engine crank

i have just removed my crank from the spare engine im doing up and have found its had it. is there any difference or do all sr20det engines have the same crank? and where is best to find one. thanks.

there rocking hose shite to get hold of mike, ive only got 2 good ones myself and one of those is for another engine build were doing.

sr20de crank from primera etc will fit but the fly bolts are a fir bit smaller

Will the sr20de crank be able to cope with the power of the turbo model bob? Especially if its uprated?

I couldn't tell ya tbh as ive never used one but guess it would be ok if you had the fly bolt holes drilled out to take the gtir fly bolts.

I know they will still take 19mm width bearings

thats not what i wanted to hear. lol
might have to get my no4 journal ground and polished then if i cant find one.
thanks for the info
i take it then not all sr20det engines have the same crank then? from s14 and the likes?

mikey bean wrote:thats not what i wanted to hear. lol
might have to get my no4 journal ground and polished then if i cant find one.
thanks for the info
i take it then not all sr20det engines have the same crank then? from s14 and the likes?

No im 95% sure s14 sr20's are different than pulsar sr20 ie, cranks & head? Some1 correct me if im wrong. God knows why they didn't call them sr20det'A & sr20det'B for example

using the same engine would of been so much easier,

whats a second hand engine go for in a gtiR then?

Around the 900 mark for a standard engine obviously forged lumps fetch alot more 2 grand ... ive seen oe lumps go through ebay for 600 but your taking a chance on if its a pile of shite and leave you in the same boat just leaving you lighter in the pocket .....

i have found one for 500, not sure i want to trust it though. might just be better off having my crank done. bollocks. lol

Thats the trouble mate its a risk but if it pays off your getting alot more stuff you could sell on ie head throttle bodies inlet and so on ...as your pay atleast a minium of 750 on a crank and like already said they are like rocking horse shit .

When you say had it what's actually wrong with it, is it nothing a regrind wouldn't sort, just have it ground to .25 if you can,

I know some on here say they wouldn't run a ground crank but every other modded car group do it ie 200's, skylines, supras ect never heard of a crank snapping just because its had a slight grind

its said alot you cant grind the gtir crank due to a special coating would be removed... i didnt take a chance with mine and got a good crank.

a .25 grind should be fine as it doesn't entirely remove the nitride surface,obviously a good stock crank is the best bet but soon these will be a rarity and extremely hard to come by.

don't forget a 4wd car cannot be compared to a rw or fwd, theres a lot more loading on all moving parts which is why they use 19mm as opposed to 17mm bearings

I see somewhere about a company that does the nitrade coating cant think where that was

yes it can be nitride but its expensive so by the time you've paid out for a grind and nitriding you just aswell pay for a new stock crank

think it was dan that said the nitride surface penetrates deeper than .25 so is safe to get it ground to that but no further

Yea I wouldn't go more than .25 I think it cost me £30 to have my last crank ground n cleaned

that's cheap!
they charge £25 a journal down here plus the vat so it can be quite expensive if you have the mains and bigends done

Nitriding hardening depth depends on time the object exposed to gas in the furnace thus varies a lot.
My crank machinist states around .020 to .030 hardening depth from his dealings on GTiR cranks, .010 is his grind limit & anything over that gets ground to spec for new hardening treatment.
With good cranks hard to find the next best thing is good machinist & hardening if required ...

.25mm is the sweat spot & generally still leaves enough hardened depth to be useful. I would be more than happy to use a .50mm ground crank in a 450bhp build but would get nitride treatment on it as worth the extra effort & cost... Most crank issues on rebuilds are down to poor machining or block building rather than actual crank reaching its maximum power handling...
I think a lot of the issue is the one off diy engine builders who have no trust or previous experience with a machinist thus prefer minimal machine work. Other issue is serious amount of difference in machine shops ability & standard so many get a bad experience ...