Knock (Det) Sensor

Finally got the Grey R back on the road and through the MOT but it was really running badly.
The ECU was showing fault code 34 which is the DET sensor. As it's almost an engine out job to get to it (yes I've still got the A frame in)I started to look for options and came across this:-

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1) The 'knock sensor' is in-operable after 4000rpm due to the amount of noise and vibration from the motor, so right at the most likely time detonation would take place the good old nissan sr20 "knock sensor" don't do squat.

2) The knock sensor on sr20's are a very common fault, if it is comming up with code 34 that does NOT mean your car is pinging it means your knock sensor is faulty - and your ecu will revert to a safe mode.

3) These things are dead set near impossible to get to, and even when you do they are quite espensive to replace

4) unless you are running a PFC the knock sensor is a worthless peice of crap, that is as far from a "safety mechanism" as bald tyres in the snow.

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So I soldered a resistor across the ECU terminals where the DET sensor should have been and the car runs smooth as silk - problem solved???

I only run standard boost etc so not sure after reading the above comments whether I really need to fix the problem or leave it as it is.

The det sensor is there for a reason get one fitted its not a big job did mine last year only took me 30mins

I Agree with scooby, the det sensor isn't that hard to do if you have the right tools. I did mine last summer with Y bracket fitted in about 30 mins!
Once its on ramps(shitty drive on halfords type) and you can get access from underneath and behind the transfer box looking fwd, get a few 1/4 inch drive extensions a knuckle joint and a 12mm socket and a strong light source. feed the socket knuckle and extensions through to det sensor until they meet then attach rachet and undo sensor. let it drop away and then unplug (same as injectors, but you'll have t do it one handed!)
Then connect new sensor to plug, put bolt through det sensor and then put a small bit of masking tape across the top of bolt and sensor to hold it together. Then refit socket (masking tape should stop it from dropping out) knuckle and extensions. then feed back in to position and slowly get it to bite in to threads with just extensions, once it bites attach rachet and tighten to specified torque.
Tape will break before correct torque is achieved, not really as bad as everyone makes out
hope this helps!

Thanks for the description, doesn't make it sound too difficult. I have to work outside so will get under and have a look when the weather gets a bit warmer and dryer...

Just make sure you disconnect the battery as the starter is close to where your working