As I said I would this is my new toy :)

That's indeed an Apexi AFC NEO, it a fuelling piggy back ecu . wiring looked awful in old shell :-O
Perhaps settings or base map wrong on the FC ! what injectors & MAF you got ...

Yeah im just thinking if some how you have conflicting equipment there which could have been doing things. Now you only have the power fc in there that may not be working with the z32 or a whole host of other things? Who knows really lol

Thats the old car Mr B that the engine came out of.

Bandy brought the Power FC engine, turbo, 700cc injectors or there abouts and a z32 maf so if that little fella was sold seperately and did have some setting on it that could explain why it didnt run with just the power FC?

I would start back at the start here. What was on the car what is not now ? Even if you buy a acc neo unless you set it up exactully the same it's no use. If your using a standard loom then it's a case of nothing should be altering airflow signal etc. Has the Ecu been spiked when z32 was wired etc if so it won't start in a million year.it should not be to hard to trace fault. I could understand if it started and ran Poor but not to start. Basics fuel spark etc trace it from there

It is starting Johnny. But only revs up to around 2500rpm then dies.
What I think has happened I the apexi power fc has been mapped with the apexi neo controlling the afr before the power fc.
So now the neo is missing the power fc is now getting the wrong signal from the afm.
At a guess it's cutting the fuel after start up? Delivers enough fuel to the injectors on start up but then cuts the fuel hence why it stalls right away?

As all the above have said... Z32 750cc injectors and power FC Ecu, car starts and runs with stock ECU, MAF and Injectors..
After speaking to Thomas he said the car was mapped with the Neo in place but it was never touched "apparently" so im thinking among the lines of if it was mapped with it in place and the way the wires have been spliced then something is signaling the wrong place..

I have had the ECU opened and their is no smell of bust diods and no sign of burnt/damaged tracks but even so it will be wise to get it tested, that said if I can my a chance of a mirracle get hold of the neo and get it wired back in and it does start and run.. I can then take it away and get the neo removed propperly by soemone who knows what tehy are doing.

At the moment the Neo is actually my cheapest option but as I am no pro its a bit of a guessing game.
Hopefully the tooth fairy arrives and leaves a magic coin under my pillow that will persuade this Martyn Pirie to sell me the Neo.

If he does I can can splice it back in propperly and give things another go.

otherwise im stuck at stock for the fore seable future.

Easiest option is to get it to someone who maps the car, drive it down stock then fit the z32 and injectors plus power fc in the car park or whatever then get them to sort it all out. No point plicing a shitty neo in then hoping the map will be ok. As I said there are lots of factors like you mentioned (shit wiring) so much much better to just start over again and get it mapped properly then its done and done once!

Which basically is the same as what Johnny says

So who has a trailer to drive me 4 hours ish to Essex when bob has time lol, I live up in the lakes I honestly don't know anyone or herd of anyone reputable nearer than bob. Your right shroom I know you are but financially at the moment it's just not possible, if I can't get this bit for sensible money... as in he paid 60 quid for it, then I can at least try. But for now the girl will have to stay standard until I have the money.

I don't mind it staying standard infact it's probably not a bad thing for a bit. It would just be nice to know that if I wanted the extra power I just had to press down a little further. Plus I don't like to be beaten.

If you can get a neo chep good luck, I am sure they go for over £150.
I am sure the wiring should be similar to the old apexi afc's but don't quote me on that.

Here is the wiring for the missing apexi neo.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/neo_diagram.pdf

Here is a link showing mapping with an apexi neo on a gtir not being touched. Just being adjusted with the apexi aver boost controller.



But I am sure with the wiring diagram you now have from the apexi neo, and if you can trace the loose wires and work them back to the correct ecu pin out, and make sure the pfc wires are all going to the correct ecu pin outs. It should run, but would need re mapping.

Or worst case scenario, un plug the pfc and apexi neo wires, re wire all back to ecu, then drive to get set up again.

I am totally lost thought the neo wires were on the old loom ? I know a way of basic set up via hand commander to get it close but can you not just fully pack the Ecu or take just it to get a map put on for your set up and that will be fairly close then drive it for a map ?

The neo wires are on the old loom, my loom is Un touched

If I can't get the neo the best bet for me is to save up the money and have it mapped out as stated.

At the moment the car runs happily on the standard maf standard ecu and standard injectors.

Just to add to this as everytime I read whats going on their is a lot of opinions and bits of info and mis confusion ..

If the guy who currently has the Neo gets back in touch and sells it for sensible money, that is now apparently every bit from the car that the engine came from.. So it "should" run just fine.
If how ever by some random chance I have managed to pop the ECU then im a feckin dumb ass and shouldnt be touching things.

Even if I hand my ECU to someone to test and confirm it works.. It still wont work on a standard wiring because its been mapped for the dodgy wiring.. So my next option is to send the ECU off for "Standard" map... Well that would be sweet if the nearest decent spot for tuning was on my doorstep and I didnt have to drive it with a guessed map..
I dont have a trailer to pop the car on and on my licence unfortunatly I missed out on the trailer part by a couple of months.. So I would have to hire trailer and driver...

So to get to Bob.. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/Pembroke+Ct,+Kendal+LA9+5JA,+UK/The+Vintners,+Southend-on-Sea+SS2+5RZ,+UK/@53.0241628,-3.2754083,7z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x487c8de26e4f699f:0x6c09ede224b236f0!2m2!1d-2.7524426!2d54.3161704!1m5!1m1!1s0x47d8d8fd7964992b:0x960f01659bca3437!2m2!1d0.7104826!2d51.5632003!

it isnt just a quick trip down the road... The cost of fuel alone im into a small fortune if I drive my car down and probaly more if I hire a trailer and driver for a couple of days.

So If I cant get this pain in the rectum Neo then my option comes to get the Power FC tested.. If its confirmed working then it becomes a case of planning a trip to Bob on standard ECU, MAF and injectors and get it mapped up.
As I say the Neo is currently and unfortunatly my personal best option. unless soemone who knows what they are doing happens to have a hand controller that will fit my ECU and they are up for a day of setting up.. Nudge Nudge wink wink

For future reference to myself when I negotiate a fully running engine and ancilarys make dam sure I get all the f'in bits required!
On a plus side I dont think I could learn any other way than the hard way.. The mother of necesatiy and all that

So tonight its off with the sump, a de rust a prime and re paint and pop it back on to fix my leaky gasket. Happy days.

I fixed the oil leak this saturday and cleaned up my sump at the same time.

The paint I used was a self priming and rust killing apparently it does what it says on the tin.


It was pretty rusty..


Removed all the surface rust and loose paint...



The finished Product


A simple job but still rather satisfying even though no one will see it. Its now back on the car and sealed up I just need to put the oil in when it arrives on monday.

Suppose I'd best keep an update on the little beasty.

I had her out last weekend, managed to find a wheep from one of the turbo oil lines, and I believe that the dam input shaft bearing is on its way oout.got a few bits on at home over the next few weeks so won't have chance to do much but I'd like to get the battery terminals changed for ones that fit the new race battery and hopefully get a good quality solar charger to keep it safely charged up.

Just another quick update, I havnt driven the old girl since the last little test run, I have how ever purchased a new boost gauge just to make sure its not doing anything daft as advised, I have spoken to bob and he has given me a few pointers so I can at least make sure the car is running safely enough so I can get it to him.
Carbon canister has been removed as it sounded like a bag of rice
I just need to save up another coupld of hundred quid to get it sorted so as I can get an MOT on it and get it down to Bob.

Ahhh It happens again, the clutch ratlle some of you may now about wasnt a simple task of release bearing or anything simple so the gearbox is now off to get rebuilt this week as it stands the poor girl is up on stands looking a little sorry for herself, on the plus side at least I know the box should be reliable with its new bearings and so on. Im following another post on here that has a similiar issue as its been mentioned it could be something bent on the clutch so ill also see how that turns out and may have to dip into the mapping funds yet again for more parts.

Well whilst its all out out it gives me a chance to replace a load of bushes and CV boots.

Oh the joys it may be on the road by then end of summer

Keep on with it dude you are getting there :-)

What a bummer, hope it all goes smoothly.

Ah that sucks, so many stories of box rebuild lately do you what exactly was wrong with it?

gtir_woody wrote:Ah that sucks, so many stories of box rebuild lately do you what exactly was wrong with it?

Cheers guys I seem to be collecting parts and not getting them fit lol

As for what is exactly wrong... the only way I can explin... if any of you have ever herd a radiator fan clipping a pipe you havnt fixed in place?? that sort of ticking/clicking sound initially only happend when clutch was pressed in but now happening in nutrel with no foot on the clutch so im at a loss, i couldnt tell you if it does it when driving but i hadnt noticed it. Saying that I havnt exactly driven it much as it hasnt been set up and was scraed to death of braking it so its really only been a steady cruise just to make sure everyhting was ok but clearly its not. Car runs through gears with no issues or clunking, the gear stick is a bit like stirring soup but the bushes are worn so i got new ones for this as well.

Interestingly I looked at my clutch plates yeterday and noticed un even scoring/marking mainly at the bottom of the surface toward the centre of the plate. I still reckon im best getting that box rebuilt for 200 sheets I think going forward its pennys well spent.

You won't get much done to a box for £200
reality is basic light rebuild of just few necessities likely rack up parts bill of close to £300, if buy all bearings & seals & usual syncro parts & shims/c-clips for proper in spec assembly you would spend well over £500 in just parts.
Your noise sounds more likely be something clutch or something catching in flywheel ring gear !
With clutch pressed the gearbox has no engine drive & motionless, if noise very much even to engine rpm changes then more likely clutch (inc release bearing & fork) or flywheel (ringgear catching something) ...
Before doing anything to box check it's condition from what you know from driving it & inspecting input shaft float with dial gauge & doing torque turn test on it .
Your money best saved for sorting mapping proper with the power-fc & any minor faults that found during mapping or during first 1000miles of using it ...

Sounds like noise might be bearing release?
Box rebuild for £200 is pushing it even if you do it yourself,
Is this something you would attempt?

Good advice Mr B as always, Sorry when I said rebuild... I didnt mean a full everything in the box job. I ment simple inspection and bearing replacement I pay for parts this is just labour. Its not soemthing I would currently under take with a lack of space at the moment, I would also like it put back together this year

I dead read soemwhere about clutch plate being bent and catching or something else catching but in honesty I looked and couldnt see nothing. At the time I couldnt find a reliable answer and figured if im going to have it all mapped up then I suppose its best to at least at have it inspected to make sure. When I took it down teh guy explianed that their is a small amount of excessive play in the end shaft??

I already have new release bearing for it and the clutch is spanking new with less than 100km on it since fitted (Not hammered).

If it every stops bloody raining up here in Cumbria at the moment ill get the box back in once it arrives back hopefully soon.

In the meantime ive got Pleeeennnty to be getting on with on teh old goat I should really start taking pics but I figure you would all be sick of seeing engines on the floor by now

Well its been some time since ive updated this project. Ive had a few things going on.
Anyways here goes... i had the suspect gearbox rattle... I checked the bell housing through the inspection plate on the bottom and couldnt see anything except metal shards!!. I was not impressed as you can imagine. So after a phone call and a natter with spike it was suspected either wrongly put back together or possibly the wrong flywheel... so back out it all comes.. the box has now been rebuilt (not by me lol). After i removed the box and the flywheel i found the issue, the flywheel was rubbing on a the protruding engine plug..
Uncertain what was at fault measuremants were taken and the plug is correct.
A bit of research later it actually turns out the new flywheel and clutch is from a silvia or equivelant rwd so issue found.
Nothing has been done for a bit since that, the engine is now up at my workshop cleaned and ready for paint. Something i could do for very little money.

Once i figure how i can upload pics from my mobile i shall put some up.