Air idle control valve

22660m is the air regulator
22662 is the aac valve
23781m is the cold start solinoid valve
Is how I see that

AAC valve is 23781m... https://www.nengun.com/cart/

nomad wrote:AAC valve is 23781m... https://www.nengun.com/cart/

That link just takes me to a blank page nomad?

He is right
22662 IACV-AIR REGULATOR ADAPTER

23781M  IACV-AAC VALVE

23781M also referred to on some as the fuel injection ideal speed control valve

Sorry pete thats what it was meant to show ....

its a bit fiddly to remove that whole unit from underneath the inlet manifold (I found anyway).
You could try removing the idle screw and squirting some carb cleaner in first to see if that does anything

Iacv-aac valve 2378154C00
Get it off and test and clean it with loads of carb/throttle body cleaner and compressed air, little shot of wd40 may help.
I expect they over £200 new and likely long wait/hard source as R specific, I would try source a known good used one if yours turns out be faulty .
Worth checking ecu temp sensor signal and tps setup, what maf you got, you run without lambda ?
assume it runs fine when open throttle !?

Nissan don't sell them anymore.
You can get them on ebay for around £180 I think tho.

weve got known good working units in stock if needed

Right! I'm going to try cleaning it up first and see if that helps, if not how much do you sell them for bob?

200sx s14 is the same and i have one on at the moment.

^ s14 200sx 180 sx silvia have different part # 2378169F10 (although first 5 important p/n digits same)
looks much same (never compared them side by side though) so interesting know it fits/works .

Well I've taken it out, stripped it completely,cleaned it and wd40'd it, put it back together and it still just cuts out after idling for a short while, the afr starts leaning out and then it just cuts out! And it's only done this since the turbo went! That's been fully rebuilt (with a bigger exhaust wheel) so what the hell could it be??? I'm going to take it for mapping next month but ideally would like to get it sorted before then.....

Vac leak?

I seem to remember a couple guys that removed all that idle control gubbins completely and never had any issues with stalling or dodgy idle, definitely sounds like something else is wrong. I'd tend to agree with Stu, it does sound like an air leak somewhere...maybe between turbo and maf if you've had that pipe off?

It just seems extremely coincidental that as my turbo went this also happens...I'll check the maf to turbo pipe, I'll give the maf a good clean as well and check as much piping as possible, but I'm sure there's more to this than a leak....

Is it possible that while changing the turbo you knocked the dizzy cap or the dizzy itself ie timing out?

mike74 wrote:Is it possible that while changing the turbo you knocked the dizzy cap or the dizzy itself ie timing out?

I didn't go near it tbh, I'd of thought you'd have to hit it pretty damn hard to knock the timing out wouldn't you?