Nissan consult running rich issues

Does anybody use this?
Can it tell you if your O2 sensor is not working?
Can you adjust your idle speed because I have high idle problems
Also does it give you A/F readings

Yes used it every day.
02 sensor voltage is available in data monitor setting, volts & rich lean.
To adjust idle speed use work support function & set base idle via idle screw on iacv valve. High idle problems are normaly a vacuum leak.
Air fuel ratios are available but in wide band form. This is done on percentage on consult. Hope this helps

Sounds good. Is it straightforward to use?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291108006808

Seen so many some for £20 some for £10

This one any good

Which Software are you using?

Turbazz wrote:Which Software are you using?

Bump the above.

Any of the free software any good?

Il see if ive still got the software i downloaded for him ....

http://www.freedownload64.com/details/161093/nistune.html

I have nistine but in free trial. Only works for 10 minutes a time doesn't it?

ive got the nissan datascan good bit of kit just a shame it cant tell you about bottem ends .... lol

http://kickass.to/nissan-data-scan-i-1-62-cracked-zip-t7070680.html

Above link for those who know how to use torrents ...

pulsarmad20 wrote:ive got the nissan datascan good bit of kit just a shame it cant tell you about bottem ends .... lol

Well that's why I'm after it haha, fuel is getting into my oil and not sure why.

Borewash maybe over fueling issue ????

I'm confident that's what it is based on afrs at low load but I've been given info about how this is because of the cams etc.

Don't know enough about the mapping/tuning side to say for sure but trying to make sure everything is working correctly before I get a mapper involved.

Me either mate its all to confusing for my little brain ...what cams are you running fella ???

Piper 270's apparently. Reprofiled standard cams I believe.

Yes piper 270 and 272s are basically re-profiled cams
Very good cams but if I'm honest they are not really suitable for a gtir with solid lifters because you'll get no benefit from them until your over around 6500 rpm and at that point your kind of looking to change gear.
Ideally you need a lower profile cam which will come in at a lower rpm where you can make the most of it.
With the big tubby you've got you inadvertently have created a bit of a lag monster which is probably another reason why she's over fuelling at lower down intervals until the cams kick in. Obviously this can be helped by a good map taking the cams into consideration but if I were you I would ditch them in favour of some hks 264s or Kent cams which are a 258 profile.
If not you would be far better to run it with the stock cams the car then will have a lot more low down oomph and be much more drivable with a good bit of mapping

Lag isn't too bad, full boost by about 4k. But like you say the peak power is a touch high for me, I do think that I will change the cams to stock though and have it mapped when I can.  I guess changing cams will throw the map way off? Would need 're shimmed too at a guess?

You got cams in stock? Threw a pair out last November because the lobes had started corroding  

I will have a set of 264s hks by end of this week hopefully
They have proven to be the best all round cam for the gtir although I prefer the Kent cams if I'm honest.

Yes you will definitely need a remap due to different overlaps and cam profile as well as cam duration as I'm assuming it was priorly mapped with those cams fitted.
You will have a slightly rich idle with any aftermarket cam due to the valve opening duration but a good tuner should be able to iron this out so the car idles fine as you do not need excess fuel at idle or light throttle, this is what causes fuel mixture with oil and if the car doesn't get used much it does not have the chance to evaporate then can cause probs with bore wash and spun bearings ect

What are your afr's like on the car? Have you got a wideband fitted because if not then they are a very good cheap diagnostic tool which can save you shed loads in the long run  
Also have you checked the state of the plugs in the car?

Might stick with stock cams to be honest. It's a fair weather daily car so it's getting used a lot but not mega hard, oil is only getting to 85c.

Have aem wideband. Tend to get low 11s on idle, 10 on wot and stoich on constant throttle. When coming to a standstill it starts at 13 and drops to 11 eventually but it idled fine at 13 so don't know why.

Plugs look good since it runs spot on at cruise.

Yeah the plugs look spot on tbh

However 11s on idle is way too rich you can afford to drop that to 15-16s as you do not require that volume of fuel at idle it's just wasted and will cause you problems in the long run.
10s on boost is not far off where she should be

If oil is only reaching 80-85 degrees then yeah you may be better off refitting stock cams
Horses for courses as they say

GTI-R US wrote:Yeah the plugs look spot on tbh

However 11s on idle is way too rich you can afford to drop that to 15-16s as you do not require that volume of fuel at idle it's just wasted and will cause you problems in the long run.
10s on boost is not far off where she should be

If oil is only reaching 80-85 degrees then yeah you may be better off refitting stock cams
Horses for courses as they say

Could be less than 10 on boost, it only goes down to 10!

Time to pull it off the road then...again!

Might need some cams then if the consult doesn't flag up an problems with things.