ajustable fuel pressure regulator

hi there im goin to be taking my pulsar back up to fusion for another remap soon,with the mods i have sould easy see around 450bhp, is there any need to fit a ajustable fuel pressure regulator? thanks sy

What bhp are you running now. ..? With what mods? i would think at that kind of figures i would say yes. ..

made 369bhp last time but stoped there due to standard gearbox.
iv got a
forged engine,
steel rods,
hks 264 cams
nismo ecu
gt3071 turbo
720cc injectors
z32 maf
iv also got a quaife box ready to fit and 3" inch exhaust system and turbo elbow,
uprated fuel pump

You got quite a hi spec r then. ... I couldnt really say wether the fpr is up to that kind of bhp maybe some other members will be able to point you in the right direction. but like all these pulsars are getting on in age and oe parts getting tired so imo i would change it before a tune up so it can be set up with the car.

Guess it all depends on your duty cycle, what has ed advised so far? Or has he not worked on the car before?

yea edd set it up for me lst time but i havent spoke with him since,gues i should contact him and see what he sais.

above 400 area i would be thinking bout it but you might be running different duty or pressure on 720s ps be carefull if you buy one as alot of cheap copies about that dont hold pressure or they do and dont last long

ok thanks yea its a propa sard one im lookin at a guy near me is selling it,just missed the external wastegate n stainless manifold he was selling to

sy84 wrote:made 369bhp last time but stoped there due to standard gearbox.
iv got a
forged engine,
steel rods,
hks 264 cams
nismo ecu
gt3071 turbo
720cc injectors
z32 maf
iv also got a quaife box ready to fit and 3" inch exhaust system and turbo elbow,
uprated fuel pump

Surely you already have an uprated fuel pump if your car has made 369hp? Im not sure but i would of thought you would need 800cc injectors to make 450hp? (without the adjustable fpr)

yea m8 have a uprated pump fitted but standard presure regulator

just spoke to edd and he said b good idear to fit fuel pressure regulator but re wire the fuel pump

Thats good then. .. Least your on the right path. ... Be good to see what you get on the dyno mate

yea edd said might not quite get to 450bhp but be near it,gues will have to see on the day

Would definitely agree with rewiring the fuel pump, I didn't do mine and when ed was setting it up I had problems with fueling and when checked the pumps was only receiving 11v on idle and 9v under load.

Rewired it and had to go back for another set up and rolling road session

iv asked edd to do it for me when i go up, he did explain how to do it but rather let him do it tbh,im picking up the fpr later this week,its all starting to come togther now got some good bits goin on over the nxt few weeks

Was it easy to do bucky? i just relocated my my battery to boot so its on my to do list.

Yeah mate really simple if your battery is already in the boot your crazy not too. Some 30 amp cabling, 12v switch relay and an inline fuse and cut.

Here's a guide from The oc
http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?59944-Direct-battery-power-to-fuel-pump&highlight=rewire+fuel+pump

I cant view the clicky as im not a member on the oc so a direct feed from the battery then?

Direct battery power to fuel pump
To increase voltage too and re earth the fuel pump.

Basically it involves running a power feed direct to the fuel pump via a 12v switching relay to increase the voltage available to the pump and at the same time improve the fuel pumps earthing points.......

It is best done if you have upgraded your fuel pump (Walbro or equivalent) and having fitted your battery in the boot to make life a little easier.

Solder all cable joints and insulate the joints well.

Run a length of 30 amp cable from the battery to a 12v switching relay (with pins 85,86 ,87,30) which can be located next to the fuel pump cover. It would also pay to fit a fuse in this power line no more than 12 inches from the battery.
Connect this power cable to pin 87 of the relay. This is the new power feed for the pump, not the relay switching feed.
Cut the stock live feed at the fuel pump plug leaving an inch or so of cable, strip this cable back and solder one end of a another length of 30 amp cable to the cable at the plug end solder the other end of this to pin 30.
Solder the other end of the cable you've just cut (the OE pump power feed) to relay pin 86 (this is the switch power feed for the relay).
Solder a short length of the 30 amp cable to pin 85 and earth this as close as possible. I think I cut the original earth feed from the pump plug and soldered it here too, then soldered a 30 amp earth cable to the fuel pump plug and earthed that to the same place as the relay.

You need to keep the original fuel pump relay in as, you're still using that feed, to switch the new relay on and off.
It should be noted that you won't get any voltage on the pump side of the relay, unless the fuel pump is priming (the 2 or 3 seconds after you turn the ignition on) or the engine is running. That may sound strange but, the fuel pump only needs to operate at these times so, that's how it works.

So, if you're trying to measure a voltage on the fuel pump side of the relay, without the ecu priming the pump or the engine running, you won't get a reading.

I think i get it would be better with pics though