Anybody running aem v.2 ecu?

You're thoughts pros/cons?

Well,they have a standard plug straight in version, not with a patch harness like Haltech or Link, which is nice.
A lot of tuners, at least here in the US, are very familiar with AEM tuning software, and it's rather easy to tune from what I've heard.

If you're still going to use the stock distributor, you'll need to purchase the AEM trigger wheel that goes inside for the ignition signal to the ECM. It IS upgradable to Coil on plug with a P11 CAS setup, or you can just use your distributor as a CAS. There's 3 empty holes in the ECU plug that can be configured to run 3 extra coils to do this.

Only negatives I can see is the price point, it's pretty much the same as any high end stand alone, and they're not water proof, or even water resistant, so that means they have to be mounted in the stock location,

I myself want to go with a Haltech elite series, as they are waterproof and the ECU can be mounted in the engine compartment if so desired.

LINK are available as a plugin. The LINK board fits inside the STD ecu case.

ducie54 wrote:LINK are available as a plugin. The LINK board fits inside the STD ecu case.

Yea you're right, I see they did a bit of updating. Bloody expensive though.

I just don't really see the need for a full standalone unless you're building a dedicated race car, or something off the wall with a ton of add on sensors, Like yours Nigel.

For your average street driven car, a Nistune or Nismotronic system will suffice just fine. I would pick Nismotronic if I did it over again. I have Nistune now and it can't do some of the things that Nismotronic can, like MAP/IAT support.

I think it just gives me peace of mind. If you invest say 2 grand in building the engine then you want to protect you're investment. There are some pretty good ecu's for a "reasonable" price. What i like about Haltech elite 1500 is that all options are unlocked, then theres syvecs s6, liferacing f88r, Link g4, roughly same price range. I think the more ecu can do is a good thing.

Whatever you get just make sure your local dyno guy is happy to use it.

Have a look at HPA academy there is alot of videos in regards to doing the basics yourself. No matter what the ecu is the principals are the same.

I agreed you don't need to go out and buy the bees knees, but sometimes it's cheaper to buy an ecu that doesn't require another inputs. Like a secondary wideband controller or boost controller.

I'm a big fan of LINK and if you have any questions about them I'm happy to help.

I've heard good things about Emerald ECU's too. A guy at my work has one on his 400bhp+ Mk1 golf GTI (turbo'd) track car.
Not sure how easy it would be fitting it to an R though...

I use my distributor as a CAS, didn't see the point in spending extra money there. There are lots of options available, but as nigel said its helpful using an ECU your tuner is comfortable with. IMO i like using a flying lead harness as its an opportunity to replace the old OEM harness, clean up wiring and one less problem eliminated but it does cost extra time and potentially money compared to plug in options.