Gtir erratic acceleration

Hello guys, long time reader and firs time poster, I've come to a point where I don't know what to do anymore because of confusing and contradicting information on the internet. Hopefully you guys can shed some light on this?

So here goes:
I braught a gtir a couple of months ago and it always had this problem, it accelerates erraticly, eg:  it comes on power than loses it then gains it again and so on.
At first I thaught "water in the dizzy" because probably the Moran washed the engine with a pressure washer from the top... Anyway I checked the dizzy and the seal is missing about 1cm on the bottom of it and with that massive scoop the gtir has and no top mouth intercooler ( got a front mount) humidity would seep in over night and a lot of corrosion would accour on the pins, so much that I had to scrape them every 1-2 weeks but every time I did this the car felt better but still had this hesitation on acceleration, also checked the spark plugs(after buying the car)  and they had water on top, so I cleaned that  and water hasn't reappeared, after this I checked for boost leaks with a conpressor going from after the first pipe  of the intercooler bolted to the turbo and plugged just before the inletmanifold. Pressuruzed to 2 bar and nothing, I wasn't happy so I kept looking and hey Presto I found some horrible things, first immage is the big 2,5 cm diameter rubber tube that comes out the bottom of the manifold about 5 cm after the intercooler piping ends (where is this capped piping suppose to be plummed to?) 
Then I took the intercooler piping off the turbo and what a supprise another seal missing a cm... I repleced that..
Then checkedt the piping from the turbo to the air filter. And here I have to say I am so appauld... Sikaflex stuck in 2 side holes.. (what if it dislodged and went in the turbo? I can't believe this...)
Anyway I plugged those holes and tested it and the car seemed to go much much better but it still has this hesitation!!! And it's getting worse to the point I can no longer drive it now, 
Yesterday I checked injectors as there is a ticking sound coming from the engine and the first injector (where the ticking sound is coming from) signed 0 ohms and all others say 2 ohms  the injectors are Jecs A46-00 yellow top which by jecs specification should be 11.2 so I checked them again and now all 4 are reading 2 ohms? So now I am like wtf...
I know that gtirs have low impendence incjectors but to be sure could someone checked their injectors?
I'm going to check the fuel pump this weekend,
Soory for te long post guys I didn't mean too but there is so much stuff I need to understand

Thanks in advance guys!

The capped pipe is what would go to the factory recirc valve then into the oe intake pipe going onto the turbo after the maf .... have you done a fault code check by bridging the pins .... could be detecting det ... anymore info on the car would help .... ecu etc ????

Heres how if you dont know already ...
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t81-ecu-fault-code-check

I would replace the ignition amp. Dizzy cap and rotor arm and ht leads and see how that goes. If you say cleaning the terminals inside the dizzy cap made it better.
Fault code first tho.
And what are the plugs gapped at? Should be 0.7
Has the car been off the road for a long time?
What fuel are you using?
Can you post a picture of the engine bay please.

Voltage to fuel pump or filters restricting flow ? What Intercooler pipes like ? They ain't sucking in under boost ?

So I checked faults and apparently it's 55 so no problem there,
I recently changed fuel filter so I'll check that it's the right one as it came with the car, also an oil filter came with it but was the wrong one so could be but I doubt it.
I'll change the ing amplifier and take an amp measurement on the leads to the fuel pump tomorrow and if Nissan has been generous with us and equipped the gtir with an access pannel to the fuel pump I'll check the voltage and ground
Johnny gtir what do you mean sucking in under boost? Do you mean collapsing under vacuum created from the intake of the turbo? If so I doupt it but I will check

Also my car is pretty much stock but had some work done to it at some point then returned to stock,
Also I'll change some vacuum lines as I found some nasty T's on the pressure regulator. Anyone got a vacuum lead diagram?

Vacum diagrams here .....
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t895-diagrams

So I checked the resistance on the ingnition coil and it's 9.35 kohms and should be approximately 10, to me that means that some of the isolation is deteriorated and it's skipping some coils. So I ordered a new coil and Baugh some new lead to while I was there. Can someone che their coil just to se what a good one would read?

Are you sure there's not a minimum and maximum for ohms of the coil? With the injectors the ohms spec of 11.2 is probably with all of them added together tested at the end of the loom.

Copied this from the ngk website but not sure core the leads are without looking.

Testing of ignition cables

If the ignition cable appears to be OK, its function can be measured using a multimeter

First, the ignition cable should be subjected to close visual inspection. If it is porous, has hairline cracks, oxidised contacts or other damage, it has to be replaced.

If the ignition cable appears to be OK, its function can be measured using a multimeter.

Set the multimeter to 20 kΩAttach one contact to each end of the cableRead the resistance

Permissible resistance values are:

Ignition cable with a copper core: 1 to 6.5 kΩInductive resistor and carbon resistor: The value is calculated based on the resistance per meter multiplied by the length of the cable, plus toleranceIgnition cables with inductive resistor: Here the resistance can be between 2.2 kΩ and 8 kΩIgnition cables with carbon resistor: The resistance per 1 m cable is 10 kΩ to 23 kΩ

Hello guys me again, so I recently changed ignition amplifier, leads, and plugs (bkr6eix-11) and yes you guessed it the problem is still there, yet again the car felt a lot better right after the las pull to my driveway and now it isles so raugh! Tomorrow I'll buy a fuel pressure gauge and test fuel pressure. You guys have any idea at what it could be I'm really running out of ideas..
P.s. dizzy cap and rotor arm on their way from GB

Last pull *
Idles raugh*

Plugs ngk bcr8es ....

I would be checking what your AFR's are during that time then go from there.

Where abouts are you?

How do I check that? I don't have a wideband for the moment.
And the plugs are iridium If that changes Something

And I'm in Australia Qld

Hello guys sorry to revive this thread but I I'm still here with a couple of problems, my car at the moment idles rough as, so I brought the car to a friend of a friend which had a Nissan consult tool obd 1 and it came back that the cam angle sensor was faulty, which makes sense since I changed the whole ignition except for the cas, so I buy a second hand one of a friend and nothing the car dosent even start .
Alright maybe my friend had it sitting on a shelf for a reason and it's even worse then my one.
But I had a chance to open up my distributor to get to the sensor and it's all full of oil everywhere, I guess this really could be the problem as if oil gets on the disk of the sensor it could "obstruct" the view on the little windows on the sensors disk and give no reading and consequently I get all my problems. What do you guys think? Maybe intercghanging some parts from my dizzy to this one if it dosent leak oil?

Can you not get a new one mate not that expensive ?

Did u plug the CAS plug into the correct harness plug? The gearbox sensor and uses the same 4 pin plug

Well I didn't disconnect my gear box sensor so I doupt it, plus I opened up this dizzy too now and the disc of the sensor is completely different it's only got 5 big slots compared to my one which has 4 slots on the inside and millions of slots on the outside...
I tried another second hand one with the right sensor disc and nothing car won't start again.. I fit my old one in to check I connected everything correctly and yep car starts but still idles rough..
Plus car was shooting out code 11 and 21 with the other distributor..

So I've got an update for you guys, it seems one of the 2 little wires on my maf was rusted, and when I unplugged my maf while the car was running the car didn't misfire anymore but did idle up to around 15-1800 rpm then had some sort of fuel cut and went back to 900 rpm and then starts to idle up again and repeat the process until I plug the maf back which will start misfiring every 5 seconds but still keep a steady 900rpm

worth cleaning up maf plugs/wiring & get plenty elec contact cleaner to wash them out or even new plug & bit of elec contact spray help protect it.
Is problem fully resolved !
nissan obd cable is cheap & some software free so worth getting one > http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4215-obd
Fuel ratio meter useful thing have wired up too, great for diagnosis & potential engine saver .

I tried cleaning the maf with the right maf cleaner, but it's rusted not dirty..
I just decided that this IS the problem and since I'm fitting a haltech I won't be needing it so bin it is