JoetheEskimos GTIR Build

Progress Update - Engine now fitted

Here are the pictures of the engine fitted. It was a nightmare to say the least, i dont advise anyone trying to fit a gearbox and then get the engine into the car by them selves. its not a one man job...took me hours but i did it and pretty happy to do it by myself actually.

Engine IN




These are just some pictures of parts that i need to replace, just took these to remind me what to do.







Then my girlfriend came out and took a picture, me feeling very happy the engine is in and the car didnt fall on me and crush me.



If anyones go a picture of how a alternator is held on that would be great

Also if anyone has got a vacuum pipe diagram or a turbo oil line diagram that would be useful as well.

Also would like to get a set of these, R32 GTR wheels. I love the R33 design and have owned two sets previously but unfortuntaly they are 17" and i dont think 17" wheels suit the GTIR.

Just need to get these wheels then some hub adapters made up

Well done for doing this on your own joe .... its always better job with two of you on it to share some of the lumping about did you chuck it on a trolley then roll it under the car then lift the car up ???

The vacume diagram is a sticky on the site

nomad wrote:Well done for doing this on your own joe .... its always better job with two of you on it  to share some of the lumping about did you chuck it on a trolley then roll it under the car then lift the car up ???

Thanks. I made a trolley out of an old cut down crate them screwed some wheels on. What didn't help is the ground I'm doing it on wasn't completely flat so sometimes the wheels of the crane wouldn't touch the floor. Took 6 attempt to get the engine in the bay as the plenum kept hitting the inner arch then the trolley got stuck on the crane legs then couldn't get the engine in fully as turbo was catching on support bar in the bay so had to remove the turbo while the car balanced on the crane but in the end I got it in.

Yes full respect to you doing it on your own on the drive! Did mine the other week with a mate on a ramp and that was a bloody pain!

decided to finish off the headlights today. DIY amber indicators. I used amber glass paint. two coats and baked in the oven at 50degrees C.

I am really liking the look of the front now.

Here is the indicator



Now on the car

I'm loving the look.
I did my indicators a few years back.

so its been a while since ive updated this thread. I been slaving away getting a fair amount done.

Engine is now pretty much wired up except from one terminal on the starter motor, alternator and injectors.

Ive found out we have got a sand blaster at work so been making the use out of that.

Ive sand blasted all these parts and now spraying them in hammerite smooth black. All these parts looked horendous before hand, i wish i had taken some pictures.










Also was able to get the bushes out of the front wishbones, so now need to sand blast them and hammerite spray them. I was thinking about powder coating but then its difficult to mask the bores etc. As long as i do a fair few coats of hammerite i think it should last well.

Some of the new parts to put on the front suspension






And now the restored air filter, got a new filter from online and sandblasted and painted the wire mesh. looks new



Next few things i need to do are as follows

- Buy alternator bracket
- Relocate Battery to boot (buy box and lead)
- Fit washer bottle in boot
- Connect up FMIC properly
- Make bottom mount brackets for FMIC
- Replace gear linkage seal on gearbox
- Buy replacement O-Ring set for injectors and fit injectors
- Fill engine with oil and gearbox oil
- Get rocker cover sprayed in HKS colours
- Replace all blue samco hoses with black hoses
- Cover all FMIC pipes in gold reflective sticky back heat insulation tape.

great effort parts looking nice and clean. Please save the gearbox oil for the box and not the engine. Joking aside hats off for doing it yourself

Smashing work there, im also loving the headlight look

Great stuff mate, getting stuff done it's always good having a list, gives you more motivation every time you cross something off

Just make sure you stay this happy and it will be done in no time

Top effort mr joe.
most people would of given up long ago or not be looking as enthusiastically fresh as you still do

Thanks for all the kind comments guys keeps me going.

Here is the poly bushes and ball joint fitted to one of the control arms

So after months of feeling like not getting anywhere with this build im at the point where all i need to do is connect the battery and fit the down pipe and will be able to turn the key.






Got a few questions though,

1) - ive removed the charcoal canister and there was vacumm pipe from the inlet that went to the charcoal canister can i just block this?
2) - Also where the fuel lines enter the engine bay there is pipe that has a t-piece split off, what do these connect too?
3) - ive got a HKS dump valve, ive connected one vacumm pipe but if you look at the picutre below where do i connect to the other side of it.
4) when i do start it what should my oil pressure and what water pressure be ready at cold and warm temperatures




Thanks

As you guys have probably seen the paint on my car has been looking terrible. its covered in tree sap and rust particles and not been washed since febuary. I though i would need a full respsray as the paint felt like sandpaper

So i washed it yesterday and today i machine polished the front wings, boot, doors and rear wings using rubbing compound. Here are the results. its looks honestly stunning now. Still some light scratches so going to use a rotary polisher to try and get these out rather than an orbital polisher.







Tomorrow i am going to give the car a deep wax polish using the machine polisher to see how good i can get it. Still need to machine polish the roof and bonnet.


On another note i got my wheel bearings fitted to my front hubs, however i need to find someway to remove the old inner bearing recess from the hub spindles as they are stuck on. Not to sure best way to do this. But once ive done this i can get the water pump changed over and fit all the new front suspension stuff.
Thanks

I useded a cold chisel to remove the bearing from spindle, just tap it off, careful not to damage the spindle though.

Cracking job with the paint mate, good effort!

Paint looks great mate well done .... i normally use a grinder keep the grinder flat wear the metal down till its thin then split it with a chisel .... try tapping it off first the grinding method is if the bugger wont budge at all ....

so today my two aims were to replace temperature sensor and sort out my brake discs.

my brake discs have been off the car for six months so they have built up with so much rust. As money is tight my only option was to refurb them rather than buying a new set of discs.
Bought a 80 grit flap discs from screwfix for £2.50 and set about the discs with it. I found some old paint laying about so painted the inner parts black.
here are the results.


As for replacing the temperature sensor i did it with engine still in car and was a nightmare. i climbed onto the engine and did a good old reach around to get it off.
Problem is as i sort one thing out another problem occurs, the connector for the loom broke so now need to get another connector and struggle behind the engine to fit it onto the normal loom

Also bought a new battery went with a 310 battery (i think its called a 310) refused to pay £90 from eurocarparts so instead they found a 70Ah battery (310) for £50.

Thanks

So after a lot of effor over last few days got the following done

Lower control arms fitted, water pump replaced, replaced connector on water temp sensor, fitted brakes
However couldnt bleed the brakes as the nipple snapped on the rear offside caliper.




So instead of it being left on it stands i decided to drop the car down onto all four wheels, first time in 6 months its been on all four wheels. even drove the car under its own power forward and backwards.




Need to do the following now

- bleed brakes
- Fill power steering with fluid
- Build a splitter to go under front of car, more to protect intercooler from absorbing road damage.
- get welding done
- take to Bob to be checked on Dyno
- MOT and drive it.

Even though there is still a mountain of work to do it feels great to have it on all four wheels, feels like ive concord the world.

Well done mate for sticking with it .... every job is one ticked off the list

Well done, hope it plain sailing from now on ... your brake rotor/bell makeover was good salvage effort ...

Bet your looking forward to getting it driving, keep up the good work

Well done.
Those disks have come up a treat