Big problem please help

joetheeskimo wrote:oh ok. i thought it was going to cost a lot more to forge the bottom end. I didnt realise you can re use the main rods.

So as long as all valves are still seated ok the list of parts is

- Cosworth HG
- CP Pistons (i assume these come with rings)
- ACL shells / but i assume you could just use stock shells as long as they are ok
- ARP rod bolts
- Maybe new bearings

if your going down this route I would strongly advise fitting a new oil pump too as that supplies life blood to your engine and the one on there is no doubt knocking on for 25 years old so days could be numbered

rings come with pistons
stock rod and main bearings are graded to crank from new
Acl are universal fit but still need to have bearing to journal clearances checked and adjust accordingly, same goes for piston rings that need gapping correctly
then theres stuff like head needs checking for any warpage as needs to be perfectly flat if mls gasket is used, so may well need a light skim
same as crank should be checked for hairline fractures and if all good then at a minimum needs to be lightly polished
then you have certain oil seals need replacing, gaskets, thrust washers so list does go on a bit

Out of interest bob, how do you check/adjust fueling on a standard ecu or like mine already set to a given program, Thought they were set at factory. To be honest I just fitted the ecu I had from you and away I went but mine never goes above 5k and I have a wideband fitted, which I would also recommend to this poor guy

Bones wrote:Out of interest bob, how do you check/adjust fueling on a standard ecu or like mine already set to a given program, Thought they were set at factory. To be honest I just fitted the ecu I had from you and away I went but mine never goes above 5k and I have a wideband fitted, which I would also recommend to this poor guy

You can't adjust a standard ecu on its own (that's why daughter boards were fitted or nistune for example)

but if there is an issue then something will be causing that issue so you can hopefully replace or sort it out so that it is running correctly.

^^^

As the man above says Darren,You can't adjust fuelling on a stock ecu.

But a Dyno run with afr check will address any potential issues with the fuelling system and given boost you are running, that's why its a good idea if raising boost level or fitting any aftermarket parts such as fuel pump, induction kit, exhaust and so forth to just Get it checked especially when on boost. the need is more so if your using 25 year old stock cast alloy Pistons that have been through untold heat cycles and susceptible to cracking ringlands if things aren't 100% correct.

Suppose you can also set the boost to a level that allows everything to run as it should

Can you pm me with the cost for this check please sir Bob

Bones wrote:Suppose you can also set the boost to a level that allows everything to run as it should

Definately it is interesting to see. Alot of people are sometimes disapointed at rolling road days as they have turned up the boost but havent gained any bhp as their there is a whole host of things that can effect it. Plug gap, timing, ht leads, dodgy dump valves the list is endless and as you can guess thats why it is so important to check to make sure everything is ok.

As Bob says its important to get a good look at your afrs I know when I fitted a different filter to Party Petes car I actually lost about 30bhp and it messed the fueling up as it was more restrictive but luckily I only changed it to go and have it mapped.

going to try and get the engine out of the car tomorrow.

Need some time as havent pulled a pulsar engine out before

- Can i remove inlet plenum in situ ive un-done all bolts and pipes that are easily accessible but doesn't seem to want to come off.
- Do the drive shaft just pop out of the box, is there any special method to remove these (do i need to take them out of the hubs first)
- Is the prop just bolted the gearbox
- Is there any easy way to get to the center bolt of the exhaust manifold on the bottom row. All bolts seem ok to get to but this one seems an nightmare
- To remove gearbox from engine i assume just undo gear linkage arm and undo all bell housing bolts and should just pop off. (Any tips would be useful)

Thanks

joetheeskimo wrote:going to try and get the engine out of the car tomorrow.

Need some time as havent pulled a pulsar engine out before

- Can i remove inlet plenum in situ ive un-done all bolts and pipes that are easily accessible but doesn't seem to want to come off.
- Do the drive shaft just pop out of the box, is there any special method to remove these (do i need to take them out of the hubs first)
- Is the prop just bolted the gearbox
- Is there any easy way to get to the center bolt of the exhaust manifold on the bottom row. All bolts seem ok to get to but this one seems an nightmare
- To remove gearbox from engine i assume just undo gear linkage arm and undo all bell housing bolts and should just pop off. (Any tips would be useful)

Thanks

Leave the inlet on, drop the engine onto something with wheels and lift the car over the engine. I use an engine hoist around the front crossmember to lift it, if you don't have a hoist or it doesn't go high enough then you can put jacks either side of the sills as far back as you dare to lift the front, not something I recommend.

Drive shafts pop out with a little encouragement from a pry bar, if this is their first outing try and not lose the retaining ring on the end of the shaft. you will also want something to catch the gearbox oil that comes out, or drain it first. take them out of the hubs first by removing the hub to upright bolts so you can bend them out of the way.

Prop is bolted to transferbox with 4 half moon bolts, the nuts can be pretty seized I suggest leaving the rear wheels on the ground or using your handbrake if it's good enough to stop the prop from turning.

Leave the manifold, gearbox and transferbox on until the engine is out for better access. In addition to what you mentioned you will also need to disconnect the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder and a couple of electrical plugs.

P.s the short engine loom (injectors/det sensor/AAC control/coolant temp etc) can be disconnected from the main loom so it can be removed with the engine, much easier than trying to disconnect all the plugs at the back of the block.

grimd wrote:P.s the short engine loom (injectors/det sensor/AAC control/coolant temp etc) can be disconnected from the main loom so it can be removed with the engine, much easier than trying to disconnect all the plugs at the back of the block.

injectors harness isn't on that loom grim its on the main ecu loom
that whole loom can stay in the car once plug connections have been pulled apart
the one grim is talking about all plugs in next to relay box on driver inner wing so once you've unplugged those and an earth wire to body plus ones to alternator that whole loom can be thrown on top of engine and removed together.

little tip for you
once you have got all the necessary bolts and wires off undo all securing bolts at the bottom of gearbox and transferbox then when the engines out you haven't got to lift it right up again to get to those bolts to separate the gear and transferbox, same thing applies when installing.....leave those out till shes sitting back on the mounts

if doing the car on the floor without a lift then I find it easier to use a trolley (such as bread trolley borrowed from rear of supermarkets lol)
get a high lift jack and a sturdy 3'' piece of wood about 4ft long and place it across the rear of front arb's, centralise the jack and jack and lower car right down so weight of engine and transmission is sitting on the trolley then remove all the mounts from gearbox and main engine mount, once they are off carefully jack the car up until its high enough to pull the whole lot out on the trolley (do not get underneath car whilst only on the jack)
once its all clear then slowly lower the jack down so vehicle rests on axle stands.

if your using an engine crane to lift the car up youll find the legs get right in the way when you want to drag the whole lot out, doing it the other way is a bit naughty but as long as your careful its the easiest way.

GTI-R US wrote:

grimd wrote:P.s the short engine loom (injectors/det sensor/AAC control/coolant temp etc) can be disconnected from the main loom so it can be removed with the engine, much easier than trying to disconnect all the plugs at the back of the block.

injectors harness isn't on that loom grim its on the main ecu loom
that whole loom can stay in the car once plug connections have been pulled apart
the one grim is talking about all plugs in next to relay box on driver inner wing so once you've unplugged those and an earth wire to body plus ones to alternator that whole loom can be thrown on top of engine and removed together.

if your using an engine crane to lift the car up youll find the legs get right in the way when you want to drag the whole lot out, doing it the other way is a bit naughty but as long as your careful its the easiest way.

My bad been a while!

Depends on your crane and trolley i suppose, I have a trolley just the same size as the lump and fits between the hoist legs just nice. Can also position hoist off to the side so that the lump can be dragged out the other side. I'm just not keen on the jacking method.

Chaps correct me if I'm wrong but the pic with the rocker cover off I swear that the top 1st 2nd and 4th rocker arm seems to be out of place can anyone confirm this as its not too clear thanks

Indy wrote:Chaps correct me if I'm wrong but the pic with the rocker cover off I swear that the top 1st 2nd and 4th rocker arm seems to be out of place can anyone confirm this as its not too clear thanks

Looks spot on to me?

Anyone got a link to a walk through for drive shaft and gearbox removal.

Take the drive shafts out of the hubs first then use a pry bar to pop them out, it's real easy! You are leaving the gearbox on the engine whilst you drop it out aren't you?

PartyPete wrote:Take the drive shafts out of the hubs first then use a pry bar to pop them out, it's real easy! You are leaving the gearbox on the engine whilst you drop it out aren't you?

Yep leaving it on while i drop it out then will remove gearbox and transfer box afterwards. I will leave clutch attached to flywheel and take it to GTI-R-US like that.

Anyone know the weight of the SR20DET with gearbox. Thinking about lifting into the back of the focus with gearbox on. Wouldnt of thought you need to remove gearbox to take head of the motor and replace pistons.

What's the main reason for leaving the box on?

Surely it would be better to remove it for transport and you can inspect the clutch etc whilst you take the engine to Bobs and clean the gearbox up so its all nice to go back in?

Why would you want to put it into your car with the gear box on? It's extremely heavy, would use an engine crane if you have one, the gearbox is easy enough to remove, there's a few bolts around the starter motor area to look for, and a bracket at the back of the block I seem to remember? Just have a good nosey around. And you can take the head off with the gear box on

It was just a thought.

joetheeskimo wrote:It was just a thought.

Strip it down it will be alot easier on your back trying to hall it in the boot! The gearbox is a good weight on its own with the transfer etc

Thanks Pete sorry just thought they were a bit off centre.

So todays work consited off removing prop shaft from transfer box, removed turbo from engine and manifold and down pipe, undone the gear linkage and support brace, radiator, drained engine, gearbox, also removed drive shafts.
Engine is now ready to come out. Borrowed an engine crane from my friend and tomorrow going to drop the engine, and pull it out. Dropping it down onto a heavy duty mat and dragging the mat out as dont have a trolley.

Had a look at the ports and cyclinder 4 is filled with oil / coolant, all the rest are sotty.

Had a look at turbo and there is oil on the intake side but proably due to the oil from cylinder four.

Shaft play;

Radial play <1mm
Axial play - none.