Cosmic's Winter Pulsar Project

that's A really kind offer there John rep point given!

As Bob mentioned their getting thin on the ground so its good to see this clubs spirit coming through. I wish I had stock piled all the stuff I used to have but got rid of it all as Mom & Dad wanted their garage and shed back as I wasn't living at home either

GTI-R US wrote:Like everyone has said fella unfortunately the engine is as good as scrap. 
O.50 grind is really not worth the trouble or expense doing as it completely removes the nitride surface of the crank journals,So it will not last long at all with a turbo,d engine due to the extreme load the crank is under when turbo starts to spool, if n/a you would get away with it as loading is linear.

Measure your forge pistons and let me know what size they are, if stock or oversized I may possibly have another block you could fit them in but it's the crank which will cost as they are rather hard to obtain in good crack free condition

I totally agree about the grinding. I'd risk going from std to 0.25, not 0.25 to 0.5!
I measured the bore as 87mm, but i'll be happy with std a block, crank and pistons in re-usable condition because i could sell the forged pistons separately, plus I'm not gunning for max power, ~300max will do me.
Cheers

johnboy wrote:
I've got a full engine I've been rebuilding for a couple of years now.... Just waiting to bolt the head back on. (I've even got the gasket) I've mostly forgotten what I've done to it now. I know I looked at the bottom end and it seemed OK and I put new rings in it. Was going to put it in the Rasheen, but changed my mind...
Lost the enthusiasm a bit so I don't reckon I'll ever get it finished now!!
You're welcome to take it away - get it checked out - and then give me what you think it's worth..

Or you can make a second coffee table.

Hi John,
This sounds really promising, do you want the whole engine taking away or would you sell me just the bottom half?
Could you ping me your mobile no please?
Cheers

splmum wrote:Little constellation, but clean up the old block and set it up as a coffee table base.  
You can get a piece of smoked glass cut to size.
Get a coloured light set-up and put it in the crank area and it will glow up through the bore and if you get the lights that change colour it can look pretty effective.
Just a suggestion, otherwise an anchor or as others have said, scrap.

I know you may be saying that in jest, but i actually quite fancy the idea!
Watch this space....

I think I'd rather see the whole lot go - gives me a bit more space in the garage..
Just looking through the receipts and the head was pressure tested and skimmed in 2011, so the engines been laying around a lot longer than I thought..
As said - it will need checking before you use it as I'm no expert - but the last engine I built has done over 5000 miles now.

Mobile number sent.

I'd just like to say a thank you to everyone for your help and support over the last few days, especially John who's letting me purchase one if his engines! I'm very grateful and relieved to have a bit of light at the tunnel.


I've had a better day at the office this evening and removed the water and power steering pumps
I reckon i've got enough room to pull the block away from the gearbox now.
Its funny but now that i can swing a cat in the engine bay, i'm finding it a piece of piss to remove the remaining sub-assemblies.

Glad you have sorted something. I personally would drop the gearbox with the block, will certainly make getting gearbox on new engine easier.

pulsarmoley wrote:Glad you have sorted something. I personally would drop the gearbox with the block, will certainly make getting gearbox on new engine easier.

I'll be stripping down the new engine first because i need to know the condition and size of the crank and pistons.
A rebore might be on the cards too if my 87mm forged pistons can be salvaged. So it should be straight forward to rebuild by reversing what i've done.
Butif i have time, i might Remove the gearbox like you recommend because its leaking somewhere and needs a strip down too.
The problem is my car is in stands in the garage and theres no room on the NS to remove the wheel and drive shafts.

Good to see you moving forward at a nice pace.
Being hands on is always best. You will learn about everything before you have driven the car. So maintanance should be a doddle aftrr.
Have you not thought about dropping the hub out with the gearbox?
I'm sure it would be doable. I have never had to do it that way. But sure you could if need be.

Stu wrote:Good to see you moving forward at a nice pace.
Being hands on is always best. You will learn about everything before you have driven the car. So maintanance should be a doddle aftrr.
Have you not thought about dropping the hub out with the gearbox?
I'm sure it would be doable. I have never had to do it that way. But sure you could if need be.

Mr B also mentioned something similar about removing the wishbone to get a good angle of the dangle.
Once i get the block out i'll give it a go. Tbh they could do with a good clean and paint anyway.

Got the timing chain and guides out, and removed the starter motor this evening.

However i noticed this kink in the oil cooler pipe. I wonder if its responsible for the bearing failures?

Stands a good chance doesn't it. Cant have been very efficient like that.

Even if it didn't, that's not good anyway

just lowered the block, went well with no drama

Fareplay. Thats the first time I have seen the engine removed this way.

looks like your going well fella

car does have an uprated clutch by the looks of it so hopefully that's all good when removed.
Yes the kinked pipe wont help with oil temps so could partly be to blame especially if it was ever used on a track like that

I've stripped the block and not surprisingly there's scuffing on piston no.3, can this be salvaged?



The pics below show the bearings on and around piston 3 are totally fooked!

Hard to tell on piston skirt without actually seeing/touching it, don't look brilliant in pic though, sometimes you can refinish & coat scuffed skirts to bring them back to spec but something I probably wouldn't do unless scenario where hard get new ones .
Very light scuff marks can be refinished but if you lost a lot of material in that area it will be a new pen holder for your desk perhaps ...

I ran my finger nail across the scuffs and it was clicking. After a closer look, scuffing isnt the right word, more like gouges! Totally f@#€ed!


Anyway, thought id remove the PS pump, might as well fit a refurb one while ive got the chance

What make of pistons are they in the end?

are the JE ?

I cant see any part marking on the pistons so i dont know, but Bob reckons they're CP.

I picked up Johns engine yesterday.
Took the missus and Went via Cambridge where we had a very enjoyable afternoon in the botanical gardens. She loves gardening so i scored some valuable brownie points because it was her almera i was using to take the engine back.
By eck, she's a strong lass tho, we both lifted the bottom half out the car this evening without breaking sweat. Must be all the mowing she does.


Anyway i've started stripping it and i should have a good idea of the spec and condition of the crank, pistons etc this weekend.

John, it was a pleasure meeting you. Thank you for your help, tea and advice. You're a true gentlemen and i only hope that one day i can help you in return.

Stripped Johns engine and its all standard and very tidy

Crank is immaculate


Some scoring on main cap shells but nothing spun;




Big end shells look as good as new


I'm Back on track!  

i know im being a bit anal with this post, but thats how i am.

So I measured the crank journal diameters and engine bores
The stamping on the crank states the main journals were originally ground as grade 1 (54.968-54.974)
I measured them as 54.930 so ive lost about 40um due to wear.

The stamping also states the big end journals were originally ground to grade 1 (47.962-47.968),
I measured them as 47.93 so ive lost about 25um from wear.

So they've gone out of spec, but not much. Regrinding to fit 250um undersize shells feels excessive for the sake of 50um wear.
can you buy custom shells at 50um and 25um undersize? I know the answer but just want it confirmed.

Also same goes for bores,
I measured them as dia 86.12 on average

So should i just rebuild with new standard shells and accept the extra clearance (cheapest option)
Or regrind and rebore, fit new pistons with perfect clearance (expensive option)

Good work there. Sorry I cant help you with tolerences and shells but in sure if you remove the rod from the piston on the underside it should have the stamp (thats if you havent already) just noticed in your pics you havent removed rods etc.

Anyway its always a pleasure reading your comical updates so keep them coming :-)

you will always get minimal wear but as long as it is within specification then it will be fine.

With the cylinders I would lightly hone / deglaze them and fit a new set of rings or ideally if you have the money fit a new set of cp 86mm pistons, run engine on mineral based oil for 500/1000 miles to allow rings to cut and bed.

With regard to the crank I would buy a set of Acl bearings for mains but would reuse the Nissan bearings on the bigends as there is next to no wear at all.
Thoroughly clean the block, crank and all components making sure all oil galleries are spotless.
Fit a set of Arp rod bolts, carry out a modification to oil pick up strainer (pm me)
Then fit a Cosworth 1.2mm hg assuming the head or block do not need skimming.
Remove oil pump casing and check condition of rotors and pump cover for any pick up or scoring, also check function of oil pressure relief valve and modify it if any sign of pick up or wear then replace it with new pump.
With a bit of skimping in the correct places you could have yourself a nice little Forged engine for around £7-800 which will add a fair amount of value to the car should you ever sell it or if at a later date you decide to run more power you then have something built you should not have to worry about.