Hard brake pedal

Didnt gaz have the same issue wich turned out to be rear caliper seized cams ???

As said before stu........it's your master cylinder

They seize inside and when you push the brake pedal it pushes the rod from servo assist to the master cylinder but if  Pistons seized inside it cannot move sufficiently enough to allow adequate force to the calipers and pads to stop the vehicle. even though it may appear you have a good pedal its a false elision.

Common prob on these cars with old cylinders so we check them out prior to selling them

GTI-R US wrote:As said before stu........it's your master cylinder

They seize inside and when you push the brake pedal it pushes the rod from servo assist to the master cylinder but if  Pistons seized inside it cannot move sufficiently enough to allow adequate force to the calipers and pads to stop the vehicle. even though it may appear you have a good pedal its a false elision.

Common prob on these cars with old cylinders so we check them out prior to selling them

Do i take it off and strip it down? Or is it a replacement job?

Open bleed nipples & test, if still real stiff then indeed likely be master cylinder & need removing for checking.

Mr B wrote:Open bleed nipples & test, if still real stiff then indeed likely be master cylinder & need removing for checking.

I will still check the bleed nipple test.

Sounds like a similar problem I had on my old n14 4 door, replaced the master cylinder and happy days

Did the bleed nipple test and pedal pushes to the floor with ease.
So it isn't seized.
There's no build up of vacuum tho and my idle is still up and down when cold.
So thanks for all the advice..
gonna buy another servo and swap them over.
Hopefully kill two birds with one stone

^ Fingers crossed it cures idle & brakes then, my money was on servo, pretty easy & cheap grab another one.

Do i need to remove the plenum to get the servo out?
Its gonna be a couple of weeks before i can sort another one out.
I'm spent out after buying the car. Paying insurance and service parts etc.
Back to being skint again

I think you probably would, will be a pig of a job! Best of luck!

How much pedal travel should there be ideally? Can't say I have a huge amount, maybe a inch of easy travel then firms up. Brakes are excellent though.

Cant you just undo the engine mount and jack the engine up that way your past the inlet ...

Drop engine down & pull forward & that will allow room get it out but if Y bracket off it not hard get inlet off if handy with the spanner ...
Be sure it the booster, could do with vacuum gauge on brake booster pipe just be sure it getting good vacuum, also vacuum test the servo & see if leaking, so far everything is pointing to the booster & indeed it could be linked to your idle issue.
What you can do is remove & block/plug that booster vacuum pipe proper & see if idle issue goes away ;-) if so that would point at booster diaphragm leaking or booster seal leaking & be pretty conclusive evidence ...
Would of thought someone would do you a booster for like £20 ...

I have removed the pipe and blocked up both ends and it makes the iddle worse lol
Im confused now haha
I plugged it back together and the iddle was better.

Since i have been messing and checking the brakes. It seams fine now. The pedal isnt as hard and you can feel the brakes working now.

Maybe bleeding the brakes sorted an issue with a sticky master cylinder?, at least it's working OK now. Just ensure your brakes are bled out fully as if you have any air in the system your pedal will not feel as hard anyway.
Do the brakes feel any more effective than previous?

I have only pulled it backwards and forwards on my drive. But it definitely feels better.
Will take it up the road tomorrow.

Sounds promising, I hope it's sorted.

Stu wrote:I have removed the pipe and blocked up both ends and it makes the iddle worse lol
Im confused now haha
I plugged it back together and the iddle was better.

Only need plug the hose end you pull off the Booster with like a large bolt & a clamp.
How idle worse !?
Is it very low & almost stalling ?
Is it higher but stable without fluctuating !?
Have come across odd Booster & BOV leak faults where owners improved idle by adjusting idle screws & then when fix/replace part idle well out & needs resetting.
Also want check your Booster again with the 2 mot style tests as if not right it will be a fail :-/