Cosmic's Winter Pulsar Project

What a twat of job removing the inlet manifold is. F^%k me they dont make it easy with that Y bracket in there.

Anyway finally did and it felt like lifting the FA cup

Lol fareplay. Dont put the Y bracket back on. Its no needed.
Unless you want to keep your pulsar totally stock that is lol

Whats the plan for the inlet? Just strip and clean?

My plan is to just clean it and fit new injectors
I've read posts about not fitting the Y bracket but i'm on the side of refitting it if i can.
If anyones interested here's the reason why, but be warned its long winded....

I work in the analysis dept. at Cummins and we spend a lot if time designing and analysing brackets similar to this.
This isn't to make sure they can carry the load (which they could many times over) but to make sure the vibration from the engine doesn't coincide with a natural frequency of the sub-assembly which could cause it to resonate, generate high fatigue stresses which could lead to crack formation.
By adding brackets and stiffening the assembly, its natural frequency gets higher and cant coincide with the lower engine frequency.

My Y bracket has been off since 1998 and no cracks in sight

Yep bin that y bracket it makes jobs so much easier like ..det sensor ....starter motor ...not to mention a little wieght saving ....

Isnt it in the motorsport documentation (forgot the name) to remove it for rallying anyway so cant be that important.

This morning i spoke to one of our lead analysts. He's also big into the modified RX7 scene and said he also misses loads of stock parts off his Mazda too.
He also confirmed the bracket is there to increase the stiffness as i suspected, and removing it could slightly increase the risk of fretting at the gasket interfaces after long term use.
He also reckons its Nissan being over cautious and removing it won't make any difference in the short/middle term.
I reckon that's good enough for me.
I'll leave off the Y bracket.

I was going to add remember these are rally bread cars going on road or smooth track so bracing is all over engeerneered

Well i hate to say i told you so ....

nomad wrote:Well i hate to say i told you so ....

Fair enough, i got there in the end. 

Haha at least you did the right thing and looked into it/questioned it. The rest of us just left it off as its a complete fucker to work around, regardless of any consequences long term.

Just got a call from Midland turbos,
Housing shows signs of cracking which is common and not an issue, phew.
Compressor wheel has impact damage and needs replacing,
Cost inc collection, replaced parts and delivery wasn't too bad either, K'ching


I might celebrate by removing my head tonight! (Cyl head that is)

Glad you got it all sorted (turbo wise)

A dark garage with a box of tissues and some hand cream, you will soon remove the head!

Hand cream .... ..... thats some posh head removal ....

Spit may tarnish the alloy

Not if you rub it quick enough

Last time the missus caught me in a dark room with towels and hand cream she banned from the internet...Again

The saying goes necessity is the root of all invention.
That was true tonight when i tried to remove the head bolts and realised i didn't have a 10mm allen socket. Tried a 10mm allen key but it wouldnt budge


My brain wave was to hacksaw thu the allen key and slot it into a 10mm socket which worked a treat.

The shitty outer bolts were a pig to remove tho.

In the workshop manual it shows an outer bolt (number 5) at the inlet side of cyl 1, which i simply could not find??
I searched for 10 mins but i was stumped, can anyone confirm this please?

http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=142

Are they not the 10mm bolts which come up from underneath, one on each corner?

you're right, but i could only see 3 of them not the 4 shown in the manual.
I'll have another look this morning..
Cheers

yep, that bolt no. 5 doesn't exist.

Anyway after 1/2 an dicking about trying to pull off the waterpump hose, the head came clean off.


The bores, imo look really good, there's no step indicating heavy wear and I can still see the honing marks. There's a bit of carbon buildup but it wipes straight off.


I'm not an expert and might be missing something so would appreciate anyones opinion on these high res pics.
Cheers










Shall I replace this pipe connection??

you got a crack in the head between plug hole & exhaust valve on cyl 3 !
lot of oil in that cylinder too !

Good spot Mr B,

Just cleaned up the area and had a closer look. Theres similar cracks in cyl 2 and 4 aswell,
Are these show stoppers or quite normal?

So that bolt you were looking for was missing?

Generally I think the consensus is that if you have cracks there its no good. Someone will be able to confirm but cracks in the head are no good.

Glad you are moving ahead nicely with the strip down. What will be your main aim to replace as much as possible and slap some forged pistons in it and a suitable head gasket?

Hi Shroom, that bolt wasnt just missing but the machined hole and thread for it didnt exist either.
Cyl 3 didnt have oil in it as mentioned in an earlier post,  but some coolant had run in from removing the head.
My plan is to repair the small cracks in the head (if possible). Ill carry on and strip out the pistons and inspect them and the crank. If all is well i'll rebuild with new shells and piston rings.
I'll also fit new oil, water pumps etc.
My eventual aim isnt to maximise engine power but to end up with something that'll be reliable for a good fews years to come, so ill be happy with refitting any parts that are within spec,.