Fuel Lines

Hello,

My car has been sitting in storage for a few years and has developed a fuel leak in the pipes underneath the car.

What are the correct fuel lines i need for this as im going to replace all the fuel lines?

Thanks in advance

Probably only the 'rubber' lines on top of the tank causing the leak
All the other lines from the back of the car to the engine bay are 'steel' so probably not them leaking.
Drop down the rear subframe, remove the tank and replace all the rubber lines.
Should be job done.
ps. the 'rubber' lines CAN'T be changed with the tank in, has to be removed.

I believe it is the steel lines leaking, i haven't looked properly yet but the rubber hoses on the tank were all replaced a while back, below is the area where the leak happened when it was started up

https://gyazo.com/55ec6ecee038f6f912ff3874fa2440ed
https://gyazo.com/be242d5b487cf25d7c1ef347c4410968

And as im going to strip the bottom down i figure replacing the brake and fuel lines would probably be a good idea

OK, haven't heard of the steel lines failing before, always a first though. This might help in locating new lines.
https://nissan.epc-data.com/pulsar/rnn14/3413-sr20det/engine/173/#173B_002

Thanks, ill actually investigate it further to make sure it isn't the rubber hoses.

Cheers for the link

Hey mate, I dont know off the top of my head but im sure we can find out. Are you looking at doing it yourself? Admittedly ive done the DIY route before and found getting someone who bends lines all the time does such a tighter/ neater job IMO, depends what you are after. They could size them up for you aswell

gtir_woody wrote:Hey mate, I dont know off the top of my head but im sure we can find out. Are you looking at doing it yourself? Admittedly ive done the DIY route before and found getting someone who bends lines all the time does such a tighter/ neater job IMO, depends what you are after. They could size them up for you aswell

hi, yeah will be doing myself but have mechanics on hand when i f*ck something up , what about braided hoses instead of the steel pipes, much more expensive route i assume? - not going for big power so just a reliable solution i guess

Read through first few threads in search result link below .
https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=005607328522575726129:arwfphstpgy&q=fuel%20lines&oq=fuel%20lines&gs_l=partner-generic.3...2819.5723.0.6117.10.10.0.0.0.0.236.1320.2j6j2.10.0.csems%2Cnrl%3D13...0.2916j1032012j10...1.34.partner-generic..10.0.0.TNthRXvdxZ4

Try and look at what burrows did with copper nickel line, he achieved factory fit and better material

Be very fussy how do it, I wouldn't use braided hose, teflon or nylon would be a choice or 8mm copper nickel which fit in factory pipe clips and fairly easy form .
Check your rubber hose too as 70% of hose on market sold for fuel is not correct grade, if hose not marked correct grade or no marks find some that is (most motor factors stock total garbage hose).
Info on rubber pipe grade in search results too (R9 R12 and R10 being submersible) .
To be honest fuel is easier than brakes to replace and has more material options and all it really takes is some care, pipe bending tools/tricks cheap and plentiful and copper nickel 8mm fuel line fairly cheap *DO NOT USE PLAIN COPPER*, that practise should be banned but amazing how many shops still use plain copper even in UK ! .
Nylon used on modern cars and you can buy kits with oem style fittings and fairly cheap and easy work with and more install flexibility vs copper nickel, teflon could go AN fittings and gets lot of motorsport/specialist use but not cheap do well .

Mr B wrote:Read through first few threads in search result link below .
https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=005607328522575726129:arwfphstpgy&q=fuel%20lines&oq=fuel%20lines&gs_l=partner-generic.3...2819.5723.0.6117.10.10.0.0.0.0.236.1320.2j6j2.10.0.csems%2Cnrl%3D13...0.2916j1032012j10...1.34.partner-generic..10.0.0.TNthRXvdxZ4

Try and look at what burrows did with copper nickel line, he achieved factory fit and better material

Be very fussy how do it, I wouldn't use braided hose, teflon or nylon would be a choice or 8mm copper nickel which fit in factory pipe clips and fairly easy form .
Check your rubber hose too as 70% of hose on market sold for fuel is not correct grade, if hose not marked correct grade or no marks find some that is (most motor factors stock total garbage hose).
Info on rubber pipe grade in search results too (R9 R12 and R10 being submersible) .
To be honest fuel is easier than brakes to replace and has more material options and all it really takes is some care, pipe bending tools/tricks cheap and plentiful and copper nickel 8mm fuel line fairly cheap *DO NOT USE PLAIN COPPER*, that practise should be banned but amazing how many shops still use plain copper even in UK ! .
Nylon used on modern cars and you can buy kits with oem style fittings and fairly cheap and easy work with and more install flexibility vs copper nickel, teflon could go AN fittings and gets lot of motorsport/specialist use but not cheap do well .

Cheers for that, had a look and found this, assume i would need 3 x 2.5 metres for the underneath?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarik-2-5Mtr-Cupro-Nickel-Kunifer/dp/B00CRGIUGQ

or this which is cheaper

https://www.diycarserviceparts.co.uk/25ft-x-malleable-cupro-copper-nickel-brake-petrol-car-pipe-8mm-cn8m-metric.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3smABhCjARIsAKtrg6IGX0HVhvFNKC-ayfomLQ-XIiL7jxHxcGUXbaIhdze2_HXXKPcwe7EaAuQTEALw_wcB

Hi Aim-One, I had the same issue whilst rebuilding my GtiR recently    https://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t7137p100-restoration-project    



I sourced the OEM mild steel green PVC covered piping in the USA and had it shipped over    https://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/coiled-tubing-poly-armour/     all you will need to do is size the pipes as the 3 fuel pipes are 2 differing OD's, the OEM spec brake pipe is also available if needed.  With regards to the fuel pipe the OEM one's have a bead flare on the end to help stop the rubber hose slipping off under pressure, these are a nightmare to form so just intalled a second hose clamp to ensure there was no risk of a leak.