Ideas on how to remove weight from front end

Ok, so I have a goal of trying to remove 100lbs from the front end of my Pulsar. I've already removed the entire AC system, including the evaporator and associated under dash box. So I figured I save around 20lbs there.

Battery has been relocated to the boot.

I was considering having the front lower crossmember replicated out of aluminum. That thing is fairly heavy. Also, a FRP or carbon bonnet and fenders should lighten things up a bit.

I think the goal is obtainable, but do you think I might have to lighten up the spring rate in the front afterwards? Right now i'm running a 7K spring up front.

Relocate washer bottle

Honest answer time will tell mate suspension and driving style really is a personal thing. A lot run 6 without reducing weight so I guess it’s likely

Remove the bumper bar/brace .
Sure you could mount the bumper differently.

Lighter wheels

Not a bad idea but I'm not sure what would hold my intercooler up then lol. As far as wheels, I've got fairly lightweight 15x7 Enkei ES Tarmac, they're like 6kg or something but I suppose a forged Volk or something would be a tad lighter.

Carbon hood saves a lot, front wings/fendors not so much but for you goal it maybe easier option than other choices.
Should of had an alloy hood from factory as weight of the steel hood is ridiculous :-)
I really wouldn't remove bumper bar unless had to although you could lighten this, washer bottle could be moved, hollow swaybar, alloy front chassis leg crossbar etc would all help.
Not a massive amount weight removed easily/cheaply .

Anyone you know of make a hollow sway bar?

What about plastics 4 performance replacement screens, they do complete window sets and also they do front windscreen in lexan. Would be a lot lighter than glass I've got the rears fitted to my car.

http://www.plastics4performance.com/window-kits-windscreens/nissan-pulsar-gtir-lexan-front-windscreen.html

Smaller brakes ????????????
Think Nissan micra discs and calipers will fit .

Carbon bonnet must save alot, the OEM one is heavy as F!

In additional to whats mentioned alloy brackets such as alternator, power steering pump. Depends if you want ABS, that could go. Majority of whats left is small savings. I saw someone fab alloy engine brackets aswell.

gtir_woody wrote:Carbon bonnet must save alot, the OEM one is heavy as F!

In additional to whats mentioned alloy brackets such as alternator, power steering pump. Depends if you want ABS, that could go. Majority of whats left is small savings. I saw someone fab alloy engine brackets aswell.

ABS is gone. Smaller brakes, no can do, I barely have enough brake as it is for what I do.  Lexan windows are awesome, but not street legal unfortunately.  

I like the idea of alloy brackets.  I really wish someone made a manual steering rack for the Pulsar, I'd love to ditch the entire power steering system. I've seen a few people convert to electric power steering, robbing the electric motor assembly from a Toyota MR-S. I I like this from a simplicity standpoint, being able to eliminate associated hoses and a fluid would be fantastic.

Ryaneg6freak wrote:

gtir_woody wrote:Carbon bonnet must save alot, the OEM one is heavy as F!

In additional to whats mentioned alloy brackets such as alternator, power steering pump. Depends if you want ABS, that could go. Majority of whats left is small savings. I saw someone fab alloy engine brackets aswell.

ABS is gone. Smaller brakes, no can do, I barely have enough brake as it is for what I do.  Lexan windows are awesome, but not street legal unfortunately.  

I like the idea of alloy brackets.  I really wish someone made a manual steering rack for the Pulsar, I'd love to ditch the entire power steering system.  I've seen a few people convert to electric power steering, robbing the electric motor assembly from a Toyota MR-S. I I like this from a simplicity standpoint, being able to eliminate associated hoses and a fluid would be fantastic.

I changed to an electric power steering pump from an MR2, but changed back to OEM before ever testing it out.

I changed to an electric power steering pump from an MR2, but changed back to OEM before ever testing it out.

Did it not work at all?

I did a lap around the block and seemed fine, I just decided I didn't want to deal with more electrics and wanted to simply things. I had it wired on a switch but the MR2 unit works well as it has the control box built in. So once wired into a speed sensor it controls the unit. There are some things to work out because the PPM on the pump vs the R is different but wouldn't be that hard to over come IMO. There's some info in my build thread from memory.

I just wish someone would come out with a manual rack with a quicker ratio.

I'm sure they did a 1.4 sunny that didn't have power steering

ROB_IOW wrote:I'm sure they did a 1.4 sunny that didn't have power steering

Not so sure that would work, I've heard the GTi-R has the rack mounted further up on the firewall, im not 100% positive on that, but I would believe the rack wouldn't be a direct bolt in.

Worth a shot though, I can get a brand new one for £58!

What say you guys? worth a shot?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANUAL-STEERING-RACK-FITS-RHD-NISSAN-SUNNY-1-4-1-6-1991-1995-TS785/142684842649?hash=item2138adea99:g:jioAAOSwW~BafXTh

It certainly looks like it would fit. I've attached a similar picture of the GTIR rack for comparison.
One thing that springs to mind though is that the GTIR uses M14 track rod ends while other N14's use M12 ends. I honestly don't know if the arms are interchangeable or not or, even if it would make any difference at all going down to 12mm arms!?

mike74 wrote:It certainly looks like it would fit. I've attached a similar picture of the GTIR rack for comparison.
One thing that springs to mind though is that the GTIR uses M14 track rod ends while other N14's use M12 ends. I honestly don't know if the arms are interchangeable or not or, even if it would make any difference at all going down to 12mm arms!?

I don't know for sure, but I'm sure as hell going to try it. I have one on the way.

Hopefully the inner tie rods will just swap straight out. If you wanted to retain the m12 inner tie rods, and use M12 outers, the problem I think you'd run into is that the tapered section of the tie rod end is too small in diameter to properly seat in the tapered hole on the steering knuckle.

If I have to modify the rack, I can do so, I have a guy locally who can custom build it for me. I at least need RHD rack to start with and that's the problem, they pretty much don't exist on this side of the pond.

Here's hoping you can make it work buddy. It'll be interesting to see IF it can be done and also how it drives after being converted. Personally I don't like power steering (on any car) as IMO it totally kills any feedback you get from the car and makes it feel floaty and light. Non-PAS racks are the way forward

One thing I can’t seem to find is what the ratio is lock to lock. It would suck if I managed to make it even worse lol.
I can see comparing the 2 that the input shaft on the manual rack is considerably longer, prettt much proving my theory that the GTi-R rack mounted higher on the firewall. If all that’s involved is shortening the input shaft, I believe I can make that happen. My biggest concern is if the areas where the hold down bushings are. If they’re not same width apart, or the same diameter, I may be in trouble.

Were about to fit a manual rack but you will find that theres a lot involved in adapting it.

the issue is the mount points and distance between the rack and column which is around 4'' lower plus the manual rack has a different spline where it meets column.
You cant really alter the height of the rack too much as you will then have issues with steering geometry etc, so needs to ideally maintain the existing height / angle.

I do however have a couple of ideas of how to make it work but wont tell you until ive fitted and tested.
Dont want to lead you down the wrong path with heresay, which im sure youll appreciate in longrun!

Would it not be possible to simply unhook the hydraulics from the original rack, plug all the ports and remove the internal seals to make it non-PAS?
Fairies muff you'd have to strip and reassemble the rack itself but at least the ratio wouldn't change and it would fit. Or am I a nugget and haven't thought of something, LOL!

mike74 wrote:Would it not be possible to simply unhook the hydraulics from the original rack, plug all the ports and remove the internal seals to make it non-PAS?
Fairies muff you'd have to strip and reassemble the rack itself but at least the ratio wouldn't change and it would fit. Or am I a nugget and haven't thought of something, LOL!

You can, but then the steering would be extremely heavy. Manual racks for some reason tend to steer much much easier than a power rack with the fluid removed. I don't really know why, but it is so.

I took the power rack out of my Civic and installed a manual rack, and it was like nothing even changed, it still steered just as easily.

GTI-R US wrote:Were about to fit a manual rack but you will find that theres a lot involved in adapting it.

the issue is the mount points and distance between the rack and column which is around 4'' lower plus the manual rack has a different spline where it meets column.
You cant really alter the height of the rack too much as you will then have issues with steering geometry etc, so needs to ideally maintain the existing height / angle.

I do however have a couple of ideas of how to make it work but wont tell you until ive fitted and tested.
Dont want to lead you down the wrong path with heresay, which im sure youll appreciate in longrun!

One of your active projects Bob?