well im done

Just thinking the temp sensors for gauge & ECU are separate :-S .
gauge is single wire & ecu twin wire plug.
ICP does do both the sensors should you need them & no more than £10 each
Ideally you want do fault codes, check basics of dizzy cap, arm. ht leads. coil & engine earthing related to starting/cutout & check/change thermostat & fill coolant correctly & use car a bit & keep eye on things.
If you have some fault codes it could help but worth resetting & then reading again to see what comes up again thus recent problem.
Hold off buying too many parts at moment as best waiting for better diagnosis or more obvious symptoms to arise.

seems that my car wont start in the mornings, been monitoring what happens and sounds like my fuel pump in not priming, when it does the car starts fine, turn my key in the morning and there is no noise just silent, takes a few turns of the key to get it to prime

Check/change fuel pump relay as maybe sticky & wiring to pump, want see if pump getting good 12V also resistance of earth line. Could add a temporary earth line ground as a test.
You got any immobiliser on the fuel pump circuit !?
if got good voltage & earth but pump not running it could be pump as some of those walbro pumps are sloppy on reliability.
Shame you don't like elec testing:-/

Hows the water level & heating issue !?

could be connected to one of your electrical issues sye
try a feed directly to the pump from a different 12v supply and try it a few times to see if pump works every time, if so then run a separate feed and bypass the existing


sounds like you have a few different issues here
has this car got an immobiliser fitted by any chance?
if so it could well be this playing silly boogers and boogering about so that would be the first thing I would get rid of, more hassle than there worth






lol mr Bs beat me to it

its got a cobra alarm but suprise suprise it stopped working when i had all the electrical problems, so it has an alarm but it doesnt function and i dont know how its wired, when the fuel pump was fitted he said he run new wiring to the pump (there was a how to on this forum) but protuner recommended this was done anyway as the standard wiring can lose voltage being so old.

car isnt overheating anymore and its honestly driving better than it has in a long time but ive not inspected it for leaks, ill get it on the axle stands this weekend and check underneath the rad etc for any bad hoses, the plugs made a big difference to how it runs.

its not that i dont like elec testing its just i dunno how the hell to do it, i bought a multimeter but im clueless how to use it lol

if the alarm has stopped working chances are is that the immobilizer is still fitted/wired through the box, this could be the cause of many of your issues
remove it completely and re-connect the wiring

they are normally situated under the dash below steering wheel so if you remove the lower plastic panel youll se a black box with black wires going in and out of it
follow the wires and will eventually be connected to existing coloured wiring so cut them there and relink the wires back up and remove the unit completely

yeah that box sounds familiar, also what do the 2 relays at the battery side of the engine do? they are mounted on a metal bracket, these were replaced when i was having headlight issues and the bottom one seems to have a wire hanging off like its fallen off?

I hate alarms, I can remember one of your sprint days Bob my cousins 200SX alarm immobilized the whole car, cut the whole thing out and luckily it seemed to sort the problem. They can cause so many problems as Bob said I wouldn't be surprised if it was that causing some of your issues.

Defo got a coolant leak as its all wet on the plastic bit below the lower rad hose

Do you think its the hose or rad sye .... you put a new one on didnt you ????

Yeah was brand new im hoping its not the rad as that would just be a pain

Fingers crossed its just the hose split are they oe hoses .... could be just where jublee clamps round it ....

well least heating issue probably diagnosed & that good result in terms of cheap easy fix.
As Nomad said, highly likely joint, may need take pipe off clean inside up & refit & with decent new clamp if not already got one.
even getting new hose not costly.
If rad leaking you may get a replacement if you had it less than a year as you got it via company.
The 42mm & 50mm rads could be had for about £60 back in day when flooded with them on eBay.

yeah i was £140 or £160 for that radiator, was less than a year ago too so will be sending back if it is damaged, just an inconvenience really, ah well, im always rage quiting and it turns out not too bad lol

Lol, you quite unlucky but lucky if you know what I mean :-) as most your issues turn out easy & cheap.
Just need some effort on elecs to aid reliability & hopefully you sorted.
worth posting decent pics of wiring as may help in aiding response.

Digitalfaze wrote:yeah i was £140 or £160 for that radiator, was less than a year ago too so will be sending back if it is damaged, just an inconvenience really, ah well, im always rage quiting and it turns out not too bad lol

Haha rage quit what a nerd term.

Omg he killed me 5 time blaahahhaah *hits keyboard*

yeah i really need to study how to use a multimeter and read wiring diagrams properly it just boggles my head

shroom wrote:

Digitalfaze wrote:yeah i was £140 or £160 for that radiator, was less than a year ago too so will be sending back if it is damaged, just an inconvenience really, ah well, im always rage quiting and it turns out not too bad lol

Haha rage quit what a nerd term.

Omg he killed me 5 time blaahahhaah *hits keyboard*

I gave you a rep point for you new rage quitting terminology :-D

fuck it im gonna give him one too as that was quite a good comment lol



OY! Mr B you got a lot more votes than me which cant surely be right I may have to remove some to bring you back down to earth with a big bump

Thats because he is mr b the b is short for bloody knows everything

you guys will make me blush

Lol, that's what you get keep having bloody holidays Mr Bob :-P
'Wish I did know everything :-/ especially upcoming lottery numbers & the real killers of the Koh Tao murders !
the B stands for Bastard actually, comes from blackadder I believe & was started many years ago by a friend & stuck :-S

im going to remove my alarm tomorrow, is this a simple job? the box bob talked of sounded familiar to when i had my dash out before so do i just remove it and thats it or is there a process?

It's fairly straight forward if  you're careful. First thing is to trace the wires from the alarm controller and see where they are connected in to your wiring harness. The alarm probably disables one or two circuits in the car, like ignition and starter, so you have to find where the loom wires are cut and linked to the alarm box. Once found, join up the cut wires in the loom and most of the rest can just be pulled out....
It may also be wired to a very noisy alarm and the hazard lights.
First thing I do when I get a car is pull out the alarm. Most of them seem to have been put in very badly, and I even had one where all the connections were just twisted and taped. A disaster waiting to happen.....
Good luck.