well im done

Check behind the glove box another common place for alarms in a R

If its a crap alarm shouldn't be too difficult. Mine took about 30 seconds to remove

Cobra should of been fitted with cat 1 guidelines meaning solder joints & wiring neatly routed, loomed & fed into existing looms to make harder follow.
Still quite easy remove the good fitted ones as long as take time to work through wiring without upsetting anything else.
main areas requiring rejoining will be 2 immobilizer circuits followed by indicators & central locking pending how it wired in & if any additional modules used or your main alarm having all functions ability directly.
If you see model numbers on main alarm box google it as you may find the wiring harness map which will aid removal a bit.
Main requirement will be bit of time & patience over technical skill ...

So done an error code check and coming back with a 34, anyone know what that is?

Det sensor it appears, ive reset it and see if it comes back but how hard is it to change or any other advice on this?

Digitalfaze wrote:Det sensor it appears, ive reset it and see if it comes back but how hard is it to change or any other advice on this?

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t3079p15-det-sensor

Get a used tested det sensor from bob or use a local breaker to borrow 1 or 2 as they fitted on a huge range of nissans.
* do check wiring & plug first though *
Blueprint do one: ADN17210
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADN17210-Blueprint-Knock-Sensor-Nissan-PRIMERA-/361084812554?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item541254fd0a
Cheaper sensors can be found but most are not a piezo crystal & nothing more than a 1Mohm resistor  to keep ecu happy so buy with care.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Knock-Sensor-Nissan-300ZX-Almera-Maxima-Pathfinder-Primera-Pick-Up-Serena-/151466407280?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item234419f570
Going to breaker can be good as can pull it from a lot newer car than the R

Cheers very much,  it hasnt got the code again after the reset but im gonna change it anyway.

Mr b your a wealth of knowledge! And rep to you as you always quote part numbers, thanks

As not urgent I would look at pulling a spare or 2 from a breakers yard as environmentally friendly & wallet friendly :-D
These knock sensors where on huge range of nissans (list below)
is possible wiring plug dirty so removing that & cleaning with contact spray is a good first move, you can test the feed voltage to the sensor & resistance across the sensor to see if in parameters. To be honest it quite a common sensor to play up in old age.
Quality new knock sensors are quite expensive.
The blueprint ones tend be around £90 up to over £140
Worth trying local factors as price should be better than eBay.
Have a huge range of prices on eBay but most of the cheap stuff is either purely resistor so ecu don't show fault or very poor quality piezo sensor that don't work well or last long.
Do see a few used or new genuine sensors on eBay too so worth a hunt.
Nissan part number is 2206030P00

some Nissans using this sensor >
will find sane sensor on some renaults & a few mitsi's

Manufacturer\Model\Type     > KW    > YEAR FROM - TO
NISSAN TERRANO I (WD21) 3.0 i 4WD 109 01.1990 - 12.1995
NISSAN 300 ZX (Z32) 3.0 Twin Turbo 208 05.1990 - 09.1995
NISSAN 300 ZX (Z32) 3.0 Twin Turbo 197 05.1990 - 09.1995
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 16V 85 06.1990 - 01.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 16V 85 06.1990 - 01.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 GT 110 06.1990 - 01.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 110 06.1990 - 01.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 105 06.1990 - 04.1993
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 105 06.1990 - 04.1993
NISSAN PRIMERA Traveller (W10) 2.0 i 85 07.1990 - 03.1998
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 112 09.1990 - 01.1996
NISSAN PULSAR V Hatchback (N14) 2.0 GTI 16V 105 10.1990 - 05.1995
NISSAN SUNNY III Liftback (N14) 2.0 i 16V 105 10.1990 - 05.1995
NISSAN 100 NX (B13) 2.0 110 10.1990 - 10.1994
NISSAN PULSAR V Hatchback (N14) 2.0 GTI-R 4x4 162 10.1990 - 05.1995
NISSAN 100 NX (B13) 2.0 GTI 105 03.1991 - 10.1994
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 GT 4x4 105 03.1991 - 04.1993
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 4x4 110 03.1991 - 04.1993
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 16V 4x4 85 04.1991 - 06.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 16V 4x4 85 04.1991 - 06.1996
NISSAN SERENA (C23M) 2.0 16V 93 11.1992 - 09.2001
NISSAN 200 SX (S14) 2.0 i 16V 118 10.1993 - 12.1999
NISSAN 200 SX (S14) 2.0 i 16V Turbo 147 10.1993 - 12.1999
NISSAN PRIMERA (P10) 2.0 i 92 01.1995 - 06.1996
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P10) 2.0 i 92 01.1995 - 06.1996
NISSAN MAXIMA QX III (A32) 3.0 142 01.1995 - 08.2000
NISSAN MAXIMA QX III (A32) 2.0 103 02.1995 - 08.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I (N15) 1.4 GX,LX 55 09.1995 - 07.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I (N15) 1.4 64 09.1995 - 07.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I Hatchback (N15) 1.4 S,GX,LX 55 09.1995 - 03.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I Hatchback (N15) 1.4 64 09.1995 - 03.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I Hatchback (N15) 1.6 SR,SLX 66 09.1995 - 03.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I Hatchback (N15) 1.6 73 09.1995 - 03.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I (N15) 1.6 SLX 66 09.1995 - 07.2000
NISSAN ALMERA I (N15) 1.6 73 09.1995 - 07.2000
NISSAN PRIMERA Traveller (WP11) 2.0 16V 85 06.1996 - 12.2001
NISSAN PRIMERA Traveller (WP11) 2.0 16V 140 06.1996 - 05.1999
NISSAN ALMERA I Hatchback (N15) 2.0 GTi 105 07.1996 - 03.2000
NISSAN PRIMERA (P11) 2.0 16V 96 09.1996 - 12.2001
NISSAN PRIMERA (P11) 2.0 16V 110 09.1996 - 12.2001
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P11) 2.0 16V 110 09.1996 - 07.2002
NISSAN PRIMERA (P11) 2.0 16V 85 09.1996 - 12.2001
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P11) 2.0 16V 96 09.1996 - 07.2002
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P11) 2.0 16V 85 09.1996 - 07.2002
NISSAN MAXIMA Station Wagon 2.0 QX 103 10.1997 - ...
NISSAN MAXIMA Station Wagon 3.0 QX 142 10.1997 - ...
NISSAN PRIMERA Traveller (WP11) 2.0 16V 96 04.1998 - 12.2001
NISSAN PRIMERA Hatchback (P11) 2.0 16V 103 08.1999 - 07.2002
NISSAN PRIMERA Traveller (WP11) 2.0 16V 103 08.1999 - 12.2001
NISSAN ALMERA TINO (V10) 2.0 100 08.2000 - ...

So fitted the new rad pipes and filled radiator up, took for a drive and it was leaking even worse, thats when i knew it wasnt the radiator, seems the clips were not tight enough, so i tightened them up and seems the leak has stopped happy days the 34 error code hasnt come back since the reset so im gonna monitor it and see, cheers for the help everyone

Seems you resolving most thing easily, did you pull old alarm & tidy up wiring ? det sensor wouldn't of caused your non start issue but worth keeping eye on & changing if get further code or running symptom of bad sensor.

as mr B said in above

could possibly be an old error code or if engine had overheated could have detected knock at that time (pinking) but now overheating issue is sorted may be ok


one tip..............do not buy the sensors that are dirt cheap on ebay as they are wrong impedance and do not work, also the ones from a Scooby look identical but once again also will not work
if needed we have some good used ones and we check the ohms reading prior to sending them out so you know there gonna be ok when fitted

I cut a cheap one up that supplied for a subaru, was nothing more than a resistor in the moulding but at prices like £6.99 & £12.99 you can't expect much more & those chinese are experts at selling this dodgy shit through eBay.
Only NTK & JEC make the proper spec/quality that I know of, Possibly some of the chinese ones could be good but I wouldn't want waste any time & money finding out really .
Best & cheapest option is a genuine used one. Either off Bob or if you out & about at breakers take the opertunity to pocket one or 2 & keep bagged on the shelf ...
The blueprint sensor is good but it not super cheap.

yeah thanks bob, i read a post warning about the cheap ones so ill monitor it for now and see if it comes back

Broke down again, aa came out tested lots of stuff and the 2 plugs in the fuelpump only 1 is getting power

Have you taken the alarm out?

No ive not had time to take that out yet

Ah ok was wondering if it was still happening after that. Might be quicker so try and run a seperate power to the fuel pump as Bob mentioned. Then whenever you have time remove the alarm.

Well when the fuel pump was fitted the guy done that, but i dont even know where it connects to to check the wiring incase its loose

Being intermittent but total failure like you're getting would seem likely iffy relay or linked to old alarm mess maybe.
Even though you got new pump wiring it will be running through a relay that triggered off the old original pump feed if done easy way (bad way of doing it as have 2 relays when only need 1) or the original pump feed relay switch feed if done a bit better.
Point here being fault due to old immobilizer wiring or original pump wiring & relays will cause issues on the new circuit.
If is indeed pump power issue as aa man suggesting then not a big issue to resolve.
I would probably go whole hog & rip out old alarm as will see then if routed into pump circuit.
Secondly I would probably revise or redo the pump circuit wiring & make sure it using only 1 quality relay & relay triggered direct from original ignition switching feed.
Can you not see the new cable pump end & trace it back ?
Do you see any new relay in engine bay that could be new pump circuit ?

The oe wiring runs under the back seat in the middle it has a connecter just there.... i would presume hes taken the switch wire from it ....

So an update, when the aa bridged the relay in the engine i got a constant clicking from my brake light, i thought wtf so after reading a bit more into running the 12 v feed that bob taøked about i realised the constant clicking was coming from a relay which protuner put into the car when they fitted the fuel pump, so i followed the wire back to the battery and the red terminal was really loose and the spade connector for the fuel pump feed was shredded and loose (was still attached), im going to replace the terminal, spade connector and relay in boot, reading that the constant clicking from the relay means its goosed?

Yeah mr b its 1 relay beside my brake light, looks rather tidy

Is your battery in the Boot ?
If it using original pump supply feed for new relay it a shit way of doing it but understandable if battery in boot.
What I do if battery in boot is bridge original switch feed for relay to the pump feed wire thus turning pump feed into direct switch feed to new relay in rear & completely removing original relay.
If battery under bonnet you want new relay under bonnet & switched from original pump relay switching feed.
I don't use relays from parts store/autofactors as quality is shit, go down the breakers & borrow quality OEM relays from  newish jap cars :-)
Is possible rewire to original fusebox relay making super tidy & minimal connections.
If relay clicking it either bad or switching circuit bad (loose/bad joins/connectors that you found) certainly good to replace relay too as if been flickering on/off constantly it won't be much good.
If car still not starting it should be easier sus the fault & know you fixed it fully once it does start.
Good luck ...

So why mr AA man need bridge original relay :-/ that would give me impression something wrong here too if the original relay not working with ignition on for initial prime ! (no switched high amp circuit due to dud relay or low amp relay switching circuit dead !?)

Well aa man didnt know there was another relay, ive actually got some progress and sounds like im winning at cars, so bought new terminal and too big so kicked something and jumped on my skateboard to get another, that was too big too so i raged a little and bodged the terminal (till i get another the right size) cut the old connectors off the fuel pump feed and put a new one on and a few washers and attached it all up again, and it sounds like my fuel pump is now priming! I cant start it because dead battery so need to wait till tonight, not going to hold my breath as that seemed too easy

^ fingers crossed
sounds like the culprit.
If your battery under bonnet I would just run new fused + cable off battery to original pump relay then from the relay onto pump following original harness.
Switching new relay from old relay never makes sense & having relay in boot by lights seems odd unless battery there too, if battery not in boot where this new pump feed sourced from ...
Main thing is getting it running though & hopefully you jobbed that :-D

Don't seem like nissan at fault either so can't blame the car or it's age, once again reliability hindered by probably less than decent effort on recent wiring work, chap who done that needs a connector stuck up his ass I think :-P