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as above with title this job can be done with engine in situ
the job is not hard to do but youll need a full tool kit and most importantly a torque wrench.
1. youll need to drain engine oil so sump is dry, do this when engine oil is at running temp as it will flow out a lot quicker, once drained you will need to remove the ex downpipe as this will obstruct removal of aluminium part of sump
2. youll need to remove the metal lower part of sump using 10mm socket
3, you will then need to remove the aluminium part of sump, not forgetting the 2 small 10mm nuts behind the cover plate at rear, do not drop the nuts or they will drop into the gearbox bellhousing so keep a magnet on them as you undo them. there is a baffle plate attached to aluminium sump which youll need to remove to get to some of the 12mm bolts at the front holding the pan.
4. once all the bolts are removed from sump and its carefully prised free you will then need to undo the baffle plate all have 10mm bolts also the oil pickup pipe will need removing this is held in place by 2 x 12mm bolts and one 10mm holding the bracket.
5. once all these bits are out the way you will then see the bigend holders on bottom of each conrod. turn the engine over by hand (clockwise) until no's I and 4 rods are at bottom so you can access the 2 x 14mm bolts on each holder (do one at a time) then undo the 2 bolts retaining the bearing holder and lightly wriggle the cap and it will come free.
6. once the cap is free you will find half of the bearing sitting in the rod cap and the other half will be in the lower part of conrod so youll need to carefully push the rod up a little and pivot it to ne side of the crank to gain access to get it out being very carefull not to damage the crank by marking or scoring the face in any way.
7. once you have the bearings out you will be able to examine them for adverse wear, if they are a coppery colour at the main thrust points then this is quite normal wear and is a good indicator that the crank is in good condition. if there are deep ridges / grooves in the shells or they have burnt and mis-shaped then there is a strong possibility that the crank has scores in it also so therefore it will be a waste of time and money continuing the process any further as the new shells will pick up and wear out in no time at all, so then you would need to remove the crank completely to get it checked over.
8. assuming all is good with the crank and there are no scores or markings on the surface you can now fit the new bearings.
youll need to check first of all to make sure they are the correct size. you can do this by looking on the back of the old bearing (it will have a stamp on it saying either std or maybe 0.25) if the latter then the crank has already been ground and youll need to buy .25 oversize bearings as standard (std) will be too big!
9. when installing the bearings make sure first off that the crank journal is spotlessly clean (same applies to everything you replace) so use some lint free type cloth when cleaning the items.
its a good idea to use installation lube when fitting the new parts back or if you haven't any then use some heavy grade oil such as gearbox oil or 20w/50 as this will protect the bearings on initial start up.
make sure the new bearings are seated in the holders correctly and that the nitches are firmly seated into the holder nitches on rod and bearing cap.
10. once you have fitted the bearings into the holders you can now re-assemble and torque the bearing caps up to the required torque which is 20nm then 60-65 degrees.
once torqued you then need to check for any tight spots by turning the engine over by hand, so remove the 4 spark plugs so there is no compression and turn the engine over by placing a socket or spanner on the crank pulley (the engine should turn over smoothly with no tight spots) if this is so then turn engine until no's 2-3 are accessible at the bottom of their stroke and repeat the above process with them.
11. once they have all been changed and you are happy with the way the engine turns over you can start to re-assemble all the parts in reverse order.
when sealing the sump use a good quality sealant such as Loctite 5910 or tiger seal or Nissan quality sealant, do not use cheap sealants such as instant gasket and the like.
when applying sealant to sump make sure you only put a bead around the outer edge around 5mm in then smooth it out a little with your finger so its even.
if you apply lots of it then it will ooze out inside of sump and you could end up with chunks breaking free and blocking up your oil pick up which will lead to a major problem so apply it sparingly but make sure theres enough to create a good seal all round.
points to note
when starting the engine for first time crank it over but pull the connector from injection resistor pack so the vehicles oil pressure is allowed to build up, by pulling the resistor pack connector off the injectors will pass no fuel so engine will not start, so crank it over for 10-20 secs.
once the engine has started do not rev the living daylights out of it, check for any oil leaks when upto running temp before driving the vehicle.
when driving for first time monitor the oil pressure to make sure all is good remembering that the stock gauges can be very in-accurate but as long as you know what the previous readings were prior to doing the job then the new readings should be higher or at least the same pressure as before, so if there is a pressure drop then something is not right.
that's about it in a nutshell guys, any questions then your welcome to fire away.
the job is not hard to do but youll need a full tool kit and most importantly a torque wrench.
1. youll need to drain engine oil so sump is dry, do this when engine oil is at running temp as it will flow out a lot quicker, once drained you will need to remove the ex downpipe as this will obstruct removal of aluminium part of sump
2. youll need to remove the metal lower part of sump using 10mm socket
3, you will then need to remove the aluminium part of sump, not forgetting the 2 small 10mm nuts behind the cover plate at rear, do not drop the nuts or they will drop into the gearbox bellhousing so keep a magnet on them as you undo them. there is a baffle plate attached to aluminium sump which youll need to remove to get to some of the 12mm bolts at the front holding the pan.
4. once all the bolts are removed from sump and its carefully prised free you will then need to undo the baffle plate all have 10mm bolts also the oil pickup pipe will need removing this is held in place by 2 x 12mm bolts and one 10mm holding the bracket.
5. once all these bits are out the way you will then see the bigend holders on bottom of each conrod. turn the engine over by hand (clockwise) until no's I and 4 rods are at bottom so you can access the 2 x 14mm bolts on each holder (do one at a time) then undo the 2 bolts retaining the bearing holder and lightly wriggle the cap and it will come free.
6. once the cap is free you will find half of the bearing sitting in the rod cap and the other half will be in the lower part of conrod so youll need to carefully push the rod up a little and pivot it to ne side of the crank to gain access to get it out being very carefull not to damage the crank by marking or scoring the face in any way.
7. once you have the bearings out you will be able to examine them for adverse wear, if they are a coppery colour at the main thrust points then this is quite normal wear and is a good indicator that the crank is in good condition. if there are deep ridges / grooves in the shells or they have burnt and mis-shaped then there is a strong possibility that the crank has scores in it also so therefore it will be a waste of time and money continuing the process any further as the new shells will pick up and wear out in no time at all, so then you would need to remove the crank completely to get it checked over.
8. assuming all is good with the crank and there are no scores or markings on the surface you can now fit the new bearings.
youll need to check first of all to make sure they are the correct size. you can do this by looking on the back of the old bearing (it will have a stamp on it saying either std or maybe 0.25) if the latter then the crank has already been ground and youll need to buy .25 oversize bearings as standard (std) will be too big!
9. when installing the bearings make sure first off that the crank journal is spotlessly clean (same applies to everything you replace) so use some lint free type cloth when cleaning the items.
its a good idea to use installation lube when fitting the new parts back or if you haven't any then use some heavy grade oil such as gearbox oil or 20w/50 as this will protect the bearings on initial start up.
make sure the new bearings are seated in the holders correctly and that the nitches are firmly seated into the holder nitches on rod and bearing cap.
10. once you have fitted the bearings into the holders you can now re-assemble and torque the bearing caps up to the required torque which is 20nm then 60-65 degrees.
once torqued you then need to check for any tight spots by turning the engine over by hand, so remove the 4 spark plugs so there is no compression and turn the engine over by placing a socket or spanner on the crank pulley (the engine should turn over smoothly with no tight spots) if this is so then turn engine until no's 2-3 are accessible at the bottom of their stroke and repeat the above process with them.
11. once they have all been changed and you are happy with the way the engine turns over you can start to re-assemble all the parts in reverse order.
when sealing the sump use a good quality sealant such as Loctite 5910 or tiger seal or Nissan quality sealant, do not use cheap sealants such as instant gasket and the like.
when applying sealant to sump make sure you only put a bead around the outer edge around 5mm in then smooth it out a little with your finger so its even.
if you apply lots of it then it will ooze out inside of sump and you could end up with chunks breaking free and blocking up your oil pick up which will lead to a major problem so apply it sparingly but make sure theres enough to create a good seal all round.
points to note
when starting the engine for first time crank it over but pull the connector from injection resistor pack so the vehicles oil pressure is allowed to build up, by pulling the resistor pack connector off the injectors will pass no fuel so engine will not start, so crank it over for 10-20 secs.
once the engine has started do not rev the living daylights out of it, check for any oil leaks when upto running temp before driving the vehicle.
when driving for first time monitor the oil pressure to make sure all is good remembering that the stock gauges can be very in-accurate but as long as you know what the previous readings were prior to doing the job then the new readings should be higher or at least the same pressure as before, so if there is a pressure drop then something is not right.
that's about it in a nutshell guys, any questions then your welcome to fire away.
Last edited by GTI-R US on 23rd October 2013, 2:12 pm; edited 4 times in total
