Another restoration thread.

typeritr wrote:

Nice buy on the manifold alright. That 3 bolt flange is a balls though.

Aye, but just so happens I've got a Greddy TD05-18G lying in my garage that will bolt right up

I love your interior now, that looks really clean!

I'll be doing the same thing you are, stripping the interior, however afterwards I will be spraying the entire thing (even the roof) with Lizard skin spray on insulation. I've used it before when I worked in a restoration shop, this stuff is incredible. VERY lightweight (doing the entire interior might add 2kg of weight) and the sound deadening properties are fantastic. Check it out.

https://shop.lizardskin.com/collections/all-lizardskin-products/products/sound-control-1-gallon

Looks like a good product but would be expensive by the time it gets to Ireland.

I am considering after I have applied a few layers of rust bullet of putting on a top coat of liquid rubber

Liquid Rubber

I have looked it up and seems it stops the stones pinging off the metal and is very durable so hoping this as a top coat will do a good job

There's 2 different kinds, ceramic for heat blocking, and sound deadening, although the ceramic does have some sound deadening properties, and you can then put a layer of the sound deadening over it. I will be content with just the sound deadening and living in Las vegas, applying the ceramic insulation to the roof will drastically reduce the interior temps. The inside of your car can turn into an over around these parts.

Where did you buy your blasting soda from and how did you find it? Ive got a soda blastig machine and done a fair bit with it I just seem to get through a huge amount of soda.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blasting-Media-Abrasive-Strip-Remove/dp/B00FJ3ER34

I would imaging in Las Vegas it would get quite hot yeah, we don't need any heat repellent here Though!!!! Would have to be careful with the plastics inside the car with that heat!!

Yeah, like the amazon link there, I just bought the soda blast media online. I got it from an Irish company though and it was €55 delivered for a 25kg bag.

typeritr wrote:I would imaging in Las Vegas it would get quite hot yeah, we don't need any heat repellent here Though!!!! Would have to be careful with the plastics inside the car with that heat!!

Yeah, like the amazon link there, I just bought the soda blast media online. I got it from an Irish company though and it was €55 delivered for a 25kg bag.

Forgot you were over their lol its aboit 45 gbp with delivery per bag over here.

Bandyleg wrote:

Forgot you were over their lol its aboit 45 gbp with delivery per bag over here.

95% of things are cheaper in the UK than Ireland even when you take in the currency exchange rate. For now anyway.

Any update on this?

Nothing big, just buying more parts! I will update tomorrow with the parts I got recently, quite a few parts actually and one very nice part.

With regard working on the car I have not had any time the last 3 weeks to work on it. Either next week or the week after I am taking 2 days off work to do the underneath of the car. Once that is done it will be time to reassemble the car.

Keep is updated on the underside, find your posts very interesting and informative, in a few months time my car will be coming off the road and I will be doing a full stripd down....

In the end it is all just nuts and bolts, it looks and sounds a lot more daunting that it is. The main part will be reassembling it. Remembering what bolt is used for what part etc...

So here are my updates as promised. As I said it has all just been buying stuff (as that is the easy part)

First up is a big collection of parts



So what is in here??
Z32 MAF, Apexi superfilter with Z32 adapter, Gates Aircon and power steering belt, Track rod ends, Steering rack ends, steering rack rubber boots, full set of turbo gaskets and a t3 Flange to weld to my Greddy manifold, thermal intake gasket, nissan exhaust gasket, kemso 360lm fuel pump, reinforced clutch fork, fuel filter, oil filter, front ball joints, distributor cap and rotor, HKS and Tomei stickers, one of them small GTIR keyrings and a new key. Magnecour ignition leads and some normal brand new ignition leads.


Engine and gearbox mount set, steering rack mounts & front wishbone bushings. Superpro Droplinks.
I have spent 100's on Powerflex bushings but had a few more to get, so I used that guy on ebay (Poltorq) In fairness the engine mount and gearbox mount bushings feel just as good as the proflex subframe mounts. But the wishbone bushings don't seem as good quality. I will try them out, if I find they are not that good they won't be on for long before I get them swapped out for powerflex.




Tool Kit, this kit nicely finished my boot. I now have the boot box, original spare, spare cover and tool kit






I found a great condition dash to replace my cracked one with. The amazing thing is, this dash was in a scrap car that was sitting in a field that had no rear hatch or rear windows on it for a considerable amount of time.



I have heard a lot of custom 3" exhaust before, they sound good, but i have heard a lot of very loud exhausts too. I didn't want mine to be too loud and i have some experience with Vibrant parts. With a lifetime warranty the quality is amazing. The sound their muffler makes too is really deep. With 2 silencers and a muffler this should be a very subtle great sounding exhaust. I hope anyway!! Also some flanges and gaskets to go with them. Topped off with a 3" tail pipe. (Flexi section is on its way!)



Stripped wishbones, partially sanded down



Bolts before and after I put them into a tumbler with Bicarbonate soda to finally clean them before plating them.




A full set of front and rear Nismo Struts!!! A very very lucky find!!





Finally a fully forged engine!!
Cylinder head Ported and polished
Hks 87mm forged pistons
Arp rod bolts
Arp head bolts
Acl bearings throughout
Hks 264 cams
Ported & flowed head
Tomei Rocker Stoppers
Valve Guides
Shims
Hks 1.2mm head gasket
Oil pump
Water pump
Timing chain
Engine gasket kit
Modified oil pick up
Lightened and balanced flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch

This car has totally gone out of control on me. I was supposed to be saving money this year!!

Don't mention that you used ARP head studs, you'll never hear the end of it lmao

The dash looks awesome, what a find, Im guessing you've cleaned it and applied some sort of conditioner?

The engine looks fresh and I'm liking the black rocker cover aswell.

looking sweet bud,, dashboards are very hard to come by, ive had to ship one over from the uk to aus.

With the dashboard, as it was exposed to the elements it was not in the boest condition cosmetically when i got it. I could see there were no cracks and no drilled holes in it and guessed the dirt and grime was only on the surface.
I washed it with lukewarm water in the bathtub, just using a brush and washing up liquid needles to say the water was black coming off it.
Then sprayed it with Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber care, left it to soak in overnight, gave it a wipe and another coat of Autoglym and rubbed it in/off to polish it up. The pictures you see are the results. It did come up very well I must say.

Got myself a mishimoto thermostat



Also got replacement brake lines. These will replace all the hard lines that run the length of the chassis and from the ABS pump etc... total of 7 lines in the kit if i counted correctly. Then another 4 lines for each caliper which i had previously purchased.




The quality seems really good, as good as if not better than a lot of the big brand names. I bought the kit off Proline Motorsport, who were pointed out to me previously in this thread.

Now there was an issue when I ordered them, that issue was that they got lost in the post!! I informed Mitch (the owner of proline), and true to his word he sent me out a full brand new set to replace the ones I never got. The whole process from buying to receiving took about 3 months but Mitch always responded to any message I sent him and was honest with me every step of the way. You really can't say enough good things for a service like that.

How did you know the length that you need was this like a buy off the shelf kit ?

Yeah it was a gti-r kit. He must have made them before for the car and had all the measurements and fittings documented, so he can just make a kit when one is ordered.

This the e bay kit ?

The brake lines look good, are there any special regulations over there when changing to braided?

Yeah the same guy that makes the eBay kit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Pulsar-Gti-R-ABS-Delete-INTERNAL-Kit-Braided-Brake-Lines-Hoses-Nismo/282540463805?hash=item41c8b956bd:g:EAoAAOSwnK9ZSYae

https://www.facebook.com/Prolinemotorsport/

Here is a closer look at the line and fittings. They also came with mounting clips.







I assume for motorsport there are brake line standards, but your regular yearly road worthiness check won't notice anything about the brake lines (unless they are rotten).

I decided to get some new front wishbones as the amount of work needed to clean up the old ones was not worth it. I still have new ball joints and a full set of polyurethane bushings, but I think I will just keep them in stock for when the ones wear out. New rear droplinks and a 3" Vibrant interlock flexi.



So I started to grind the underside of the car, that includes paint, surface rust and old underseal! I am using 80 grit Flap Discs on an angle grinder. Have gone through 2 already, a disc only lasts 30 mins, but really does a very good job. My air compressor was good enough to soda blast the inside of the car, but it is not powerful enough for the grime on the underneath of the car.

I am happy enough with the condition underneath. I have a few sample pictures, will take more tomorrow evening when i get a bit more work done.


Some before grinding



Left hand side rear




1 picture of the back left


You can see in the pictures, there is still some patches of underseal with the rust dust stuck to it. I cant decide do i strip this underseal and put fresh stuff on or leave it, whenever I grind it off, the metal underneath is always nice. So i am considering leaving it on.

Here is the tricky bit though. The Jacking points. Can anybody give me some advice on what to do here? You can see to the left of the jacking point the sills are good underneath the paint, also to the right there is solid steel. So I am not sure, I don't replace the sills, but do i cut out the jacking points and weld in some new steel? Do I cut them off and take a bit of the sill and replace around it, just in case there is some rust spreading. What do people think?