JoetheEskimos GTIR Build

So picked up my first GTIR yesterday. Collecting the car entailed a train from new milton hampshire to southampton airport, flight to endinburgh airport and drive back of 457 Miles.

It was a long day

The car came with a ton of paper work.

The car was imported in 1998 around 2007 it had a fully forged engine built norris designs this was replaced with a rebuilt forged engine and then in 2012 GTI-R-US sold it with a stockish SR20 engine.

From then the paper work claims its got a Hybrid Turbo that was fitted in 2012/2013. Not to sure what the difference being between normal turbo and hybrid, i assume its bearing related so it spools quicker but thats a guess. The previous previous owner in 2013 was named Stephen Nichols so if anyone has his contact details that would be great so i can ask more about the engine.


It has the following mods;
Mongoose full cat back system
Manual Boost controller set to 0.9Bar
HKS Boost Gauge
HKS Dual Dump Valve
HKS mushroom filter
Walbro Fuel Pump
BK Racing 16" Wheels
Upgrade GTI-R-US gear selector fork
Exedra Stage 2 3 Puck Clutch
Some type of damper adjustable suspension

Its feels bloody rapid, its been a while since I've driven an SR20DET car and it really does pull well from 0 - 100 its just silly

There are a few issues but i guess there always is if you pay less than average for a car.
Rust on rear arches as they are bubbling
Heaters don't work very well
Temperature gauge doesn't work

This morning i set about cleaning it and hovering it out as it was filthy. Also de-wipered the rear to tidy up the rear end as it was.


Plans for the next year are as follows
FMIC as its still got a standard FMIC
Wideband O2 Sensor
Change exhaust tip to 3" rather than 5"
Sort out Rust
Wider Wheels with semi slicks
Service the car

Niggles
one strange thing is when you change gear below 2k revs the car really judders back and forth. Gears go in fine but it does judder so you got to give it some revs. I thought this may be due to the stage 2 clutch and uprated gear fork. If you have any thoughts please let me know.
After 80mph wind starts coming in through the driver door seal, think its an old seal so maybe its that.

Enough of the talking here are some pictures


Exterior






Interior





Engine Bay











What i would love it to look like

Sounds like you had a fun day lol
If you think .9 is fun. Wait until you turn it up some more haha
Even on 1bar the gtir becomes a different animal!
Looks sweet.

You have a bolt loose on the back of the turbo up pipe

Stu wrote:You have a bolt loose on the back of the turbo up pipe

Oh yer so i do. Once i get a wideband sensor then i will turn it up. Not to sure if a MBC is safe at 1Bar. its not spiking at the moment so i think it should be safe but having an EBC would be nice to be able to run hi and lo boost.

i know this car very well joe as was me (gti-r us) that sold it to steph who was a member on here.
think he had a few issues with gearbox prior to be being put up for sale on here at some point before xmas.
we sold him the car around 2-3 years ago and was in his possession up till someone recently bought her who must have been the person you bought it from. Actually I almost bought it back again from him as I know this was a descent car once the niggly bits had been sorted but couldn't get time to arrange collection being up in scottyland lol

if its a paddle clutch fitted now you will get some degree of judder at low rpm and take off but you soon get the knack of driving them as theres a way to avoid the judder.

as stu says theres a bolt loose on turbo up pipe to tmic, tighten that up as you will be losing boost pressure through there

good luck with her joe, as said its not a bad car at all

GTI-R US wrote:i know this car very well joe as was me (gti-r us) that sold it to steph who was a member on here.
think he had a few issues with gearbox prior to be being put up for sale on here at some point before xmas.
we sold him the car around 2-3 years ago and was in his possession up till someone recently bought her who must have been the person you bought it from. Actually I almost bought it back again from him as I know this was a descent car once the niggly bits had been sorted but couldn't get time to arrange collection being up in scottyland lol

if its a paddle clutch fitted now you will get some degree of judder at low rpm and take off but you soon get the knack of driving them as theres a way to avoid the judder.

as stu says theres a bolt loose on turbo up pipe to tmic, tighten that up as you will be losing boost pressure through there

good luck with her joe, as said its not a bad car at all

Great thats good news, yer the gearbox issues have now been sorted, New uprated fork, new release brand new exedra clutch now four days old.
The guy who sold it to me has a gearbox friend who looked over it and apparently its in good condition now.

Do you remember about the engine if it was fully stock or had any work. Paper work says hybrid turbo but not to sure if this more power or not.

Ok will tighten that up straight away. once rust is sorted the car should be great.

Nice write up mate, sounds like a solid car but with a few little things to do. I really like the last pic, looks mean!

yeah we made the fork for it joe
think steph replaced the turbo with a hybrid stage 1 unit which basically means it has a 360 thrust bearing fitted as opposed to 270 degree thrust, this wont give you any extra power over a completely stock turbo but will make it more durable if you want to run a bit more boost.

the engine as far as I can remember was completely stock which was built up by us and fitted. it did have an ND engine fitted when we purchased it but sold off the engine and all the modified parts and fitted stock back as shell was in pretty good order, way too good to scrap even at that time.

So heres a quick update. As most are aware from the topic i started in the discussion forum my engine has died after 570 miles of owning the car.

After a call with bob at GTI-R-US he told us what to do.

I set about yesterday with removing the engine, it has to be one of the biggest ball aches i have had with removing an engine as it cannot be lifted out. Bit of a brown pants moment jacking the car with an engine hoist and then finding out half the loom was still attached to the engine.

Oil on the inlet prelnum intercooler pipe, this is the same colour oil in the exhaust port


Rocker Cover Removed to inspect rocker arms


Here is the pictures from compression test.
Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 4



here is some pictures of engine being removed.




when you look in the exhaust ports cylinder four is filled with oil / coolant, all ther rest of the ports are sotty.

Had a look at the turbo as there was loads of oil, the downpipe is oily, the intake side of the turbo is oily but i had tested axial and radial play in the turbo shaft.
There is around 1mm of radial play but no axial play in the turbo.

Took the gearbox off and the clutch looks perfect its in great condition but it should be as its only a few days old.


Couple of bits that need repairing or replacing while the engine is being built;
- Turbo Oil Return line split
- Water line for the intake split during engine removal
- Water temperature sensor needs replacing
- Track rod end arms need replacing
- Few studs on rocker cover need replacing

Plans while the engine is out;
- Tidy Engine Bay
- Deep clean and tidy up any surface rust
- Aircon was previosuly removed so need to remove bulk head pipes
- Take apart headlights and spray internal plastic black and lens yellow
- Amber corners
- Move battery to boot

I need to get prices from bob for the following
- New HG
- Two Standard Pistons (Honed Bores)
- New Piston Rings
- Rebuild Cost
- Any Seals required

Need to compare this list to forging it
- New Cosworth HG
- ARP conrod studs
- CP pistons with Rings
- Rebuild Cost
- Any Seals Required

If its not that much more expensive i will forge other wise it will need to wait to next year for forging

Here is a few pictures of the engine exhuast ports





Turbo




Engine Bay Pre Clean

OK so heres an update. Took the engine up to GTI-R-US yesterday. First of all got to say big thanks to bob and the guys up there, Spent the afternoon stripping the engine down.

So whether to start with the good news or the bad news.....

Good news is crank looks ok. and thats where the good news stops.

The bad news...here is a picture of the engine in bits



engine died due to detenation. Cyclinder Four was the worst but cylinder 1 and 2 were also gone.

Took piston four out to find...yep a whole in the piston and part melted piston on the bore.


[IMG]https://s1233.photobucket.com/user/joe1401/media/Screenshots_2015-03-13-18-41-56.png.html[IMG]

so the block totally fucked, to re-use it bob said its needs the cylinders boring then honing and decking

even more bad news, head was inspected. One of the cams had a chunk out of it so that needs bining. Then onto the head, pretty much each cylinder is cracked. so thats the head scrapped as well.

So now i have to weigh up what to do.

Either go forged engine...thats 2.2K plus 400 for maping
or get another stock engine for 700 then 400 for maping

and look at forging next year.

Forge it and a good map trouble free away you go

johnny gtir wrote:Forge it and a good map trouble free away you go

Yer thas what im thinking....its just the funds, ive got around £1400 cash..but its going to be around £2800, Dont think bob does finance.

Least ive got a daily.

Just need to figure out what i can use from my block

i assume i can use the acl bearings, big end bearings, conrods and crank from mine. Put that into another block with new pistons ring hg etc.

Well if block can be bored, bore it & use it, absolutely no issue boring for say 88mm oversize piston max if had to, I done 88 bore build and been fine, not silly power though on standard liners but they thicker and better than credited, drop in what ever forged pistons you guys get in UK at good price & bottom end covered. all you need then is pick up a decent head & that should be reasonably easy & not silly expense .

Mr B wrote:Well if block can be bored, bore it & use it, absolutely no issue boring for say 88mm oversize piston & still got some room for further boring if had to, drop in what ever forged pistons you guys get in UK at good price & bottom end covered. all you need then is pick up a decent head & that should be reasonably easy & not silly expense .

Im in the states next month so looking to getting my pistons, hg, arp conrod bolts all over there.

Buy a good known forged one and put it in get fueling checked job done save your self hassel and cash sell your crank and if you really want build one at a later date if cash is tight

Bottom end needs full inspection along with conrods given proper checks. Expect you may want new shells unless they spot on.
Pistons & arp bolts cheaper in states, pistons very much so, expect cosworth gasket in UK cheap enough, would need know what happening with block in terms of machining (verified serviceable) to buy pistons & HG .

Good to meet you and your mate yesterday joe 
sorry was a bit manic but at least we got there with it in the end 

not a pretty sight was that engine but no more than was expected taking things prior into consideration.

As said the block can be reused if you want so rebore, thorough clean and decking (with pump casing attached) will be cheaper than a stock block from us honed to accept 86mm cp's as good stock blocks are not easy come by now.
The head is royally fooked tbh as is the inlet cam. 

This engine has run far too much boost and suffered serious detonation which has resulted in damage to block, pistons and combustion chambers in head so car needs fuelling thoroughly checking when engines built or it will suffer the same fate.

The oil pump will be trashed with the amount of debris off the Pistons and I will not use that pump should you decide on rebuild so grab a new one whilst in the states but make sure it's the correct rnn14

Rods should be fine with arp bolts fitted

Head gasket thickness will be determined by decking and head skimming requiredi should you decide for us to use that block

Would definately advise on having new shells fitted as well as thrust washers. Crank will need full inspection for cracks when removed and if all good will get away with polish then correctly gapped new shells fitted.

All seals will need replacing but won't have any issues with re-using the timing chain,  tensioner, slippers, head bolts.
Then obviously the new head will need to be shimmed up with cams prior to fitting


As said above........may possibly be cheaper to just fit another good used forged engine by the time you've finished purchasing all parts needed and covered engineering and our build costs.

Oil pump in the states is around £125 from what I remember, CP pistons can be had round the £330 mark if shop around but you going need google & contact companies in advance for availability & delivery/collection for when u in states..
Think you need work out estimated cost & decide what want do.
Building engine works out good/affordable if you can self build.
Your 2 downsides are needing source replacement head & cover assembly labour.

GTI-R US wrote:Good to meet you and your mate yesterday joe 
sorry was a bit manic but at least we got there with it in the end 
not a pretty sight was that engine but no more than was expected taking things prior into consideration.
As said the block can be reused if you want so rebore, thorough clean and decking (with pump casing attached) will be cheaper than a stock block from us honed to accept 86mm cp's as good stock blocks are not easy come by now.
The head is royally fooked tbh as is the inlet cam. 
The oil pump will be trashed with the amount of debris off the Pistons and I will not use that pump should you decide on rebuild so grab a new one whilst in the states but make sure it's the correct rnn14

Rods should be fine with arp bolts fitted
Head gasket thickness will be determined by decking and head skimming requiredi should you decide for us to use that block

Would definately advise on having new shells fitted as well as thrust washers. Crank will need full inspection for cracks when removed and if all good will get away with polish then correctly gapped new shells fitted.
All seals will need replacing but won't have any issues with re-using the timing chain,  tensioner, slippers, head bolts.
Then obviously the new head will need to be shimmed up with cams prior to fitting

Hi Bob I will give you a call tomorrow to discuss the course of action, i would prefer a new built forged engine compared to a second hand forged engine just so i know everything has been done correctly.
I think if we can bore the engine engine out up to 87mm and deck the head by what ever is requried. This way i can get the pisotns and headgasket on order asap.

Mr B wrote:Oil pump in the states is around £125 from what I remember, CP pistons can be had round the £330 mark if shop around but you going need google & contact companies in advance for availability & delivery/collection for when u in states..
Building engine works out good/affordable if you can self build.
Your 2 downsides are needing source replacement head & cover assembly labour.

Assembly labour cost i know i wont get around but i dont mind if bob does it as first impressions with bob was really good.

I would like to see if i can get a complete head so minimal work if any is required, Just bolt the second hand head on.

on another note today i refurbished my front anti roll bar. While the car is the off the road im going to restore all the parts and upgrade what i can.

Sanded down the anti roll bar with wire brush attached to a grinder. then painted in silver hammerite

Plan is to take all suspension components off, remove all bushes, sandblast them all then powder coat and fit new poly bushes.

joetheeskimo wrote:
I would like to see if i can get a complete head so minimal work if any is required, Just bolt the second hand head on.

Doubt work like that, you more likely get a standard head & it going need going over in terms of inspection & new seals, valve lapping & shimming etc.
Even picking up a rebuilt head would need checking really ...
Put a request in parts wanted for the head, may get some idea on availability/cost then.
Machine shop going need check block bores to see what likely over-bore needed even 87.5mm no problem & fine for high 400ph build, I rebuilt one on 88mm as not many 54c spares over here & it still running fine. Standard liners are thicker & stronger than credited .
head gasket probably best uk sourced cosworth as they great gaskets & great price too, worth checking US price on HKS Apexi gaskets just to be sure.

Yeah will have a chat with you tomorrow joe as to what you want to do.

I think the block will be fine for an 87mm bore but if they can get away with 86.5mm then I would suggest you go with that 
1. It will give you more scope to use block again for another bore if ever needed
2. Applies mainly to curcuit /race use, the smaller piston size allows for better cooling on track when engines living near red line constantly. temps start to rise as you have just that bit extra thickness on the liner which separates the main coolant galleries. If coolant temps are kept low then this has a knock on affect with regard to oil temps too.
High temps cause many issues all of which have a detrimental affect on engine.
But as said not really relevant on a road car

87 & 87.5 is 100% fine on the 54c & not had problems cooling or liner cracking even here in thailand. 88mm is really block rescue & can work fine but indeed not best for high boost track use but if done well will service decent power road car. a lot of motorsport sr20s have run 88mm bores but mainly NA cars. always best only bore what needed as like Bob points out have another 1 or 2 overbore steps is useful.
Can re liner them & more options available than just darton, prefer 88mm on standard over re-sleeve unless your machinist is expert with sr20det sleeve machining though :-)

Just seen Jay 1 has a engine for sale bud on gtir-oc at a good price and spec might help you get yours back on the road