Need help Whats Wrong ???

Right then fella's in stuck can't understand why my clutch wasn't working ...

Anymore details sam ????

You forgot the pic Sam lol

I've just posted aloud of photos where are they and some text where's it all gone ?

Lol i was also expecting a pic but thought it maybe my page didnt load properly ....

Stu can you put the photos up ? My phones playing up most of spent to much time next to the Gtir

Yeah I will grab them.and post them for you lol

Whats the symptoms sam while i wait for the pics lol ....

Pics are up no mad ^^ lol thanks stu

Erm i know expert but i think you may need a new clutch lol ... has it fooked the cover plate aswell judging by the gauges in it .... thats bad luck that mate ...still could of been worse ...

The cover is fine I'm keeping it and I'll get a stage 3or 4 disc to go with it at a later stage when I go for mad power if I ever get round to it hoping to catch my mate up that has just built an 750 bhp golf mk4

HAHA told you, got that one spot on

That exedy is a fake, I can tell them a mile off now and they all do the same thing, cheap fake crap

The cover plate I'm keeping as its one leg killer really heavy so I think that could be a genuine helix which is was I was told was in it when I bought the car with an exedy organic disc and an exedy paddle disc (triangular shape ) in the boot which I used till it was knackard them put the organic disc back in.

Can't you have the paddle re done Sam. There are companies that re surface them.

Either way been looking and thinking about putting a spec clutch in it stage 2 or 3 not sure yet

Stu wrote:Can't you have the paddle re done Sam. There are companies that re surface them.

Over here no wouldn't trust any one and d t won't to think of the price lol

Mine did exactly the same as that!! Pretty sure mine was a genuine one though....but it was in it when I bought the car

That clutch looks very familiar oh wait it's the exact same clutch as mine was with the same damage.





As bob said that a fake chuck it in the bin I brought a proper exedy clutch and the friction plate is much bigger than the fake on.

I would get a Competition Clutch stage 3 as they very decent & take power & abuse, way springs mounted far better as very hard for them pop out. good design clutches with good quality & sensible prices if shop about.
helix clutch option for R are not same as use to be & not worth the current price either, exedy ok for lower power road use if get original 6 spring versions but they don't take enthusiasm or power of a similar spec CC .
What's stamped on your cover, does it have helix or daikin stamped on it ?

Heres one on a customers car we literally removed on Friday. Probably seen around 20-30 of these fakes failing in a way I feel sorry for Exedy as its giving them a bad name with people who don't know whats what, they just see the name EXEDY and think no good crap lol, but the difference in build quality between a genuine and fake one are night and day and can be clearly seen.

As you can see this is in its early stages of failure where outer spring housing has split.
The clutch centre spline (fixed to inner part of spring retaining plate) is all loose and slapping about this will just put more pressure on spring retainers till it eventually ends up like the others above ie complete failure




Now look at Supernovas one above (driveplate centre) totally different altogether

Looking at getting a spec clutch either stage 2 or 2+ as stage 3 is à padle And i dont want one lol the reason why spec is because i çan pay it off monthly

This is wat I'm looking at what you fella's think http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/spec-clutch-1845.html

All your clutches are covered here>
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4901p15-which-clutch-have-you-got-and-how-good-is-it
Spec 2+ not bad option, would avoid the spec 2
For people who think exedy organic would suit them they would be best going for CC organic carbon kevlar as cheaper & better.
For those wanting something that can handle 400hp & be street slippable then the CC stage 3 8pad full disc is great option/cost and good on road, track & 1/4mile.
The all transmission friendly too & have sensible pedal operating load.
One easiest way spot fake exedy is most have 4 springs not 6 in friction plate .

Mr B wrote:All your clutches are covered here>
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4901p15-which-clutch-have-you-got-and-how-good-is-it
Spec 2+ not bad option, would avoid the spec 2
For people who think exedy organic would suit them they would be best going for CC organic carbon kevlar as cheaper & better.
For those wanting something that can handle 400hp & be street slippable then the CC stage 3 8pad full disc is great option/cost and good on road, track & 1/4mile.
The all transmission friendly too & have sensible pedal operating load.
One easiest way spot fake exedy is most have 4 springs not 6 in friction plate .

Take note of this, I have a stage 4 6-puk. It's basically an on/off switch but I fricking love it noisey as hell and anyone who's not been in it before gets whiplash moving from traffic lights  
I'll likely keep it as it'll be raced and rally'd but as said, usually (manufacturer dependent) 2 is for light mods, (2+ sounds like it'd be here in the 3 group) 3 is usually modified/track and still has slip, 4 is noisey on/off for race and 5 is full race/drag

Demon tweeks - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/clutch-kits/car/nissan/sunny/1993/2-0-gti-r-n14
They got pay monthly items too.