another high idle thread and runs rich on idle

Having trouble with high idle. From cold its fine idles at 1000rpm then warm up alittle then goes to 1500rpm but give alittle blip of
The throttle and it goes down to 1100rpm. So thats what happens when its warm runs high but have to blip it every time to get it to come down. Pcv valve is working as the bearings going back and forth but clamp the pcv pipe and forces it down to idle.
I did what the manual said to check the warm up regulator by clamping the pipe under the idle screw amd made no difference to idle. I've clamped the recirculation valve pipe and didn't hear any leaks and didn't make a difference. I have changed gaskets on the warm up regulator and idle valve when i took the engine out previously amd previous to that it always idled at 1500rpm before changing gaskets and i have changed the inlet manifold gasket aswell. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the inlet manifold but no sign of a leak so i'm thinking idle valve. Also at idle its so rich it hurts my eyes and makes me choke when standing behind it, on non cat test (live test)

Co 0.17
Co2 8.60
Hc 932
02 lambda 9.03

I just bought a new lambda so waiting for that as i errr dropped the old one

Could be your maf sensor, false air readings and chucking in too much fuel although I'd of though a dodgy maf would've made it run lean not rich just an idea though and another part to check and maybe rule out

No probs i'll have a look at that and check the manual thanks

Ecu temp sensor ????

Aaah cool another thing to ohms check thanks for heads up

Icp do them for £8 if it is that ....

I saw that earlier so bought one because i have to change the coolant anyway...i put red coolant in without thinking about it oops.

Two different sensors i believe ....

Dash sensor and coolant temp switch? I tested the switch and it had the same ohms readings so it was working fine. Still waiting on the lambds to come.

Does the primera gt aac have the same size valve and sensor as i've been looking at ebay and thinking i could piece one together using gtir aac

Who has experience in balancing the throttle bodies? I wanted to see if they are staying open slightly

Can you not put a gauge on the nipples or something ????

I thought i had a 4 gauge balancer in my garage but it got sold years ago. Only got a couple of motorbike balancers now and don't think that would work

There is quite a few 4 gauge balancers on ebay for around 40quid mark can throw a link up if that helps ...

Had a look and fairly cheap something to look at. I blanked off the warm up reg to check idle issue but was the same so i can rule that out. I have an untouched primera aac coming to piece

Well fingers crossed then mate cant be much more you havent tried .....

a few more things to check for you that will cause this

ignition timing unstable............check with timing gun to see if marks are darting around, if so then take a good look at dizzy and cas

faulty tps or wiring to it

dodgy lambda sensor

throttle air bypass screws been messed with or linkages not properly set holding 2 butterflies partially open............not easy to adjust or check in situ

iacv faulty or faulty cold start

faulty ecu............found this on 2 occasions recently

incorrectly routed pipes to carbon canister causing pressurisation of fuel tank and lines which results in black smoke and overly rich running with unstable idle

if no vacuum leaks and none of the above remedy the issue then it could possibly be worn seals in the throttle bodies which can let by when throttle is closed

Hi bob we had a look at it today. I get alot of wooshing noise on the fuel lines on the bend under the carbon canistor. I checked the tps the other day but now had to adjust it all the way to the stop at 0.8v because if i set it to 0.44v it idles way to high but opening it all the way to just over 4v it seems ok. I checked all my spare aac valves i have and all solenoids are opening when power them up with my power probe. I've checked all the vacuum lines and there all routed correctly so next thing is to whip off the manifold and have a look at the butterflies Also had a look distributor it looks like the dizzy hasn't been touched as the original jap label across the bolts is intact. I did try my timing light but i couldn't see the timimg mark which was a pain, will have another go sometime but it does stink of unburnt fuel

Try taking the pipes off the carbon canister, block the 2 that go to the rear vacuum chamber or link them together then leave the tank vent pipe open. 
I've seen in the past on one car that the vent pipe was actually being pressurised  via the carbon canister piping when car came on boost, some of the vacuum pipes are actually at + pressure when butterflies are open and if the carbon canister has collapsed inside it can actually pressurise the fuel tank, this in turn results in excess pressure at fuel rail and to the injectors hence the over fuelling 

If that fails to cure it try swapping the ecu for another

I think the charcoal canister has possibly callapsed. It sounds like a salt shaker and its able to come out of the pipes.

I blocked the thin pipe comes from the canister and goes to the vaccum next to the tps and then joined the two larger pipes that went to the top of the carbon canister and joined them together leaving the chassis pipe that went to the bottom of the canister open is that right?

Idles smoothly now but to get it idle lower tps adjusted to 0.10v then fiddled more switched it on and off revved it up more fiddling and got it to 0.43v of the sweet spot and idles at 1000rpm seems ecu maybe in a learning curve with idle? It back fires when revved though. It doesn't seem to stink of fuel now but as i said it back fires

Are both the pipes that go to rear of engine both coming from the vacuum chamber or is one of them coming a different part of the plenum?

Sounds like there's a piping issue here too but many gtir's do pop and bang when coming off the throttle anyway

Aaahh i was just editing my post so i didn't look like a cock. Yes i joined the big airchamber vacuum to the tank vent so thats why it back fired. Just blanked it and joined the vent back into the vent. Drives fine now just need to adjust idle slightly. Thanks bob and for everyones input

Haha no worries fella glad you got her sorted : )