Removing gearbox / changing clutch

Im going to get my gearbox off lne day soon and have a look what's gone off with this clutch so I can get the R back on the road.

What's the best way to get the box off and has anyone got any help and advice before I start.
Hopefully Darren's going to do it with me at his house so there will be 2 of us and Darren's got a decent tool selection Well a lot better than mine anyway

Probably just as quick to drop the whole lump than seperate the transferbox off it bill ....

My personal preference (if water hoses etc don't need doing at the back of the engine) would be to leave engine in situ. Undo casing bolts on transfer box, remove casing, remove diff, don't loose shim, then transfer box can come of & it's like removing a fwd gearbox.

Imo I've done it both ways and found it way easier just to drop the whole thing. I found it too frustrating to get the gearbox out and back in while the engine was left in. Easier to work with while the whole thing is out aswell

I drop the whole lump if i have other stuff to do aswell if not i just drop the box and transfer as one none of this removing end case carry on

Just be sure to support the gearbox +transfer box properly as you dont want to bend the shaft ....

nomad wrote:Just be sure to support the gearbox +transfer box properly as you dont want to bend the shaft ....

^^^^
As above its easy to remove the box and transfer all in one but not that easy to get it back in and if you leave the box hanging on the drive plate spline you will 100% damage your clutch driveplate so either drop the lot or withdraw the front diff from transfer
Then as said its just like doing a fwd

If you haven't done it before drop the whole lump. It's stress free this way. Just dropping the box/transfer box itself can be a pain if it's not been out in a while, some bolts on the brackets can be tight and you end up spending/wasting time on these with shitty access.

If you drop the lump you will be able to quickly inspect everything while it's out. Usually takes me about an hour and a half to drop lump and it's a piece of piss.

I'm going to do it for him as he has a spazzing arm and no tools also I've taken 2 engines out these cars before but thought I'd try just the box off as something different. I've got pretty much all the tools inc engine lift but I'd like to see someone get one out in an hour and a half no offence Whytie but the 1st time I did one a lad of another forum said he could do it in 2 hours and I fetched him to help, still took us 5 hours with me helping.

5 hours did you go shopping inbetween

Knob

must be gearbox/clutch season as im taking mine off too.I think my release bearing has collapsed. I know its gonna be tuff but i like learning car related stuff....... bring on the rusty misery ;-)

What way are you doing yours ....????
Does bill still have the y bracket fitted darren ???

No he doesn't if I remember right. Let's face it you want half an hour to get tools out jack up remove wheels and get drive shafts out

I was only taking the piss mate ....it takes aslong as it takes ..... once you have done it a few times you can normally reduce the time down by loads ....

im gonna try the transfer end case and front diff method as i dont have an engine hoist.I have made a start on mine and can already see its gonna be f**ckin right laugh

I've only just seen this since I put it up. Thanks for the advice everyone, some usefull tips there. After I put this up Darren pointed out to me that there's a how to for changing a gearbox with the engine still in place so I'm going to print that off and we can follow that step by step.

I haven't got the Y bracket fitted btw

As this engine box been out before (recent'ish) it should be quite easy hopefully without to many stubborn bolts etc.
I would do it Transfer end case off then gearbox off as less faffing about compared to full engine removal. Only real need for removal for Engine is if have other jobs do on engine & if not it best left in really.
I couldn't drop whole engine in hour & half on your average R as too many areas need extra fettling due to age & keeping things from being damaged, good workmanship is not about speed.
With 2 people, good jacks & crane plus the experience one of you has it will be quite easy.
Main trick is angle engine to help & be sure to align the friction plate proper & have a spanner on the crank pulley so can quickly tweak it to align splines as box going on.

Thanks for the tips

Takes me two days strip everything one day clean everything up find new bolts etc should anything need it. Refit it the next double and trebbile check everything refill fluids and drive it second day. No question i could do it in way less but no prize for rushing it. Plenty cups of tea steady pace. This is on my drive and as darren said its putting tools etc away. I see so many work on different cars not just R's snap clips leave bolts out no copper grease etc on refit rushed shoddy job in my opinion

The box has been off recently too because I had a different engine dropped in earlier this year so hopefully there should be no stubborn bolts

After reading kierons original post of clutch removal ive got to the point of realising that i still have the Y bracket fitted to my car.Is it not possible to complete this with the Y bracket in place?

You can remove the y bracket with the engine in situ .... its abit fiddley and tight to get out you will need to slide it out gearbox side and take the rear engine mount off to get it out but its not that bad to do ...

In the end i just unbolted it and managed to get the starter motor past it.I think i may bolt it back on later as it does seem to take the weight of the inlet manifold.

People have been running without them for years with no problems i guess its personal prefference it makes getting to the det sensor and starter motor with it removed ...