Clutch pedal

Hello everyone not been on for ages and thought it wa stone I pulled my finger out and got the pulsar up and running again.

It's had a service and is ready to go all accept the clutch pedal, when you push it down it just stays on the floor. Now I'm sure I remember this happening to me before after it had been stood a while and I was told to pump the clutch pedal and rock the car back and forth. Now this is either me being silly and not remembering correctly but I'm sure it worked last time but I've tried it a bit but to no avail. Does any one have any idea what it may be or how to fix it

Hope your all well

Cheers Jamie

Ps I've just spotted a tiny leak under the dash from a rubber boot where the clutch pedal push bit goes in is this the problem?

You want get a helper so can see what happening to slave rod to clutch fork when clutch being pressed. & also check clutch not jammed or returning slowly & have good look for leaks at slave & master & the lines along with fluid check & bleed if nothing obvious spotted. Do you actually have pressure & feel of clutch being pressed/disengaged when press pedal or is the pedal without usual expected resistance ?

Yes looks likely the master cylinder seals are no good, new master cylinder would be good .

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=1618

I have a good used clutch master for sale if you don't want to buy a new one.
Also check the slave to see if the seal around the piston hasnt started to fail.
My pedal was doing the same when mine was fucked.
You can get a cheap service kit for them.

So you might need the clutch master and a slave service kit.

You can get a repair kit for master at about £10 ( it same internals as many hydraulic nissan models besides rear gaitor boot ) I prefer new for master mainly as done once & forgot about for a decade & it not expensive. Slave is easier to keep eye on & remove but personally I would do the lot in one hit including flex pipe so no further problems down the line .

No feel of clutch being pressed to be honest and s slight leak under the dark just at the bulk head and the rubber is perished

And how difficult is this to change

As mentioned above then new master cylinder would be good, I would review slave & flex line if they never been done as parts like this are unreliable at 25yrs old.
I will have look for the master rebuild as done one before with nipart kit but for price of complete new cylinder it hard to recommend unless keeping budget minimal .

Yeah I'll just buy a new master and be done with it, how difficult are they to fit

Fiddly due to lack of space :-D few bits to move to get enough access but if you remove the fork off the end of the cylinder it easier work it out of firewall & out of engine bay from top.
Review slave & flexi line, slave rebuild is about £10 for genuine kit, new slave about same price as master from ICP (blueprint do these too), hose is probably a pain source oem but I just get them made up locally from braided brake line.
Just for info sake I believe nissan master kit is about £20, internals are same as maxima & some other models & pattern kit is £10ish, due to location of master I would do new & if want save money use rebuild kit on slave should you want refresh the whole clutch hydraulics at sensible cost.

Good luck!

Luckily i had exactly the same issue although i didnt have any leaking. Swapped the slave and it was fine again took ages to bleed.

Any one got a guide to doing it at all please

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/191483309650

This one ok

No idea, email them see what make it is, do same with ICP although ICP likely be oem nabco if lucky.
Delphi, Aisin, Ashika, TRW, Japko & few others do this cylinder.
It really not that hard to do, you can remove front engine mount & lower it which opens up more room at rear or remove inlet plenum top. good brake pipe spanner or hex crowfoot heads helps get pipe fitting off without drama. Treat hardline with care as damaging it or the line nut/thread makes hassle.

The hose to the slave Mr b ?

^ What mr johnny sir ?
The short flex hose (54C specific part) is easy make up with brake hose & fittings at any decent parts or hydraulic shop if it perished as cheaper, better & quicker than nissan oem .

Just asking if you were talking about replacing the hose to the clutch slave ? If so we use a front brake braided hose it fits

Ah I see we do much same with that as easy made up from braided brake hose .

Yes if he dose not know anyone or place to crimp on ends its always a good option.
Over here water gets behind seal and rusts the piston on slave seen that a few times and causes solid or pedal to stick

I'm reasonably lucky as have good hydraulic line shop virtually at my door & swage made line like the simple/short clutch one is cheap, can do with screw up brake fittings too which little more cost but means anyone anywhere can knock a new clutch line up if needed .
Slaves seem get scabby in general even here as fluid is corrosive & retains moisture so small amount of bypass fluid behind the boot corrodes badly.
At age of parts now I would do the lot as all new hose master & slave & fluid could be done for about £85 generally & quite easy diy job .
Done a car park rescue on a R at a malaysia show & track day, he hadn't renewed the master but had done the slave & line few weeks before, extra stress from bleeding & clean fluid lead to old seals leaking badly, local club member sourced us a pattern 15.9mm repair kit which was for a stanza or 300zx & just stripped cleaned & fitted the seals to keep him off a flat bed. was bit of road kill type fun but it more fun done in a workshop with cool fan & a cup of iced green tea lol .

I have absolutely no pedal feel on my clutch, I just tried to bleed it by myself this arvo and doesn't seem to get any pressure at all.

Is it old unit and was it working beforehand or this first time bleeding it after build up !
Can be a pain bleed if airlocked but most time on old ones solution will be new clutch master or the repair kit .
repair kit for stanza, 300zx fits besides outer rod gaitor and like 400baht here (about $15AUD) new master almost 3x cost.

Old unit that was working fine mate, as you know my car never moves, just jumped in it one day when I was doing some wiring and noticed the clutch had gone.

This is the one I'm after B?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/152085628165?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT