Engine swap

Right so some time this week Im gonna start on swapping over old and new parts from my old engine to the new one, does anyone have any suggestions or tips on certain parts when replacing them.

For example I was going to find TDC on both engines so that when I swap the ignition parts they will be almost set at the right timing (if that makes sense), is this the right thing to do.

any help would be much appreciated.

You need a timing light and to be able to do the ecu lock to set timing, take your time and look around for info. Make sure you build oil pressure with out the spark plugs in the engine before starting.

To build oil pressure dan do I turn the flywheel (engine) over and over manually???

How do I and what is an ECU lock?

cheers

no no, to rise the pressure, just turn up the key, but the plugs needs to be removed.
once oil pressure is ok, put back in your plugs!

don't know about the ECU lock...

ah ok wasn't far off

plugs can be in just disconect coil lead

johnny gtir wrote:plugs can be in just disconect coil lead

And that's the best way to fuck your big end bearings johnny, when building oil pressure on a fresh engine you need to remove any load I.e compression from the engine...same as never start a car from cold with your foot on the clutch as that screws the thrust bearings...

You need to get the car running and fully up to temp, then disconnect the tps or use nissan consult, rev the car a few times and it should lock the timing on the ecu ( the car uses scatter timing otherwise to maintain idle) now making sure the idle is below 950rpm (critical this bit) set the timing to 18degrees before TDC using a strobe light on cylinder 1.....if you can't do it get some one who can as fucking this up on a fresh engine will kill it very quickly!

thanks Dan but your starting to scare me I have also got a haynes manual for sunny's so hopefully this may come in handy but id better get some bedtime reading in before starting

i should of read it properly sorry i did not realise it was fresh built. i just thought it was a different lump and he was swapping parts.Dose same apply if its already ran in etc but just been stood for a while ?

Yep

yep as dan says
you need to bring oil pressure up with minimal loading on a new build engine or any engine that's been standing for any amount of time or you will put excess loading on dry moving parts which is really not a good idea.

this is all explained in our run in procedure

set base timing to 18degrees whilst running in (that's safe) with v power
once run in and you start to up the power youll need to get afr's checked on rollers and also get them to listen for excess knock levels when adjusting timing and boost.

Came across this the other day. When I looked in my distributor the big mark was nowhere close to the sensor at TDC. Is this for a different dissy?

http://www.sr20forum.com/garage-tips-tricks/209809-how-set-your-ignition-timing-no-timing-light-needed.html

agree with nearly everyone on there

get a timing light lol

Yep, that's what I thought.

gtirus wrote:
this is all explained in our run in procedure

Bob, is this run-in procedure listed on this forum? I've checked the sections, but couldn't spot it. I was previously advised to just disconnect the fuel pump, then crank the engine over with the starter to build up oil pressure. Obviously that was totally wrong, so I'd be keen to read the correct recommended procedure!

Note that this is primarily for my track GTiR, which will sit for a period of a 3-6 months over the winter months, so I'd like to learn a gentle way of coaxing it back to healthy life (i.e. if there is anything else I should do other than remove the plugs to build up oil pressure)

Cheers,
Dave

our run in doesn't go into detail with engine start up, it just says about building oil pressure prior to start up
but il put it up as a sticky tomorrow with it slightly more elaborated

gtirus wrote:our run in doesn't go into detail with engine start up, it just says about building oil pressure prior to start up
but il put it up as a sticky tomorrow with it slightly more elaborated

Great stuff Bob!

Many thanks,
Dave

GTI-R US wrote:our run in doesn't go into detail with engine start up, it just says about building oil pressure prior to start up
but il put it up as a sticky tomorrow with it slightly more elaborated

Bob, have you managed to put this run-in procedure up yet? I couldn't find it when I looked for it I just wouldn't mind reading it before I turn mine over for the first time in over a year.................

Cheers,
Dave

sorry dave I forgot all about it, il do it in a minute for you in the engine build section

Prob sounds abit stupid  but can someone tell me where i point the timing light, is it on the crank pulley or is there a window into the flywheel housing??? Got the car fired up and idles abit rough thanks

Crank pulley mate, ther should be 5 or 6 lines init representing 5 atdc, tdc, 5 btdc 10 btdc, 15 btdc and 20 btdc cant remember which way its marked but you should rind a pic on the web somewhere. If you get it a bit wrong the car will run crap so its fairly easy to work out.
Hope that helps
Paul

thanks mate only asked cos ive lost my haynes manual  so will crack on tonight and get it sorted cheers