Removing the gearbox

Hi guys so I started stripping down the car so I can get the gearbox out.

I've come across s little bracket that I'm struggling to remove, it's located right below the oil filter and has 2 bolts going into the engine and 2 bolts that go into the end of the transfer box. I need to get the bracket off so that I can undo the last 10mm bolt holding the transfer casing on.

Is their a way of undoing this bracket? Because at the minute the only way I can see it coming off is by taking the oil filter off which I dont want to do if I can help it.

Any help guys? This bracket is turning into a right pain in the arse, there is one bolt left in it that I just cant get a socket on if I don't get the bracket out of the way I can't take the transfer box casing off. Now im not sure if it's because the numpty who worked on this before me has rounded the head or if it's just because of the angle but it's not coming out.

Any suggestions? I may just end up taking the engine out if I can't undo the bolt. Stupid bloody japanese midgets

Not to worry I've managed to get the bolt out now it was rounded.

Ive never done one so couldnt help you out there bud .... its was probably rounded due to being a bugger to get too ...

I've had folk tell me you can do this job in a couple of hours so let us know if you think 2 hours is a reasonable time frame lol

Was it the y bracket?

The Y bracket  is located at the back of the engine it bolts to the inlet manifold and to the engine its an over engineered nissan part most people take them off as it makes jobs like starter motor removal  det sensor etc a nightmare to do ....

Bones wrote:I've had folk tell me you can do this job in a couple of hours so let us know if you think 2 hours is a reasonable time frame lol

Mate although this is the first time ive ever done anything like this let me put it this way, if someone can do it in 2 hours i'll give them my car.

Nah it wasn't the y bracket its the one that bolts onto the end of the transfer box. If you take the drivers side wheel off and look directly at the transfer box it's just at the top with two bolts going into it.

Someones had it off previously which really pisses me off, one bolt was missing, the other rounded and the two that bolt into the transfer box weren't even done up tight. Although it does seem like they have left out the bastard bolt which was nice of them.

Bones wrote:I've had folk tell me you can do this job in a couple of hours so let us know if you think 2 hours is a reasonable time frame lol

ive heard this aswell , all internet bollox
anyone that says they can do that in 2 hrs then pop down here and prove it, if you can then il give you a job..........seriously

the fastest ive seen one done {assuming your doing it on your own) is 4 hrs out and back ive done it in just under with everything to hand but hard going.
that's with no corroded or rounded bolts, no Y bracket and no tea lol

Supernova wrote:

Bones wrote:I've had folk tell me you can do this job in a couple of hours so let us know if you think 2 hours is a reasonable time frame lol

Mate although this is the first time ive ever done anything like this let me put it this way, if someone can do it in 2 hours i'll give them my car.

Let's have your car then you can drop the gearbox in 2 hours if you just keep going and have all the tools to hand.

GTI-R US wrote:

Bones wrote:I've had folk tell me you can do this job in a couple of hours so let us know if you think 2 hours is a reasonable time frame lol

ive heard this aswell , all internet bollox
anyone that says they can do that in 2 hrs then pop down here and prove it, if you can then il give you a job..........seriously

the fastest ive seen one done {assuming your doing it on your own) is 4 hrs out and back
that's with no corroded or rounded bolts, no Y bracket and no tea lol

I thought he was talking about dropping the gearbox out not removing it and changing clutch and having it back together.
There is no way on earth this can be done.
I think me and shaun did it in just over 3 hours. But that was with both of us going at it.

Nah sorry bud you aint doing this and re-fitting it in 2 hours. If you say you can then I echo Bob....... Prove it lol

Bob while your here I reckon their is a good chance that my clutch fork is damaged do you have one lying around?

we only do the welded ones now fella, don't sell stock clutch forks.
we measure thickness of pivot point prior to welding them as many are just too thin so a complete waste of time strengthening them so we sling those ones in with the scrap.
can knock you one up if needed though so youll get it Friday if made and sent out tomorrow

Ok Bob that's great. I need to get the box off first to have a good look at whats failed if the clutch fork is defiantly broke I will contact you for one and maybe a couple of other bit's as well.

Another way to do this is lea3e the cast iron bracket on and take the end case off the transfer box, then pull the diff out so you don't have to completely remove the transfer box.

To get to the cast iron bracket I usually go from on top under the inlet If taking the transfer box off.

I have  watched and helped do a gearbox but my first real go completely on my own took me about 4 hours to get out which I'm happy with but will get quicker every time

All sorted now I got the gearbox off yesterday. Release bearing had give up, clutch fork looks ok but the the clutch is also broke, one the springs in the friction plate has ripped out and was just in between the pressure plate and the friction.

New clutch on it's way plus some cv boots. Hopefully it all goes back together ok.

^ I would strengthen the fork anyway, best done then job jobbed & no crying in 3months time.
As for gearbox remova/refitting time, anything from 4 to 10hrs is realistic, for 4hrs you need not one problem & proper equipment/tools & experience. No idea why so many people think quick is clever ! most important thing is doing a proper job. You only need a couple of things seized or need rectifying to suddenly be at 8hrs+ & on a 20yr old car things are not always perfect or how nissan had built it so never likely straight forward.
Well done on you effort so far though

Hi guy's.

Ok so i've finally got the gearbox back on filled it up with oil ect, ect. I've started the car to get a bit of heat into the turbo flange after soaking it for most of the day in plus gas ready to attempt to remove my broken stud.

The car has started fine so i'm letting it get up to temperature whilst checking for leaks, the car has a bit of a lumpy idle but it was there before so nothing to worry about.

The reason i'm posting is I thought i'd press the clutch in to make sure that's all ok, I tried it before I started the car and the release fork was moving ok. When I pressed the clutch in with the engine on, the revs wanted to drop to below 500, that's with the clutch pressed in a little not all the way, also I can feel a bit of vibration with a noise almost a bit of chatter at that point I released the clutch not wanting anything to engage causing the car to launch forward (it's still up on axle stands)

I may be worrying over nothing given that it's a new clutch and I can appreciate i may not be explaining this very well, but right now i'm thinking/panicking all kind of worse case scenario possibility's. I really hope it's all ok i'll be so gutted if I have to take the gearbox off again.

I just wanted to post now before I go back out and remove the stud, tighten the hub nut's put the wheels back on an lower it to the floor to check properly, just in case someone may have an idea what may or not be happening. I really don't want break anything.

Sorry for the incoherent rambling but i'm nowhere near as experienced as you guy's and I haven't got loads of money to throw at it if I damage the car and end up with a heap of problems. I don't suppose anybody around the Somerset area would be able to pop by just in case?

I would of tried it up on axle stands if all wheels were off the deck ....try8ng to think why the revs would drop down that low with just depressing the clutch slightly not unless you have a vac leak on the servo pipe ... im sure its still connected to clutch master ....i maybe wrong i cant remmber that far back ...

Unfortunately I only have 2 axle stands to hand otherwise I would've.

To be honest the revs have always dipped a bit ever since I've had it and It's always had a bit of a erratic idle, not massively just enough to make you notice, it's worse when it's cold but it doesn't stall.

I may just be panicking a little due to the nature of what I have done, I have far less knowledge and experience than you guy's, hence the reason I ask questions sometimes they maybe a little silly but I'm learning as I go. It's the first big power car I've owned.

I managed to get the broken stud out of the turbo flange and the car is now on the deck so that's progress but it's got a bit to late to be running the engine and checking things so I'll get back on it tomorrow and see what occurring. Fingers crossed it's ok and I was just being an old woman.

No question is silly and if I was closer I would have helped

Its probably just nerves Thats making you think maybe something isn't quite right!
It's normal to notice sounds more while doing a job on your own car. You listen more for things.
Now its all back together. You will be able to check the clutch properly.
Wouldn't of thought the Rev drop was to do with the clutch.
Keep us posted tomorrow. Fingers crossed for you.
It's good to see another new owner doing the hard work for themselves. Its the best way of learning about these cars

Cheers guy's thanks for the kind words. I'm a bit more relaxed now so just have to wait and see, if the gearbox has to come back off at least it shouldn't take as long this time. Fingers crossed.