber pipe on nipple (valve is a front washer nonreturn valve borrowed from a Subaru) and a glass jar with a clamp attached to it . Sometimes though you need manually open and close the valve with someone else on pedal to get fluid moving.
If continue have issue, check braided line as some of the branded pre-made ones have universal flares that don't work well and can restrict flow causing issues .

Thanks B, Ill give that a go. I'm pretty sure the clutch line is fine. Ill ask the missus to help give me pumping tonight I cant imagine anything else would be wrong.

Hopefully just bleeder, smooth slow Pedal strokes are critical when pumping. I've had airlock issues hinder bleeding odd time bit not on the R's, they always bled quite easy manually on fully rebuilt systems.
Get some JD in your misses and get her in some overalls :-)
Your fridge and TV seems useful, think I may get a 32" to hook to notebook for bit of YouTube etc, got on super sale in tesco lotus so get wife put on my Santa list lol, probably get socks though :-(
You see the episode with bobtail pickup doing wheelies, I liked that lol.
Epic drives another good series, one in Cambodia was good and done couple in Oz that good .

Yeah that's what I was thinking, TV would be sweet to watch some youtube while working on the R and hanging out with mates, just adds bit of extra fun when working on the cars ill check out Epic drives always looking for new car shows

Yeh tv is that cheap I feel I ripping myself off not buying one, actually going in today as doubt have stock for long, won't tell wifey or she want buy stuff to then it not cheap tv haha .
Hope manual bleeding works.

Epic drives >
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL517C7B9E0B0CA325

episodes I liked >
4 wheeling Utah https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcqyZf_u6tE&index=2&list=PL517C7B9E0B0CA325
STi Cambodia (Cambodia is great) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRmWNhqLbvM
Oz Outback https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfTP2Uri9xM&t=23s
Oz ute https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvNt621Tz2g&index=5&list=PL517C7B9E0B0CA325&t=114s

gave this is a go today without any luck when I crack bleeder abit of fluid comes out but its not a constant flow as such, thinking i made try a different bleeder system or buy a pneumatic brake bleeder setup.

Give me a call

Try > removing slave from mounting point and holding the pushrod all way in using hand clamp or g-clamp, don't use the one man bleeder on the master filler, just fill near full pump pedal few times - 4 or 5 strokes to try get fluid into master and pushing air down the pipes to slave. If looks like taken some fluid top up then proceed by using bleed nipple open on down stroke and closed on up. let pedal travel fully and smoothly and not overly quick. Never had a pulsar one be overly hard on new cylinders but if a lot of play in the rod it can actually be moving back and forth enough along with air compression thus not letting master pull more fluid from reservoir .
If you have a suction gun even the manual pull plunger ones these can be used on bleed nipple to try pull fluid through enough for master start pumping efficiently in problematic scenarios .

Thanks guys, I'll bleed the master and go from there I'm also going to make a new bleeder up, reckon the one I'm using is shit lol

I also watched the STi Cambodia vid B, it's awesome

Yeh you could bleed some air from master via line union if stubbornly not taking fluid .
Hope you sort it. Was good that Cambodia episode, Utah not bad, would like see those national parks as impressive.

Removed the master this arvo and bench bled it. That made a difference and got the slave moving. I noticed one thing though, the below pic is the with the clutch pedal to the floor under pressure. Now to me it's looks the slave is extending further than it should? I can barely pull that rubber boot over the rod.

I've never bench bled any clutch master and due fitting location on R prefer fitting dry, normally if not taking/moving fluid just loosening line union on slave enough shift some air/fluid and get full fluid in bore, they so simple compared to brake master it uncommon get much issue. Least bleeding side of it resolved.
I would do side by side comparison to old master in terms of fitting position of slave, rod length and machining for seal lip and boot length as well .
Does look a lot of travel to fork in that image, is fork located correct in box, not unmounted/bent/fractured or something .

Chris, worth seeing if you have put that rod in back-to-front, that step-down is too close too the fork.

Nope the fork should be sweet, clutch was working perfectly before I had to replace the master/ slave and haven't touched it. I didn't notice any difference but I'll take another look

splmum wrote:Chris, worth seeing if you have put that rod in back-to-front, that step-down is too close too the fork.

I'll take a look mate, my old one was that way so I just copied it, could have been wrong to start with..

Rod looks right way round in pic as it stepped down end that goes into piston and end to fork is bull nosed tip to fit pressed dimple in fork.
If parts match up fine it could just be your clutch type/release bearing type makes fork position further out .