Turbo to downpipe snapped stud.

Hi guy's. I had to take my downpipe for access whilst doing clutch change and one of the studs snapped the other two are ok. It's the stud closest to the the radiator.

Has anyone ever had this happen? If so do you have any advice on the best way to try and remove it? It has snapped off flush with the downpipe flange if that makes sense so their is about an inch of the stud left remaining.

I have done a little bit of research and would like to remove it without having to remove the Turbo as I really don't want to create anymore problems if I can help it.
Some have said i'll need to heat it cherry red, some have said weld a nut on the stud but it may not take as they are hardened steel, or some have said try to get two nuts on it, lock them together and then try to remove.

What do you guy's think?

Id try the two nuts first with some heat then if that doesnt work try weld the nut on just wind the nut on and weld the center if that doesnt work then hacksaw it off and drill it out and re tap it ...thats my way i would go about it in that order just my opinion ...

Irwin stud extractors butterfly type check tool section for a picture if it snaps flush drill it and nut and bolt it

I always forget about stud extractors ...guess im still stuck old times lol ...

I already have a set of those Irwin stud extractors The set in the box but not the extra ones.

They are very good do you reckon I should try those first of should I try the double nut method first?

I'm a little nervous as the car is on my Uncle's drive and he's a bit of a grumpy git, so I want to hurry up and get it on the road lol.

I would try the two nut method first as the extractors chew the thread up so you want get a nut on after ...

Yep that what I was thinking.Thanks you two I shall give it a go tomorrow and see how I get on.

Irwin extractors are mainly for rounded hex bolts or do they have specific set for studs ?
Heat would be good & spraying water on stud so it cools & contracts faster & hopefully temp shocks the stud free. I have some stud removal & fitting sockets but they rubbish on real seized fixings. couple of nuts or getting the gas torch & mig out works wonders.

Well I don't have my own heat torch so I might have to try to borrow one, I do have a can of loctite freeze spray but I'm not sure how effective that will be.

I can borrow a inverter welder from work if I need it but the easiest one for me is to try the double nut method or as a final try I'll use the nut extractors, if it snaps I'll try drilling it like Johnny said.

I did watch a video on YouTube where a guy heated up the stud (on a bench though) and then smeared it in wax which he said gets drawn into the threads and acts as kind of lubricant or something. It was quite interesting and it worked for him, but it may be a bit harder in situ.

The joys of motoring ey. I'll give it a try though hopefully I can get it out. I ordered those plug tools by the way

^
Plumbers style gas torches are good for heating studs/nuts up & can be cheap for basic one .

Grab-it or grab-bit screw/stud extractors are very good! Used em to remove exhaust manifold studs on a few occasions

I don't have the patience for applying heat