Boot Lid Window removal.

Hi,

How the hell do you remove the rear window? Is it bonded in like the front?  I need to sand the boot ready for paint, but preferably would like to take the glass out and replace the moulding, looking a bit pants:





If it is bonded, then might leave it. Front screen was fairly easy to remove, needed new glass anyway stone chips etc, but the rear glass is mint so dont really want to damage it.

Gaz

Its bonded in. A right ball ache to remove!!

Stu wrote:Its bonded in. A right ball ache to remove!!

Bugger, staying where it is then! cheers Stu

Window removal is not badley priced get the front and rear out together or take the tail gate to a local place should only charge 10-15 to remove it

johnny gtir wrote:Window removal is not badley priced get the front and rear out together or take the tail gate to a local place should only charge 10-15 to remove it

Good Idea that mate, will phone around tomorrow

Dont need the windscreen taking out, I did that and replaced it with brown paper, hopefully passes the MOT

What colour you doing the car?
Have you used a compressor etc?
First time painting a car?

Yeah very intrested in this ... as im doing mine shortly when i pull my finger out of course ???

Going for the rare Black colour mate Got a large compressor coupled with 50m complicated copper pipe run to remove moisture from air, with two Norgren Olympian filter/reg either side of garage. Works a treat, especiallly when coupled with Devilbiss GTi Pro Lite.

But all this doesnt stop dust and Flies, doh!

Ive been involved with a ongoinging thread on Mig welding forum, trying a non iso 2k paint. It was looking really promising, results were really good. BUT the problem I had with it plus many others is it stays soft, even after 6 weeks you can still make a impression in it with moderate pressure. After a long battle with it, ive decided to sack it off. Going for good old health destroying normal 2K, but as I cant be arsed investing in a airfed and another compressor, triple stage filter etc im getting the colour done in a paint shop. Im prepping it all and spraying Lechler 2k Epoxy Primer (ace stuff, and doesnt contain isocyanates), then off to paint shop.

Shame, as I wanted to spray it, even if I had an airfed system I value my life and everyone around me, so not prepared to spray 2K in a residential area.

Ive already sprayed the interior black KH3 and the whole underside, but did that in Lechler solvent base with UPOL 1K Clear, unside is

Alot of what you just said went over my head lol
Was the paint that didn't harden. Supposed to be baked or something. Bummer that it didn't work out for you...
Good call with the 2k paint! That shit is a killer!
Good that you can prep the car yourself. That should reduce the cost loads

Non iso 2pack ive not heard of that .... ive bought cellulose already ..  ive read the write up on migweb ... the how to guide ... bloody good read that lots of helpful tips etc ... allthough my compressor isnt that big or complex  as your set up i do have a water trap on it now ... some nice guns those devbliss fair price too

The paint is normal 2k paint, but instead of mixing 2k hardener with it, you mix a non iso hardener which changes it from chemical curing (normal 2k) to air drying. Problem being you apply it very lightly so it can flash of then apply another coat lightly. It retains the same gloss and flows out very well like normal 2k, but unfortunelty just stays soft, ok you can touch it etc and doesnt leave a mark but applying moderate pressure to it does. Think if I sprayed the panels with it, and someone leaned in it, I could guarantee it would leave the impression of jeans or what ever they were wearing in the paint.

Shame as it would have been a great DIY paint, far superior than celly. Dodgy stuff is 2K, a bloke I was doing some work for uses it at home, hes never had a problem, but then you can read some horror stories about it. Playing safe myself, want to enjoy the car when its finished

Im spraying my mates van in 2pk have a proper breathing mask where the air is filtered not sure how well that will work ... as you said ive heard proper horror stories about it ....

nomad wrote:Non iso 2pack ive not heard of that .... ive bought cellulose already ..  ive read the write up on migweb ... the how to guide ... bloody good read that lots of helpful tips etc ... allthough my compressor isnt that big or complex  as your set up i do have a water trap on it now ... some nice guns those devbliss fair price too

Its been around for a while, mixed reviews about it, the pros slate it, but have seen some very good results with it. The non iso part is a unibinder by Valspar called UD429, very thick stuff bit like honey compared to thin 2k hardener, you also need to add more thinner to it compared to normal 2k, resulting in more reactions because of thinner content, the non iso primer is especially bad for this, hence why I am using the Lechler epoxy primer.

I was orginally going to use Celly, used it many times before but decided for the 2k route this time. Barcoat will be your friend with celly!! spray a coat of that before applying celly, will stop reactions from other paint types underneath reacting with the high thinner content of celly.

Im doing a complete colour change so use that after the primer ???

I just read its used before primer

Barcoat ..........that's very useful info as I've had that problem in past with various paint reactions and it can be a nightmare.

I started using 2pk years ago and used it with a carbon filter mask and I'm still alive lol, not the safest stuff in the world to use but great finish straight from the gun where as cellulose requires lots of after work to achieve the finish your looking for.
I would deffo use 2pk again in a well vented garage but can see why people won't use the stuff

I use 2k as I find it an easy paint to use and dries hard fast, regards the mask I bought a 2k mask for about £20. Problem is it's good for 80hours so when you've done with it you need to put it in a sealable plastic bag that comes with the mask

Still not got round to removing the glass, but the painters have said to me they want it removed. Checked with Nissan today to see whats available:

Moulding Back Door - 90352-50C00 - £102.34
Glass - 90300-50C00 - N/A

So does this mean, if getting the glass removed and it cracks theres no replacement at all? could the likes of Autoglass etc can get them made?

Gaz

You can buy plexiglass ones. My yellow rally gtir had one in.
I didnt crack ny rear screen when i removed it. And i used a kitchen knife to cut through the bonding lol

^kitchen knife

Bob will sell a boot with glass if the worst happens so you won't be stuck

Contacted local firm, removing rear screen, storing it and refitting plus supplying & fitting new front screen £160

Thats a good price.
Front screens are around £110 so thats a good price on labour and sealant...

I paid 130 for my front screen... so think thats a fair price ...