My R

So does anyone have advice on micron fuel filters? Im currently an in-tank pump, which feeds a surge tank. I’m thinking about running a 100 micron filter between the in-tank pump and the surge tank and a 30 micron filter between the surge tank and fuel rail. Below is the a smaller 30 micron filter that Id run between the surge tank and rail.



Below is the larger 100 micron filter between the in-tank pump and the surge tank.



However after doing some google searches, I've found people who run the reverse. Lower micron between in-tank pump and surge, then a higher filter between the surge tank and rail. Any advice on what I should be running? Also found people who run lower micron filters as well.

These videos will answer all you questions. There's 9 to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9anfxsXGSjwQhbdFAlVHP3CJ6p1yv93m

Lower micron for pull and higher micron for push. Makes pumps life easier and last longer.

Thanks guys.

That’s awesome Nigel, I’ll give them a watch tonight

No worries. Use the largest (physical size) paper or fibreglass cartridge filter of the smallest micron filter you can afford.

Fuel quality through the injector is more important than pump output pressure.

astarozna wrote:Lower micron for pull and higher micron for push. Makes pumps life easier and last longer.

I have a 10 micron fuel filter and have only 4 psi fuel pressure difference from outlet of the fuel tank to the pressure regulator. How much less time will my pump last?

Injector dynamics do a new fuel filter module that pretty cool.

I honestly don't know the difference in time. Do you still have filter on in tank pump?

Hi all,

Another question to pick your brain

As im running a single throttle body, im welding up all the left over vacuum ports and things I dont need anymore. Im thinking about running a distribution block on the firewall, which will make removing the intake manifold nice and easy.

I was thinking about welding a -10 fitting under the manifold and running single hose to the distribution block but wondering if that location on the manifold matters and if a single dash 10 line is enough?

Alternatively, I could the holes highlighted in circles and run twin lines to the distribution block? I was also wondering if some of those vacuum ports will be affect since ive removed the quads throttles? What you think I should do?

This is from LINK G4 manual. I would check what haltech recommend as u could run into issues with delayed MAP signals if in a poor location

That's a good diagram, cant find anything specific in haltech doco other than to avoid connecting the vacuum hose below the level of the injectors. I currently have the MAP/FPR t-ed off a port tapped into the top of the manifold, which aligns with that diagram so I could always leave them where they are and fit the distribution block for the remaining things.

I'm not sure how much signal filtering the haltech has but be careful when connecting the map sensor and FPR to the same hose. The fpr can act as a pulse dampner for the map signal.

Or you could weld a little plate on top of the plenum that has threaded holes for each vacuum port required.

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/link-g4-plus-software-tutorial/show/evo-ix-link-plugin-acceleration-lean-issue#post19436

Chris, have you considered using something like this
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/vacuum-block

ducie54 wrote:I'm not sure how much signal filtering the haltech has but be careful when connecting the map sensor and FPR to the same hose. The fpr can act as a pulse dampner for the map signal.

Or you could weld a little plate on top of the plenum that has threaded holes for each vacuum port required.

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/link-g4-plus-software-tutorial/show/evo-ix-link-plugin-acceleration-lean-issue#post19436

I think I will separate the MAP and FPR just to be safe.

So im making an assumption those ports in red circles might be no good now ive removed the quad throttles, as that changes where the pressure is best within the manifold?

If thats the case, that leaves me with welding fittings on top, assuming underneath like in my pic is not as good? I can either run a -10 hose to the distribution block and have everything running off that. Or maybe run 3 fittings on top, one for FPR, one for MAP, then one for the distribution block that will run the remaining sources? I did some googling and people run shit loads of things off a single distribution block but not sure if that's the best way.

splmum wrote:Chris, have you considered using something like this
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/vacuum-block

Hey buddy, isn't that similar to what Im thinking about running?

your idea of a minimum of 3 points on intake in more ideal location would sound wise route and likely get better results and no running issues from sensor readings being effected .

That's it mate, I've decided i'm going 3 fittings on top, one for FPR, one for MAP, then one for the distribution block that ill mount on the firewall that will run the remaining things.

Im pretty sure the answer is yes but can someone check for me if vacuum hoses would comfortably fit down the back of manifold between the firewall if I mounted them here?

Been abit quiet so thought I may aswell do a small update.

Since I built my airbox I had to change where I mounted my catch can and remote oil filter. Here the old set up.

And the new air box

After alot of pondering I decided to move the catch can onto the side of the airbox. Made up a small bracket and ground back my horrid welds

Unfortunately where the catch can now mounts, I had to slightly move the location of the clutch line bracket. So I made a new bracket to mount the clutch line and also the remote oil filter, using some factory mounting locations.

Here's the finished result.

Not alot worth mentioning but I did buy a dimple die and made some holes in an old valve cover plate I had laying around, I think it looks good. Undecided to keep it like it is or paint black? and yes changing my blue cover to red when my rebuilt engine is complete, maybe a colour change will give me better luck this time around

That looks very tidy indeed mate! Personally, I'd leave it like it is...maybe a cheeky whiff of lacquer to keep it nice long term?

Do love a dimple dye cutter! Cant beat a 'motorsport' hole lol

mike74 wrote:That looks very tidy indeed mate! Personally, I'd leave it like it is...maybe a cheeky whiff of lacquer to keep it nice long term?

thabks mate, yeah I think it suits the red

DC313 wrote:Do love a dimple dye cutter! Cant beat a 'motorsport' hole lol

Already posted this in another thread but I thought I would update my thread. I made up these floor support protectors? or what ever you would like to call them.

The photos don't do justice the amount of time these took to make. I used 75x75 SHS steel and cut them out. These are the second set I made because I wasn't happy with the first.

Originally I planned to dimple die them but in the end couldn't be arsed and figured excess dirt and crap would just get stuck in them anyway. The hardest part I found was getting these to match the profile of the floor, they aren't perfect but good enough. My floor supports weren't rusted but had certainly copped abuse from a jack which in turn had pushed the floor up. I did my best to straighten them out and made sure to use some underbody paint before fitting these.

I just used allen bolts, lock nuts and sleeves through the middle of them. The factory floor supports already have holes in most places so I just used them and drilled in to the floor.

The way I look at it, my floor supports looked like crap, the only modification was drilling 4 holes in each side, if I ever get the floor supports fixed its no worries to weld those holes up. These aren't for everyone but serves my purpose and look really good once powder coated.

So i finally have a engine again, super stoked to have it back!



First question, I did some searching but couldn't find pics, are these ports normally threaded or use those metal plugs? They currently foul on the distributor. I had a feeling they were tapped on my previous build but could be wrong?

metal cup plugs is oem, threaded plugs do job if set flush.

now you got first love back the new wife going be grumpy :-) lol

Thanks B, that’s what I was looking for. Shouldn’t be difficult to fix long as there’s enough thread.

I’ve already moved into the garage