Oil pressure

This is what my spa gauge is telling me on tick over, it's in lbs. does this look ok?
And unrelated I've just had my mot and on the drive home the temperature is getting extremely hot, had to stop in a lay by and let it cool down! The fans are working, so going to check there isn't an air lock when I get back

that pressure seems fine (little under 2bar) for warm idle, they vary a bit pending on build clearances, pump, shimmed pressure valve etc and exact type/grade oil used .
Was any work done for mot that would of involved coolant system being touched ?
were you on site during the mot so no chance they out wazzing it on road .
I would look for any minor leaks from rad hoses and pump etc, check rad cap, thermostat and system holding pressure & pull plugs see tips don't show any signs of steam cleaning.
Can try a bleed if nothing found but if been untouched and not leaking it shouldn't have airlock.

That's good about the oil pressure then! No I was with them throughout the mot, since I've had the engine back in I've had no issues up till today, I was getting a hot top pipe and a cold bottom one with no pressure, so topped it all up, squeezed the pipes and took it out and the same, fiddled a little more and now it seems ok......all though the bottom pipe is now pressurised it feels cold?! I'm getting hot air on the blowers inside

Check thermostat, for price of them get a new one, buy good one such as oem or BluePrint as they tend work way better .

Best way to check? I.e once removed is there something specific to look for?

Check no obvious physical defects or gunked up and test in water with thermostat that it opening correctly and at correct temp range.
has procedure in workshop manual including fitting orientation of the thermostat (take note when pull it out)

My thermostat has fucked and caused loads of issues.
When I removed it. It almost fell apart it was that fucked.
Cant remember where I bought the new one from.

So it doesn't seem to be overheating now but the bottom pipe is cold and the top is hot, both pressurised, would this point to the thermostat?

Next question, is the thermostat in here?

^Yes (see pdf below to help)

Could be, it easy to look at and cheap replace so a good area start a  check more so if you know it likely an old/unknown one.
any factors can get one or buy Blueprint ADN19214 or Gates TH04277G1 online

PDF link below on coolant system, thermostat >
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfSmtoWWFGOTJFbDA/view?usp=sharing

That's great! Cheers b, I'll take it out over the weekend and have a look

do remember you have a bleed bolt on the thermostat housing, bolt on left opposite the earth strap one. This will help in bleeding system along with slowly adding coolant which gives time for air move out and not getting trapped due to rapid water level change .

What's the standard opening temperature as I have an option of different stats with different temperatures 76 •c is the 1st one it's listing

76.5 going by fsm data.
Most aftermarkets are listed as 77 (P/N's I gave are both 77degC)
nismo etc do lower temp ones, about 62degC . I would say 76-77 about ideal for your region.
mishimoto do a 68 and that about as low as I would go for a more track use or constant fast road or hot climate, like most mishimoto they not nice price .
when testing a thermostat you need see it lifting well/fully as even if opens it won't flow enough water if not getting full lift . Any doubts you best banging in a new one as at about £10 it not expensive or bad thing do .

This reminded me to sort mine out. Hardly any heat is coming out the heater so i reckon the thermostat is stuck open. Its bitter on the drive home from work.
I paid £13.50 from Europarts, bargain.

Gates are about £11 and blueprint £15, is one BluePrint on eBay for 9.99 at moment . Any motorfactor should have them but try stick to decent brands when can .
@ Cosmic . could also of been airlock in heater circuit as can be pain, want bleed it with heater circuit open if still get poor heating from it .

Its had the last 7 months to bleed with heater fully open. Also engine takes ages to warm up.
If it was an airlock surely it would've burped out by now

they can hold in heater matrix for ever and only bleed with cap off thermostat housing screw out and burping. If been running real cool then indeed very likely thermostat not full closing but air lock in heater matrix is common one, they can run stone cold with bad airlock.
Hope it sorted as got to suck being cold .

Anyway, whats with the profile pic?
Why do you need a power tool for that socket extension?
I thought the immense energy your GTIR brain generates would be enough?

That's how I start the old brain, it takes bit of extra cranking at times lol .
Use tools in ears to reduce decibels from the wife too, she been giving me ball ache today :-/

Looks like it's the thermostat l, took it out and put it in a boiling kettle and it doesn't budge! Going to get a new blue print one ordered

Sorted, nice easy fix .
BluePrint on eBay at £9.99 all in delivered
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-SUNNY-GTi-PULSAR-GTi-NISSAN-200SX-THERMOSTAT-ADN19214-Nissan-thermosta-/301775993254
box looks bit scruffy, probably old stock.

Got the new thermostat in and all is well

I fitted my new one the other day and its made fuck all difference,
Still only a trickle of warmth coming out the heater.
Ive bled and burped it so i dont know what the problem is.

Is the lever connected and moving the heater valve/vent fully. Air trapped in heater matrix is common one and can be pita remove. You can have say 2 thirds full of air and only a third with coolant so it flows bit of coolant but not much heat transfer. You could disconnect heater hoses (are both these hoses getting hot) and run some water through it to check not blocked and perhaps will also shift some air or sludge as could be blocked with sludge perhaps (if water looks dirty try running water through in reverse flow with a mains hose). If flows water fine and clean reconnect and try some more bleeding and hope get it working .