Big problem please help

8k dam .. that's why I've adjusted my limiter. . Just incase I ever over rev .. Won't go above 6500rpm mine. ... love my apexi .

Good luck with the repairs

I bounce mine off 7,500 regularly. If engine health good & mainly mapping perfect it fine.
People are too worrying on revving the these motors.
Most issues are always due to half dead badly maintained engine & awful mapping/fuelling .

Mr B wrote:I bounce mine off 7,500 regularly. If engine health good & mainly mapping perfect it fine.
People are too worrying on revving the these motors.
Most issues are always due to half dead badly maintained engine & awful mapping/fuelling .

Sorry to hear your misfortune I must admit I have never had any problems reving the R changing at 6k is for Diesels. Could your turbo have sucked something in? Have you taken the piping off fully and checked the wheels to see if there is any damage or parts missing?

I blew a 3071 up and there was a hell of alot of smoke the compressor wheel had eaten into the housing but it didnt run like a sack of crap afterwards.

It could be a combination of things which just came about at the same time so hopefully you wont need to replace too much. Did you check the oil level before purchase?

ok so just done a compression test

Working from cylinder on left to right

Cylinder 1 = some oil on spark plug thread but compression is 160
Cylinder 2 = Loads of oil on spark plug tip compression is 140
Cylinder 3 = some oil on spark plug thread but compression is 165
Cylinder 4 = Loads of oil on spark plug tip compression 60 - 65


Looks like engine is problem. Fingers crossed it hasn't taken turbo with it.

picture of cylinder 4 plug

Probably ringland on 4 then.
You can go cheap route if budget tight & whip pistons out with engine in situ & replace with good used & new rings & rehone bores. Set of forged & decent overhaul best but not super cheap.
Will need session with tuner after rebuild/run in as fuelling, boost, ignition all needs checking/fixing or you be back to square one.
Main problem with most the UK stuff for sale is it all been owned by teenage dicks at some point & most are f00ked .

How much would a rebuild cost without forging.

I assume if turbo seals did go and that caused the oil in the intercooler pipework then it would of gone into all four cylinders rather than two cylinders.

How do i check if rings or exhaust inlet valves if the cylinder already has oil in (oil all over spark plug) doing a compression test.

Can be done cheap ((few £100) for some good used pistons, new rings, decent HG such as Victor Reinz. Need pull head off & see bore looks free of deep scuffs/scratches & if so you can pull pistons, inspect & replace.
Head can be overhauled too in terms of checking components for wear, lapping valves, checking shimming & replacing valve seals as that all cheap to do, well cheap if doing it yourself, if need pay labour then not cheap :-/
You also need remember need few hundred quid get it setup at decent tuners.
Most people waste money on junky front mount IC's & 17" rims. 1st thing spend on is decent boost control & mapping then car will last.

Can you recommend any where in the south are that are good with SR engines

joetheeskimo wrote:Can you recommend any where in the south are that are good with SR engines

GTiRUS!

shroom wrote:

joetheeskimo wrote:Can you recommend any where in the south are that are good with SR engines

GTiRUS!

Might be cheaper to buy an engine from them and just use that instead.
least it from them i guess i should get some guarantee and they will of checked the engine to be as problem free as possible.

I'd still be taking the rocker cover off & checking to see if you have thrown a rocker & holding the valves down.
Or if you can do a leak down test so you can pin point the issue.

Telephone Bob on 07723 361027
He will be able to advise you.

As stu said bob is the man he will have engines and be able to build/ supply u a good one mate good luck

Bob will sort it. Reving these engines in my opinion is fine i find its the fact a lot of heads are due shimming hence they throw the rocker

so called bob he told me it will be two things possibly.

one - piston ring on cylinder four and maybe cylinder two
two - could of thrown a rocker thus causing major damage

Took the rocker off as bob advised and looks like this. To me it looks all normal except black oil.


So it looks like its the rings

So started strippign the engine. Should be out this weekend.




I talked to bob and he said if i bring him the head and block together he will break it down and see whats wrong and what needs replacing.

So now need to add up the costs of new pistons, rings, head gasket, hone the bores, labour

Or cost to forge bottom end.

Only thing need for forging is set of pistons.
I get CP pistons at about 370GBP, UK price might be more.
I've run up to 350hp on good standard engines with nothing more than checking, new rings & better headgasket.
All down to proper mapping really & strangely that the number 1 thing most people don't bother with !
Don't forget you will need some money after rebuild to get it checked/mapped.

[quote="Mr B"]Only thing need for forging is set of pistons.
I get CP pistons at about 370GBP, UK price might be more.
I've run up to 350hp on good standard engines with nothing more than checking, new rings & better headgasket.
All down to proper mapping really & strangely that the number 1 thing most people don't bother with !
Don't forget you will need some money after rebuild to get it checked/mapped.
[/quote

Can you use CP pistons without uprated conrods or bottom end bearings when going for a forged engine.
Bob recommended i look at cosworth headgasket but not to sure on bore size of the SR20det or what width to go for.

You sure can.
Standard rods are superb & not worth replacing unless current ones damaged or doing a very special build.
Think you best seeing what happens once head off & bores checked & head checked/skimmed.

The standard con rods are already forged and good for big power

EDIT: The expert beat me to it

Bob has built plenty of these. I'd suggest cp pistons 86mm if the bores aren't marked. Cosworth 86mm headgasket. Acl shells.
Conrods are fine for big power just fit arp rod bolts as that's what let's go not the actual Conrods.

GTIR James wrote:Bob has built plenty of these. I'd suggest cp pistons 86mm if the bores aren't marked. Cosworth 86mm headgasket. Acl shells.
Conrods are fine for big power just fit arp rod bolts as that's what let's go not the actual Conrods.

Do you reckon i can use the standard Main studs or would i need to upgrade these too.

Standard mains are fine. No need to change them.

oh ok. i thought it was going to cost a lot more to forge the bottom end. I didnt realise you can re use the main rods.

So as long as all valves are still seated ok the list of parts is

- Cosworth HG
- CP Pistons (i assume these come with rings)
- ACL shells / but i assume you could just use stock shells as long as they are ok
- ARP rod bolts
- Maybe new bearings

yep as everyone else has suggested joe..............there are various ways to go with it dependant upon state of the engine when we pull her apart but if everything is serviceable then there are different ways we can go with building her back up again depending on your budget.

With prior notice we can strip engine down whilst you wait and carry out certain checks so at least you know where you stand then with what can and cant be used rather than awaiting a call from us.

once its built up and engine is installed drop the car down to us and we will run her on the dyno and check your fuelling and so forth is all as it should be because as Mr B said, there could well be a fuelling issue here which has resulted in this happening and you don't want it happening again after having the engine sorted.

And as mentioned by others, stock rods are fine on these engines, never ever seen a broken or twisted rod just rod bolts that have let go.