URGENT!!!

Guys ive changed my mastercylender today because I basicly had no brakes, anyway the problem is still the same, They work but only slow you down... theres no sharp bite there or they wont lock up no matter how hard you hit the pedal? & ive bled & bled them & still no luck?

Need this sorted in the next 2 days or my nurburg trip is going to be a no go

Wilwoods on the front,
Standard calipers on back

Ive bled furthest away from mastercylender & worked my way in & bled outside nipples first on wilwoods & then inner nipples.

Pleas help, or im going to end up ripping my hair out  

Also servo is working ok as when engine is off the pedal is rock hard then sinks a little when I start engine so servo is working!

Whats your lines like gaz ?

Im trying to remember who else who had the same problem  

There ok, fluid is flowing threw them fine, Ive got braided on the front & standard rubber onse on the back, Now I know rubber onse are shite as they expand but that's not the problem, they hould be a lot better than what they are, so the problem lyes somewhere else.

If you imagaine gradualy slowing down for a set of traffic lights.. then that's what mine are like if I stamp on them? Fook all there

How are you bleeding them .. Foot pedal or pressure bleeder ?


Do you have ABS ? sounds like an airlock in the ABS pump

I had the same fault on a vw beetle .. bled them for 2 hours and pedal would be there but only just . very soft .

Turned out there was a fooking huge airlock in the ABS pump

Foot pedal, pumping away for about an hour to make sure all air was out.

Yep it has abs but I think its all disconnected which I don't mind as ABS is shit anyway lol

And also bled it with engine running

Either that or maybe the bias/proportioning valve ?

I was thinking proporting valve, but heard that's an engine out jobby?

Try getting a pressure bleeder ..
And as for ABS disconected is it actually unplumbed ? or just the fuse removed ?

Just fuse removed on ABS I think.

Going to have to take it to a local garage tomorrow & let them have a go bleeding them, But gareges round here are all monkeys, Don't trust any of them with what there doing   But its my only hope

fuse removed means fluid still going through the ABS pump on route to the calipers.  try bleeding upto the ABS pump . and then after the pump before you do the calipers

How do I bleed up to ABS pal?

I wouldnt bother with a garage they will not do anything your not already done mate so just be wasting your wedge .... as rob said it will still be circulating upto the the abs pump ..... have you thought about putting the fuse in for it and then try bleeding it ? Also if your going to do away with the abs pump you need to chenge the bias valve anyway .

Same as calipers ..   trace the pipes upto the pump and bleed the same as you have been doing ..  
Work out which pipes go where first do the pipes into the abs pump first then all the ones that go out to the calipers .    

Pressure bleeder is the way forward  £25 from halfords .
You can do it yourself no need for someone in the car ..

Also when you bleed the brakes press pedal slowly ish . You don't want to do it fast becuase you can flip the seals in the master cylinder

Exactly Leighton.

Are there bleed points on ABS pump or something? Don't understand how I bleed from ABS pump?

& ive tried with abs fuse in, no different

find the ABS pump and locate the unions going into it .. treat them as bleed nipples .

Put pressure on pedal
Crack them off like a bleed nipple
Once pedals on floor tighten the union
And keep repeating untill you have no air and only fluid coming out

Repeat with every union and then one you've done that do the calipers again . .
Back left , then back right , then front left , and last drivers side front

Ahhh get you, yep ill try that tomorrow then, & that's the same order as ive bled the brakes so atleast iknow ive done that right lol

are you sure the calipers are fitted the right way round i.e bleed nipple at the top as ive seen a couple fitted wrong way round in the past

Theres 4 nipples Bob, 2 at top & 2 on bottom so there universal arnt they?

ah yes I forgot they were wilwoods
are you bleeding both sides of the caliper?

Yep done outside first then inside. Im out of ideas

is the pedal rock solid at the top but not sharp 'similar to no servo' or is the pedal travelling a long way and spongy?

Yes its solid at top but not sharp as you say & feels like theres a little bit of servo but not much?

ok its not air in the system then.
assuming the new master cylinder is not faulty it has to be the servo or the non return valve in the pipe going to it from the manifold