Just bought a Consult cable...

...to talk to my (generic) daughterboard fitted ECU.

When I looked inside the ECU some time ago, there wasn't any tuner names anywhere to be found so I genuinely don't know who did the conversion and whats on the chip sets.

Is there any software (free if possible) that I can download to allow me to talk to the ECU, to display sensor voltages, fault codes etc? The ability to look at the fuel and timing maps, and potentially upload a new map in future would be advantageous.

FWIW this is the cable I've bought:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-Pin-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-USB-Cable-Connector-Adapter-For-Nissan-OBD-Interface/153024202083?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Many thanks & happy Friday!  

mike

Yeah all in the links section.
Is couple threads discussing few details on them

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t5301-useful-pdf-files-software-info-on-the-gtir-easy-download-from-google-drive
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4215-obd

search results clicky


I like OBD SCAN TECH NISSAN V1.29
I find newer version than 1.29 crashes on all versions of windows I tested it on
scan tech nissan source code is what nissan data scan branched off from .

can't go wrong with those cables, every owner should have one .

as for reading eprom chips you need different equipment .
You daughter board probably the usual 2 eprom chip type that needs chips read/flashed offboard then fitted to daughterboard. is a cock when no details on chips or ecu .

Have a good weekend testing out your interface and some software :-)

Cheers for that Mr B, much appreciated.

So you reckon that "OBD SCAN TECH NISSAN V1.29" or earlier is possibly more reliable on windows. I'll download a copy of it from your google drive (cheers for that too btw!)
Unfortunately I've only just bought the cable but don't physically have it yet. Its hopefully going to be with me next week but I'd obviously like to have one or two things sitting waiting for it so I can get stuck in as soon as it arrives; I'm not good at waiting for stuff!

As for reading the chips, I was kinda hoping something like Nistune could be used for that? If not then I'm not overly fussed. If I can read live data from the car then that's going to be a massive leap forward in comparison to my mutlimeter!

You got any pics of ecu board ?
Nistune no use unless it a nistune board .
If you got pics post them and see if anyone know recognise it .

Live data and fault codes is useful, ecu is pretty basic logic though but for price of those interfaces every R should have one in the glovebox lol .

Feel free try the newer software as easy go back to 1.29 if you get same crash result I did, more that test it better, I had same result on 2 notebooks .

Hello Mike,

Ecutalk, Scantech, Conzult and Nissan Data Scan are all good free software. Between them you can do everything you need. My favorite is the paid for NDS because you get GTR dials and it's only ~£30

When you install your usb device make sure the internet is switched OFF. You need to install the FTDI drivers which they provide. Here: - https://drive.google.com/file/d/11o2jz_XCXorhAgoLXTBcG3D_wLy3wbwG/view

If the internet is switched on there is a good chance your computer will try and automatically install the latest drivers which might not be backwards compatible, and it's a pain in the arse to remedy if you are not familiar with FTDI drivers. I would be happy to help if you get stuck...

As well as the links mr b mentioned, Ecutalk here - http://www.ecutalk.com.au/ecutalk.aspx
(copy and paste to browser url) - http://www.ecutalk.com.au/downloads/ECUTalk_v1.3.5.exe

Conzult here - http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/index.htm
(copy and paste to browser url) - http://300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/software/free_conzult.exe

Send us some pictures of your ECU board. Someone will recognize the chips. They will probably be ATMEL ones...

If the chip/ecu is a Calumsult board or Nistune board then you can program it via Nistune software.

If it is a generic ATMEL EPROM chip like mines-ecu etc then you need a programmer to map it... Like this:
https://www.shopclues.com/atmel-8051-and-avr-usb-microcontroller-programmer-burner.html

Really not worth the hassle when Nistune ecus are only £140.

There's some good pictures in my thread here to give you inspiration if you plan to make a permanent install...

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t6348-nissan-diagnostics-on-windows-and-android

Good luck!

Adam

Thanks for the input Mr B & Adam, much appreciated.
I was hoping to get the ECU out and opened at the weekend but no such joy. I'll definitely do that this weekend coming or sooner so bear with me.
When I first got the ECU I opened it up for a quick visual inspection and don't remember seeing any identification on the chipset. In saying that it was well stuck to the mother board with PVA (?) glue so I couldn't lift it up at all.
I'll post back when I've had a good poke around (ooo er!)

cheers,

mike

Ok, so I finally managed to get ECUtalk up and running last night.
The attached (poor quality) video clip shows the car idling, after sitting cooling down for a couple of hours.
I'm not an expert by any means but, I would think that while the engine is running the timing shouldn't be wildly swinging around like that, should it? Even during warm up?
The reason I'm picking up on that is because I still sporadically get a code 11 coming up, once in a while.
Could my CAS actually be getting a bit geriatric?
Also, might be linked to this or not but, the car still seems to be running rich at WOT, as I can sometimes see a 'smog' trail behind it when ragging it. This doesn't happen all the time though and when it does, the car definitely doesn't feel like its running right. Soot on the tailgate is still a common sight too  
I guess its better than running rich though so maybe not all that bad  :p
what do you guys think then, does this seem ok or is there something wrong here?

cheers,

mike

https://youtu.be/GduzOfcLW7o

You do get some timing flutter at idle on these as ecu swings timing to control idle speed  .
Try the scan tech nissan software and see how that compares on data results.
Seems you getting cas fault code it worth checking the disc housing not getting oil soaked and also looking at wear in the drive, cam chain and related parts can also cause issues as can damaged harmonic balancer or some of the awful alloy crank pulley's . want check cas wiring and check tps function/setup .
Some of your rich running could also be ecu you got as lot of those generic daughterboard chips had pretty rich wot fuelling .
You had any other faults, codes or parts recently . think I remember you swapping out maf ...

Ive already checked the inside of the cas and it was spotless, although i obviously couldnt see the diodes. TBH i havent checked the other things you mention but i could time the ignition using a light so i guess the pulley is ok? Tps has been checked and adjusted though.
Ive opened the ecu up at both sides but still couldnt see any identifying marks on it. The workmanship inside it is excellent though, very neat and professional looking. If im looking at the correct part of it, it looks like the little jumpers been moved over too.
Ive got a couple of spare mafs but chnging them doesn't seem to make any difference
Anyway, have a look at the pics and see what you guys think...
Cheers,
Mike

ok, so I tried to do some logging with it last night, only for it to stop logging before I got out on the open road. The attached file is starting the car from cold, then driving along in traffic.

To me, the timing still seems to be jumping around an awful lot but I'm no expert. Any thoughts on this?

I'll try to get a log done at WOT tonight on my way home which should be a little more exciting!

cheers,

mike


(hopefully the file appears as it was playing silly buggers with me!)

ok so I got a WOT run yesterday (log attached).
If you look at lines 2934-2998 this is where the magic happens.
It looks like there's around 28 degrees timing at 2900rpm, but after this is drops to 20 degrees up to 6000 rpm.
As said I'm no expert but, I would've thought that rev range would require maximum advance wouldn't it? If its not advancing enough, surely then its effectively running with retarded timing?
I swapped the standard ECU back in last night so will try and get a comparative log done (don't worry, I turned the boost down too!)

Apparently the timing is even worse on the stock ecu... 
look at lines 1088-1219

you done a road drive log

what you could do if got a 1M ohm resistor is bypass det sensor and see if timing alters just for functioning test .
timing on oem ecu don't run much advance and the chipped boards always have slightly more advance as was easy improvement .
Your best bet if concerned is rolling road check on timing and fuelling and tweak what can, want check all basics good first though or wastes lot of money .

Great minds think alike Mr B, ive already got some 1M ohm resistors in post to eliminate knock sensor. Will post results once ive tried it