bad mot this time meh

so yeah got my car in for mot, quite gutted really .

Leaking exhaust
outer cv boot
trackrod end
sidelights dont work
and welding to my rear arch, arch is so badly rusted that its affecting my suspension for some reason

seriously thinking of just selling up once this mot is done as the last few months have been an utter nightmare with this car

All sounds minor work besides the welding, corrosion to main body chassis structure or near suspension mounting is failure.
Outer CV boot is about £6 for decent one, track rod end not expensive & would expect exhaust leak & sidelights easy fix.

Thats not too bad, i'm sure you could do most yourself. And to be honest ive had newer cars fail on a lot more than that.

yeah cv boots i done lastnight on 1 side of the car so pretty familiar with the job, thankfully its only the outer so shouldnt take long, its the welding which is my worry, sidelights i cant seem to fix, last guy i had it in to fixed done half a job, replaced a connector and charged me £60 :/ and that only fixed half the issue, ive had this problem before and another place replaced a relay and it sorted the issue but im useless with electrics.

Don't sell... Its not a lot of work, just find someone that will sort rear arch for a good price

seems to be one thing after another lately, cars off the road more than its on the road and im running out of funds to keep fixing the thing, love it to bits but its raping my pocket big style lately

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170273665041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

so spoke to mot tester and basically is the exterior arch, they can weld themselves but wont touch exterior panels so need a bodyshop for it. ill post a picture of the arch tonight, didnt know exterior rot was a mot failure.

is the link the correct arch for the drivers side, seems obvious as its rh but just confirming.

and they cant fix my mongoose exhaust because its stainless, i didnt think they were?

You can get them delivered for £25 from here>
http://www.carz2.co.uk/nissan-sunny-iii-hatchback-n14-199010-to-199507-1628a-15591-c.asp
I would speak to body shop first as some may prefer make there own repair section.
cv boot & track rod won't cost £15 the pair for parts. ICP (http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=1446&cat=87&sub=119&sec=1184&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=) had track rod a less than £9 & normally ICP do pretty decent parts too.
Your mongoose is stainless, should be repairable pending on where it blowing & could be as simple as new gasket or tweaking a joint, even a replacement section won't be expensive as many used mongoose bits around I expect.
Even a bodge with chemical metal could get it through MOT if proper repair going eat too much money or you not got time find cost effective better repair.
Even sidelight issue probably minor for someone good with car electrics. best looking at it yourself a bit & perhaps posting more info on current side light function so people here can post some advise/help perhaps.
Indeed arch repair will not be super cheap for decent job but try few bodyshops as prices vary by as much as double.

yeah i looked into the arch a while back and one guy quoted me £600 a side and another place quoted me around £280, i guess once its done its pretty much a decent shell,

he didnt say much just the it was the centre section blowing excessively and couldnt weld because it was stainless steel.

missus gets trade as she works in halfords so i got the boot and trackrod end for £14 i dont mind these little things i just know im gonna be paying about £300 for the arch to be fixed.

Thanks for the links much appreciated

Not much you can do about cost of arch unless got family or friends in a bodyshop, decent worthwhile long term fix require bit of expertise & some of your cash. About 300 to 400 pounds sounds about right for respectable job although without seeing the arch it hard to say for sure. Really worth making effort with bodyshop as picking right one not just based on cost will be big factor in your R ownership as you don't want to be revisiting the arch in couple of years due to sloppy repair route.
have a look at your centre section & see where it blowing as could be simple & if needs welding the bodyshop guys might zap that up for small tip will doing arch, standard decent mig & operator will weld stainless ok.
expect few members on here will have mongoose spares too if needed ...

Can you put a picture up of said arch, rest seems a doddle really

Don't give up yet that's not a bad list as long as the welding is ok. My Fabia VRS just failed it's MOT today and I really thought it was going pass. Both front wishbone rear bushes, both drop links and a cv gaitor so its not just the older cars.

ok the exhaust is unlikely to be blowing through corrosion as its a stainless system so must just be a gasket which is a simple fix but if by chance the exhaust is holed somewhere then I will get another system out to you if needed but would be far simpler to repair the blow.

now with regard to rust on the arches...............if its external then he can only fail the car through having jagged edges which are unsafe to pedestrians, the outer skin is not structural so as Darren says would like to see a pic of them and exactly why hes failed them. technically you can just put gaffer tape over them to get it through the mot, as long as there are no exposed sharp edges he cant fail it then sort them out properly at your own leisure once you have the mot

the rest is a doddle

I would say from remarks in first post arch was failed due to corrosion going into sill end and/or inner arch and that falling into structural distance rules for suspension mount areas & seatbelt mounts.
Should be able tell more from actual mot fault code & remark on failure slip.
If sharp jagged edges it will state that via mot fault code & description.
I would assume exhaust is joint blowing or cracked flange joint or silencer weld joint.

See if you can get a picture of the rust .... if its end sill wich is a common place for them to go as ive done three pulsars with the same its just as easy to make up a couple of plates and buzz it up ....

so its down on the mot sheet as suspension mounting but the bodyshop guy had a good look around it and cant see anything the interferes with the suspension, mot guy said it was the inner and outer arch as its rotted all the way through.



sills are pretty fine to be honest, only the front "jacking point" is flattened (i know its not a jacking point but everyone seems to use them for that )


i havent looked at the exhaust but he did say it needs welding, maybe its damaged at a join where the flange is, i dunno i did get an advisory last year for it but never got round to doing anything about it.

track rod end and cv boot i can deal with as ive actually just done the otherside so know whats involved, can never seem to get the trackrod end to unscrew from the shaft though but ill try again.

thanks for the help guys

Honestly it has to be a bit of a dick of a tester to fail car on arches it's written that corrosion within 30cm of suspension and  seat belts mountings seriously  affecting strength etc so you must have big hole or something

 http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s06000101.htm

Pop to Peterborough I'll test it properly for you

Well that is a big hole...

Reckon you would be better of buying yourself a welder sye .... i have seen worse than that and welded alot worse the bad bit is by the time you cut it out and weld its on show so will need re painting ...

That's not a fail on the rust there. I would protest it. If the arch trim was insecure & it had sharp edges he is in his rights to fail it.
If you like the car it's defo worth getting the arch done etc

Always nice to know a good Friend who can make the car pass it's mot without it turning up lol

So this isnt really a fail i dont know what else could have failed for as the guy was underneath looking everywhere for corrosion in the turrets etc, Guy at bodyshop just looked at the hole and said straight away thats a fail because of the sharp edges amd the corrosion through the inner arch, if i was going to fix it id rather it done properly as ive never used a welder and dont fancy ruining it even more but dont want to spend 300 notes fixing the wrong part, nothing was marked with chalk so the guy wasnt too sure

GTIR James wrote:That's not a fail on the rust there. I would protest it. If the arch trim was insecure & it had sharp edges he is in his rights to fail it.
If you like the car it's defo worth getting the arch done etc

Not really, inner arch skin is considered more structural & I suspect if you prod inner skin 2 or 3 inches up from arch trim edge it pretty rotted & falls into 30cm distance of suspension (strut top mount) & seatbelt mount.
If only outer panel they normally leave it unless sharp edges or trim hanging loose.
The 30cm rule works as a radial sphere from centre area of corrosion, kind MOT man may mark similar as advisory if not so obviously visually messy & inner arch pretty solid besides the very edge lip.

Mr B wrote:

GTIR James wrote:That's not a fail on the rust there. I would protest it. If the arch trim was insecure & it had sharp edges he is in his rights to fail it.
If you like the car it's defo worth getting the arch done etc

Not really, inner arch skin is considered more structural & I suspect if you prod inner skin 2 or 3 inches up from arch trim edge it pretty rotted & falls into 30cm distance of suspension (strut top mount) & seatbelt mount.
If only outer panel they normally leave it unless sharp edges or trim hanging loose.
The 30cm rule works as a radial sphere from centre area of corrosion, kind MOT man may mark similar as advisory if not so obviously visually messy & inner arch pretty solid besides the very edge lip.

I agree with that i haven't seen pictures before posting lol... I don't want to look like dodgy tester or something but on mot course they were always repeating is it structural is it defo fail if you're not sure just advise... saying that loads of mot garages want more jobs so they might be more strict... but to be honest fail or not i would just do this arch as it don't look good mate

A lot depends on your relationship with test garage too, as if use same one regularly & they know & see some prep work done on car & previous advisory items been done they more likely slip some things to advisory as they confident in you maintaining the car.
When they see previous advisories totally ignored or very amateur repairs they less likely be helpful as have less confidence in your vehicle maintenance.
UK MOT is pretty lapse to be honest & if you know the rules & have a fair MOT guy some pretty awful crap can get an MOT no problem.