Anybody spot whats wrong in this pic?

Im probably wrong but your missing the rear belt in the picture and the pulley doesn't look right, has it separated?

Bottom pulley has separated

Moley and Rob have got it. Crank pulley has separated.

So, who's going to be first to give me a how-to to replace it then?

I got it right, do I win I prize?

Cant help as never done one. Is it not as straight forward as to remove the bolt holding it then remove pulley?

Pretty much that easy ... then fit new one and belts

Now that does sound easy! Is there enough room to remove it without needing to drop the engine on it's mounts? Does it need a separate oil seal?

And does Bob have any crank pulleys lying around? lol

EPP in US did have limited amount of new ones, I had one for around £100.
part number was 12303-54C00
If you lucky bob may have something decent but at 20+ yrs old they mostly going be close to same issue you already got .

Yes have got one in good order if needed just drop me a pm

I know im guna get pulled up on this but my outer ring was spinning so timing mark was way out.all i did was tack weld a washer from inner pulley to outer ring as a tempary job but it worked fine and i never got round to changing it.i was told it had the rubber to remove a bit of the shock off the air con but mine has air con removed so now it only drives alternator so no harm done.i found TDC and re marked the pully,set timing light to +20 and job done.as said above there all 20+ years now so ust all be getting ready

Good bit of british history in those pulleys, original design & patent was done by Lanchster brothers who had engine building company, they designed the harmonic damper pulley to remove vibration stress from the crank, also they made the twin balancer shafts & mitsubishi bought that patent & you can see the shaft principle in many of their engines inc 4g63, other companies like lancia paid for patent use from mitsubishi.
Every engine crank has specific rpm points that creates a cross of vibration frequencies that can be very destructive, this vibration/resonance is always worse opposite end to main load which is flywheel, the crank pulley rubber absorbs the resonance & the rubber turns it to heat via flexing.
Pretty cool british engineering ...

Bones, now you know the real reason for the rubber in the pulley sounds like you'd better see if Bob's got another one for sale..

You beat me to it mr b .... although my answer would of been fair less complex than that ....

Oh bugger lol problem i had was i came across 2 more but they were both the same.

I changed crank crank oil seal while i was at it. Only cheap so made sence. Be carefull getting it off as its easy to break the edge off the pulley.think there is a how to that bob did

To be fair it not huge issue & modern engines have far less vibrations, few people use the solid alloy ones without issue but personally I prefer the damper pulley.
Is a cock finding decent used ones these days, best hunting round for decent priced new OEM as job done once & for another 20 years that way, not sure if any companies in UK do them refurbished ! basically new rubber core !
Ideally want a puller for easy/safe removal, prying them off can as you say chip pulley edge or even tip of prybar can puncture oil-pump housing :-/
Bob done how-to on removal & a quick home brew pulley, I put a link to a cheap pulley on eBay in tools section.

Well if I had not seen it with my own eyes I would not belive it I seen bob remove one by pulling the pully with his hands and it had been on a while I removed bolt so I know he never slackened it. I was amazed speechless