Car running like a sack of shit!

Just been to get some petrol in the R and the misfire has got worse. It's still only every now and then but it feels more severe than before.

I noticed when idling my AFR gauge is rapidly fluctuating between 14 and 16 ish and it used to be fairly stable readings on idle.

I can feel the misfire now when when driving at part throttle.

Also sometimes when I come on boost it will hold back a little but only every now and then. I just tried to put my foot down and when I came on boost it held back severely for a few seconds as if it didn't want to go anywhere and then it went ok after a second or two, I've noticed this holding back when coming on boost from time to time before but it's never held back that bad before   

No fault codes coming up when I do fault code check.

Leaning out then, check all vacums etc bill one may have come off??

I'm going to have to go over the damn thing with a fine tooth comb, I've checked the vac pipes more times than I want to think about lol I could do with a way of pressure testing it to try to find any leaks

It dosent seem to be running crazy lean on my AFR gauge but it's kind of difficult to monitor it when driving, it weird how it's fluctuating like crazy at idle though.

Im sick of seeing it at the moment so I'll go out and check it over later or tomorrow. I do love it but it seriously pisses me off at times

Sounds to me like you have a weak or bad spark, OR quite likely getting spark blow out on boost. That would explain holding back and your afr's going mad.

Assuming you have the correct plugs we all run, try gap them down 0.1mm - Do you know what they are gapped at now?

if you cant fix it bill then drop it down to me and il sort it for you

but try fix it yourself first as ive not got a lot of time now im on my lonesome

You wont get any fault code readings from a misfire generally as the ecu isnt intelligent enough on these to detect cylinder misfire.

Plugs are gapped to 0.7mm if anything I think it runs better with a larger plug gap. I've tried changing most of the ignition parts and I'm running out of ideas now. I run NGK bcr8es by the way.

Bob I'm seriously thinking about dropping it off with you it's just the cost of fuel because you are a good way from me but if I can't sort it out myself then I think that's what I'll do.

I'll try changing anything else I can think of but if I have no joy then I will arrange to bring it down for you to look at.

To me it sounds like an fpr fault! Check the hose on it for splits...

What leads are you using tho and how old is the rotor arm and cap?
Have you looked to see if the screw is still in rotor arm?
What plugs and what are they gapped to?

Also the ignition amp is a common fault so if you can swap that over to a known good one.

Brand new dizzy cap and rotor arm, I'm using stock leads but I've tried swapping them over with another se of stock leads and it seems the same. I've tried changing the amp I think? Is that the transistor that connects to the coil? If so I tried changing that over too

the holding back could be det sensor, it wont always come up on fault code test

Your a memeber of the AA aint ya?
Phone em up and tell them it's missfiring on your drive

You might just get somone who knows his stuff

The ignition amp is to the side of the dizzy. It's clamped to the side of the block. They often get hot and cause running issues!

When you put the inlet manifold back on, did you put a new crush gasket on? An air leak there can cause problems.

Aa knowing something about a Gtir? Doubt it lol

I had thought about the det sensor but it's not showing any fault codes at all.

The holding back is a random occurrence, it only does it from time to time and always when coming on boost. It's asif you hear the turbo spool up and it's making boost but it's asif it making less power than before it was on boost if that makes sence? Again it only does it from time to time. Sometimes it holds back for a second or two coming on boost, other times it dosent hold back at ll

I've never had the inlet mani off stu. This engine came with plenum and throttle bodies and everything attatched

Boost solenoid?

I don think its the boost solenod but I'm not sure on that one. I'll try removing it to see if it still holds back at all but I'm sure it used to do it even when using a bleed valve

Hardy172cup wrote:Brand new dizzy cap and rotor arm, I'm using stock leads but I've tried swapping them over with another se of stock leads and it seems the same. I've tried changing the amp I think? Is that the transistor that connects to the coil? If so I tried changing that over too

I have just sorted my misfire out changed plugs no change   ordered a new set of blueprint leads and hey presto no misfire and pulls all the way through the rev range no issues  

I also tried different sets of leads but still had a misfire.

Got the leads from here only took 2 days to arrive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150717107568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Thanks for that spike, I'll try a new set of leads, can't hurt anything

I've just pulled the carbon canister off of its bracket and if I shake it I can here something rattling around inside. Is that normal?

My old pulsar developed a fault similar to this, had a bunch of people look over it and couldn't find anything! Until one day when I was having a look, I noticed a nut had come off one of the bolts on the inlet plenum, so was obviously drawing in air, in short what ever it is it will be something of nothing! So don't give up!

Maybe the sensor is temperamental?? With a metre you can check it that's what I did!

But it's not easy to get to. I had the original y brackets still in place. Made it a really difficult job

If you can get to it once connected and earthed correctly. U can back probe the plug and get a reading of 2.5 volts.

My faulty sensor showed zero.

Check your rotor arm is tight in the dizzy as can cause intermittent power if loose as the ignition timing keeps changing.

I'll check the dizzy and rotor arm out make sure all is fixed on properly.

Where Is the DET sensor located?

On the back of the block below water pipes i think?? Someone may correct lol