Rebuild Time

Thought I should start a rebuild thread for my Pulsar after getting it home a few weeks back and getting on with some jobs that needed doing.

Originally I killed my brake pads on a track day so bought some new discs and yellow stuff pads, and things have kind of escalated from there...... Now I have an 100+ line spread sheet of things I want to check and replace to get the car ready to hit the tarmac again.



At least I feel I got my moneys worth.... lol

As the car had been sat for a bit the clutch master cylinder has gone. So Ive bought a new master and slave and manged to get the slave and new braided line on last night.



I hope to get a few more bits done this week

Cheers

nothing wrong with those pads mate, just need de-glazed with some emery paper!

I did consider that.... Just the grinding noise was getting on my nevres abit and getting me some funny looks....

Nice mate, I’m sure you’ll notice the difference with those new pads

So abit of a good and bad night on the car yesterday. Trying to connect the clutch flexy to the steel hard line.

It turns out it the OEM has a female swage on and my aftermarket flexy needs a male swage. So cut the end off but my brake line flaring tool isn't man enough to swage the steel line, it just pushes it back through the clamp.  

I'm going to make up a new copper line to replace it and decided to take the inlet plenum off to give more access to the clutch MC which is also being replaced.

After struggling with the clutch I decided to fit the 340lph fuel pump I bought off Bob a while back, I've done a small mod to the fuel pump housing to help lower the fuel pump even more and hopefully help prevent any fuel starvation on those LH corners.

I've made a small cut in the end of the housing as pictured below.



Then by using the some of the old rubber pump surround and an array of cable ties fitted the new pump as low as possible.





Hopefully this will help but we'll see....

Few more jobs done last night, swapped the fuel pump gauze to the other style with the plastic frame and got the new clutch MC fitted, lines done and bleed up!

I have a clutch again!

Well done that man! The clutch MC isn't a job I've done on an R before and it looks really awkward. Did you tilt the engine forward at all to swap it or just have small hands and double wrists?
just curious 

Haha no engine tilting, I just took the plenum off and looks like my car has been cut back abit in the swage above the MC on the bulkhead by a previous owner. Maybe to help access?

Not too bad a job though, I've had worse lol.

A bit of progress the other night, got the charcoal canister removed and breather pipes linked and mounted an oil breather pot in its place for the cam cover breather to go into rather than the inlet.



Also designed up a MAF mounting bracket to hold the Maf to the old battery tray holes as im relocating the battery to the boot.



And as i've taken out my radio out i've made an infill panel to go in the hole to mount a Boost, AFR and fuel pressure gauge in.



Parts currently getting laser cut

Oh nice, I like the gauge holder

any infor on removing the charcoal canister? did think this could be removed that easy.

steven_c wrote:any infor on removing the charcoal canister?  did think this could be removed that easy.

Its pretty easy actually, especially if you've got the engine out already.
The vent hose for the fuel tank (IIRC) goes into the bottom of the canister. This needs to be re-routed away from the engine bay somewhere (I extended the hose and looped it up & round then back down and tie wrapped it to the front anti-roll bar, under the floor).
There's another two vacuum lines that go into the top of the canister. One goes into the inlet manifold so cut this back and cap it off as you don't need it any more.
The other line goes into the air chamber underneath the inlet manifold.
At this location there's three nipples that are available to use for boost/vacuum.
What I've done is use one of these for my boost gauges (standard+after market, tee'd together) & one dedicated for the fuel pressure regulator, third is capped off. You could stick the line to the blow off valve here if you wanted but, I went the route of plumbing this into the nipples on top of the inlet manifold instead so just capped this one off.
The biggest ball ache out of the whole job will be trying to get the old pipes off the air chamber under the inlet. Not a problem obviously if the engine isn't in yet!
Its amazing how much room this frees up when done and makes it look a look tidier too 

Just as Mike Said ^^^^

I just got an inline steel reducer and linked the fuel tank breather pipe to the charcoal canister breather pipe ( but I think thats the one that comes out the base of the canister) that then goes into the inner wing / chassis rail as below.



And like Mike I to am going to use the air chamber under the manifold keeping the std and aftermarket boost gauge t'd together, then one for dedicated fuel pressure regulator and the other for the dump valve.

Keeping the wastegate off the fitting at the edge of the plenum.

gtir_woody wrote:Oh nice, I like the gauge holder

Thanks! I'll get a pic when all installed

A bit more done this eve with moving the battery to the boot, I made a bracket and mounted a kill switch in the centre arm rest. All wired in I just need to make a new tray to hold the battery in the boot now.

Managed to get abit more time on the pulsar last night. Got the maf sensor mounting bracket folded and welded up and fitted the centre consol gauge bracket to, ready for an afr and fuel pressure to go with the boost gauge.







Hope to get my battery tray done next week.

More progress again this eve, filter all mounted properly and done abit of a cut and shut job on the turbo pipe. So should have a better pipe run for the fmic. Just need to clean up the inside of it and pressure test it next.

Made a battery tray this eve to securely mount the battery in the boot

That filter mounting looks robust. I had an engine fault for ages because the MAF was knocking against the chassis. Took me ages to work it out and a proper mounting would've prevented it.
And your battery tray, that's loss good too. You could flog a few of those on eBay.

Doesnt look like that will be going anywhere

Thanks for the comments

My MAF was orginally floating in free space to! Didnt have any running issues but nice it's got a propper bracket now!

Hopefully the battery will be nice and secure, just got to decided where abouts in the boot to mount it. Maybe make a nice covering panel to.

I have a spare MAF mount cut if anyone wants it, and not sure about making the battery mounts for ebay, but again if anyone on here is after one I can knock one together.

Cheers

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t7300-johnny-gtir-s-one-of-the-fleet

Got to be rear left mate if looking from the boot spread the weight when only the driver is in. Cracking job your doing

johnny gtir wrote:http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t7300-johnny-gtir-s-one-of-the-fleet

Got to be rear left mate if looking from the boot spread the weight when only the driver is in. Cracking job your doing

That looks awesome, Loving the wheels and the motorsport holes in your tray! Back left it is then

Next on the list is the exhaust system, Much more to follow but this is a start....

They work very well mate I have one on my wide arch car