Cosmic's Winter Pulsar Project

He does have a good set of eyes on him, was going to say cylinder 3 looks very wet but didn't notice the crack. But as you mentioned the anti freeze answers that one.

Don't know if you've read my project thread, but I learnt the hard way with my block after buying a standard set of pistons. similar to yourself cylinders looked fine, honing marks, no visible damage, all pistons and ring were intact and didn't point towards any problems, however had the block sent off for peace of mind as couldn't indentify a problem. Turns out one of my cylinders had ovalled and I required the block being machined and had to purchase another set of pistons.

Actually ignore all of that have a set of pistons for sale if your interested lol.

I'm lucky that i work for an engineering firm so i can borrow the inspection equipment from our gage labs so i'll check the bores for tolerance and ovality.
Once i've also checked the pistons i'll let you know if i need replacements.
Thanks for letting me know, its appreciated.

Those pistons you have fitted are not stock they are forged pistons (cp I would say, markings on underside). As said there are cracks in the head and no3 has oil in it as well as the combustion chamber in head so definitely an issue with that cylinder as that was oily prior to dis-assembly.

Don't waste your money getting the head welded as it will not last I assure you (speak from experience, ive around 20 heads here which are cracked and cracks can travel deep when hot), up to you but really needs replacing.
You wont know all until you pull the pistons but you may just get away with a rehone/deglaze then fit new rings assuming cylinder ovality check with dti comes out ok and within spec.

Now on another note, when does your lad want a job

Cyl 3 didnt have oil in but it was some coolant that run down during disassembly, it just looks like oil in the photo.
Having forged pistons is good news which i wasnt expecting, however my spinchter is twitching at the thought of buying a new head.
Welding like you say is definitely a no go.
If the cracks are only hairline and not too deep can they be ground away? This would remove the stress raiser without adversly affecting swirl.

As for the boy wonder, he's available for hire; a quid and a choccy bar is his usual rate.
But he'll insist on advance payment then piss off after 10mins!

YGTI-R US wrote:Those pistons you have fitted are not stock they are forged pistons (cp I would say, markings on underside). As said there are cracks in the head and no3 has oil in it as well as the combustion chamber in head so definitely an issue with that cylinder as that was oily prior to dis-assembly.

Don't waste your money getting the head welded as it will not last I assure you (speak from experience, ive around 20 heads here which are cracked and cracks can travel deep when hot), up to you but really needs replacing.
You wont know all until you pull the pistons but you may just get away with a rehone/deglaze then fit new rings assuming cylinder ovality check with dti comes out ok and within spec.

Now on another note, when does your lad want a job

Do you have any uncracked heads For sale?

I will check for you as weve sold a few lately
take it you just need the head with valves/springs & cam caps?

GTI-R US wrote:I will check for you as weve sold a few lately
take it you just need the head with valves/springs & cam caps?j

Yes, just the head with valves/springs and caps thanks.

SR20VET time?

Lol

Cosmic73 wrote:

GTI-R US wrote:I will check for you as weve sold a few lately
take it you just need the head with valves/springs & cam caps?j

Yes, just the head with valves/springs and caps thanks.

leak test the head first if you work for an engineering company, see what the results are with that and if its letting by then I do have one if needed.
Trouble is the results are not always accurate as when its torqued down and under extreme heat the crack can then open up.
We have a car in at the mo that has a cracked head on no4 cylinder and its dropping oil in to the cylinder when up to temp (first thought it was a stem seal) its getting down between the outer valve guide and block casting on closer examination can see where its cracked at top and bottom but hard to see when its cold

GTI-R US wrote:

Cosmic73 wrote:

GTI-R US wrote:I will check for you as weve sold a few lately
take it you just need the head with valves/springs & cam caps?j

Yes, just the head with valves/springs and caps thanks.

leak test the head first if you work for an engineering company, see what the results are with that and if its letting by then I do have one if needed.
Trouble is the results are not always accurate as when its torqued down and under extreme heat the crack can then open up.
We have a car in at the mo that has a cracked head on no4 cylinder and its dropping oil in to the cylinder when up to temp (first thought it was a stem seal) its getting down between the outer valve guide and block casting on closer examination can see where its cracked at top and bottom but hard to see when its cold

 Yeah, i'm taking it to a local head engineering works tomorrow morning and pressure test is first thing on the list.
If it goes tits up ill chase you up for the head.

Removed the sump and tried to rock the big ends to see how bad the bearings are.
All solid except cyl 3 which rocked about 1/4mm!

So i'm thinking seriously fooked bearing right. It turns out the nuts had just backed off a bit. i nipped them all up, and hey presto, solid.

Anyway, i'll still undo the whole lot and inspect the bearings to make sure.

Anyay, quick question;
I know the crank caps are machined with the block as an assembly and must go back in the correct order, but does the same apply to the con rod end caps?
 
Cheers

just realised the big end caps are stamped on their sides 1-4,

Bugger, shit, knob, twat, arse, f*Ck, COCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
No, I don't have tourettes, but just found out I've spun no.3 big end bearing and no. 3 main cap bearing,










To quote Renton in Trainspotting 'oh God tommy, ah feel sick'

Not good :-/
Looks like you will need stock up on mars bars for the lad to get engine out for you.
with head condition & now state of crank & caps you would be best sourcing another full block .
That must of sounded like a french diesel lubricated with olive oil :-O
think we can confirm noise was bottom end not valve train ...

Yep, i'll be stocking up on the mars bars and Yorkshire tea to sort this mess out.
I foresee a lot of staring at the engine bay scratching my fat arse, maybe the odd blubber if no ones looking.
Thing is its totally stripped to the block and on stands, and i've no room to remove the drive shafts, so i'm backed into a corner and removing the gearbox was the last thing i wanted to do, but....

I had a brainwave! It's not much more work to remove the WP and front cover. Once done does anyone think its possible to slide just the block out, leaving the geabox resting on a stand?

Once removed i plan on regrinding the crank, but i noticed 0.25 undersized bearings are already fitted? Is it safe to go to 0.5? Im worried in case i grind through a hardened outer skin, i heard the crankshaft journals are nitrided? Although nitriding is v hard, its all quite a thin layer.

Good luck mate, why have you got no room to remove the drive shafts? Is it that tight! Can you get it up high to wiggle them out etc or cant you even get around to remove the wheels.

Its in the garage, passenger side is shunted right up against the wall to give me some space on the driver side, So the passanger wheel is not accessable.
If worst comes to worst i could lower it, push it on to the drive, jack it up, remove drive shafts and push it back into garage.
But i reckon with the front housing off, therell be a couple of inches clearance, i've got nothing to loose by trying..

Just dropped off the head at the reconditioners and the bloke reckons all jap heads have hairline cracks and not to worry too much. Just gotta wait for the pressure and valve leak test results....

Crank is more than likely scrap then if ground once already.
I don't use blocks/caps once spun bad as yours, same for big ends.
Not a fan of cracks in head like you got but could be used if have to .
I think you would be wise finding another engine & refresh/check that & maybe add the forged pistons to it if suitable.
If you limited on space pulling wishbone off front/rear mount allows shafts fair bit of flex to get out so maybe able do that from underneath along with rod end !
you should be able shunt car a bit on trolley jack, just jack up central on front support bar clear stands & pull it carefully to one side, i've done that a fair bit without bother but need nice jack with decent wheels. could get/knock up some dolley plates for front wheels from salvaged supermarket trolleys :-)

Yeah shunting about on a big jack is a reasonable way of doing things, I have done it several times as with yourself I have a narrow garage (Bob will testify to that lol)

As said it maybe worth getting the feelers out for another engine as yours sounds like its been through the mill a bit. Hopefully you didn't pay too much for the car so it deserves a nice engine!

I paid £1800 for it, spares or repair and have only forked out for a turbo rebuild up till now.
I reckon it'll be worth about £5k once its up and running, which gives me quite a bit of margin, but i'm not doing it for the money, just love the car, always have.

I think you're right Shroom, i need a new block and crank, if anyone has one please could they message me?

The forged pistons should be good & new ring set is cheap so worth measuring up to see if standard or bored. even if did not reuse them yourself they should sell easily.

Like everyone has said fella unfortunately the engine is as good as scrap. 
O.50 grind is really not worth the trouble or expense doing as it completely removes the nitride surface of the crank journals,So it will not last long at all with a turbo,d engine due to the extreme load the crank is under when turbo starts to spool, if n/a you would get away with it as loading is linear.

Measure your forge pistons and let me know what size they are, if stock or oversized I may possibly have another block you could fit them in but it's the crank which will cost as they are rather hard to obtain in good crack free condition

Little constellation, but clean up the old block and set it up as a coffee table base.
You can get a piece of smoked glass cut to size.
Get a coloured light set-up and put it in the crank area and it will glow up through the bore and if you get the lights that change colour it can look pretty effective.
Just a suggestion, otherwise an anchor or as others have said, scrap.

^ Good idea that
have seen tables made from a block & they do look good if cleaned right up .
cheap to do & a cool novelty item, will have a go at one myself I think ...

I've got a full engine I've been rebuilding for a couple of years now.... Just waiting to bolt the head back on. (I've even got the gasket) I've mostly forgotten what I've done to it now. I know I looked at the bottom end and it seemed OK and I put new rings in it. Was going to put it in the Rasheen, but changed my mind...
Lost the enthusiasm a bit so I don't reckon I'll ever get it finished now!!
You're welcome to take it away - get it checked out - and then give me what you think it's worth..

Or you can make a second coffee table.