Turbo

Any one got a spare turbo lying about in working order and cheap:) so I can rule out if its my turbos that's fooked after boost smoke

why not try and work out if it is your turbo first by comp testing the engine first off and seeing what the readings are!
also remove the turbo intake and grab hold of the impellor and see how much end float is in it and side to side movement as that's another good teller of a knackered tubby.

theres no such thing as a cheap good turbo.
if you buy cheap then chances are that's knackered too as good ones now fetch good money.

In the process off removing the turbo at the moment as for side to side movement it's about 1mm each way same for in and out movement I'm going to take the turbo off and inspect it and the only other thing I can think off is it has bore was it was extremely over fuelling when I bought the car due to a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator not set up properly so could be fuel in the oil oil smells like fuel too but level is ok

Bore wash *

possibly
when you remove the ex manifold check for wet ports on the head, if one of them is oily and wet then the problem will be on that particular cylinder.
the ports should be dry and sooty

Timing chain side across to the right off the engine

Cyl 1 140psi cly2 140psi cyl3 140psi cyl4 85psi little bit oil down the port 140 psi piston ring gone?

Compression test btw

Thanks Scott

cracked rigland on no4 piston scott theres your problem

Engine out for me but I have a forged engine lined up:)

yep can be done with engine in situ but if you have another lump to go in guess it doesn't matter anyway

Is it a case off head off sump off undo big end caps and push the pistons up? Then change the rings etc? I've not bought the other engine as of yet I was only thinking if the engine had to come out then just buy it and stick it in less time and hassle but if it can be done in place might be a lot easer as the radiator ad turbo/manifold is already off so not much more to get the head off to be honest

Yes mate sump off head off jobbie .

I've got the same problem with cylinder one being down on compression I'm buying another engine and swapping them other then the plan is to rebuild the old engine that's down on comp and buy some forged goodies wile I'm at it.
It's going to take me ages because I'm on a tight budget that's why I'm getting the other engine to use for now that way I can rebuild the old one in my own time lol

I'm on a tight budget to but it's cheaper to do the rings than get another engine I've got the chance off a fully rebuilt engine top to bottom forged pistons knife edge crank up rated crank shaft etc for £1200 still needs to be run in

Id snap hes arm off at that price ...

yep assuming its not a mickeymouse built engine that's a very good price

If I could get a good forged engine at that price I would snap it up in a heartbeat providing its not a mickey mouse job as bob says

It's a proper engine rebuild company who has it it's lay there for 2.5 years now here's just looking for a quick sale

Do you know the spec of it scott ?

It was one of my mates was telling me I don't know the full spec bit could find out

also be carefull if its been laid up for any amount of time as the rings have a habit of seizing on forged pistons when left

See when I do the rings in my pistons is it a case of piston out old rings off clean up new rings back on or do I need to re hone the bores aswell? Where's the best place to buy the rings nissan only parts or a place on the net?

yes you will need to rehone the cylinders or the new rings wont cut in and itll smoke like a pig.
look in how to section on here as I did a write up on it only a week or so ago.
you can get aftermarket ring sets on the net, as long as they are for sr20det engine they will be fine to use.
ideally you need to use a bore gauge in cylinders to make sure they are within spec for ovality or once again the rings will blowby.
also if theres deep scoring in the walls its no good honing the fook out of it as it wont work, basically you should hone each cylinder for no more than around 30-40 secs if there are marks left in there still after that then it will need a rebore with oversized pistons

This shit sounds serious lol

its not that bad just use your noodle and you wont go far wrong
read this
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t1699-honing-deglazing-cylinder-with-engine-in-situ#22920

Just read this one cheers I'm more of a engine swap guy than buggering about rebuilding shit but I'm trying to keep cost down aswell it's not far away before the heads off it not had much time to work on it due to work time I get in at night it's to dark think a few days sick off work might do the job lol if some one knew what they were doing how long would it take them todo this job head off etc cheers scott