Hks 264 spec sheet

Any one has spec sheet for them? Need to set them up properly.

Don't think there's much setting up to do, other than re-shimming the entire head, which you always have to do when fitting a different cam set. I suppose if you had adjustable timing gears you'd maybe want to degree them, but short of that it should be pretty much a drop in affair.

I need it for dialing in the cams correctly. Head's been skimmed and block as well.

There isn't anything to do but set the valve lash. I'm not sure what you're referring to. Do you have adjustable cam gears?

Yup i do.

after surface machining if final build height of block and deck with chosen gasket much less than standard spec cam timing will retard slightly, something like 1-1.25deg for 0.5mm .
Generally cam timing either set to standard or expected value good for your build spec and power band goals but best way dial them in is on the dyno so got the data to really know what timing working better .
If someone got any hks data docs for the rnn14 cams would be nice uploaded as I never seen any .

In a big nutshell Eero

It depends on much more than just dialling the cams in to any degree settings that are recommended to you, in reality its a dicey game to play if not taken into consideration whilst building the engine!
It depends on the entire engine spec/build, the turbo you are planning on using and where you want maximum response to be, as every adjustment has gains to be made but against those gains (just like radical suspension setup's) there will be other areas that suffer losses.

For example....We recently built an engine which was going to run a large turbo where the guy who owned it was not bothered about bhp figures nor topend speed, he wanted as fast a spool time as he could possibly get with the best driveability & throttle response possible with what he initially had.
He was running a 278 profile cams which he wanted to be reused which were really inpractical for use in a ltd revving Gtir engine especially with big turbo (Gtx3078r) so we set about advancing both cams by just over three deg without knowing in reality what the outcome would be despite checking valve overlap and clearances.
But have to say that when i mapped the car the difference in spool time was much much better as was indicated by the previous dyno printout and the final one once mapped. It actually started spooling the turbo by around 1,200-1500rpm earlier with a big punch at higher midrange, but overall Bhp figure was down around 35bhp over previous but torque figure had increased by around 60lbft and the car felt 'without doubt' much faster all the way through rev range.

Aftermarket cams are generally preset from factory in order to give the best all round performance for a road car by using 0 adjustment on stock sprockets.
You would only use / need adjustable cam sprockets if you have a special setup in mind and you want the absolute best from which ever cams you purchase.
Did you take into consideration the valve overlap, compression ratio etc when you built the engine (assuming youve built it)???

You need to be very careful what you do regarding dialling in the cams because if you have built the engine to have a raised comp ratio (have decked block and skimmed head) and you are using high expansion race pistons such as JE and the like. When car is used in a race enviorement and temps are up you get your maths wrong then you could well end up with valve to piston contact.
So working out your clearances & allowing some leaway is very important that you get the figures right

The less overlap you run will determine (dependant on other factors) how good the idle will be
With more overlap (get your maths right) your idle will be lumpy but youll get much better top end power(which is ideal for drag type use).

By advancing the intake cam three deg and retarding the exhaust cam same amount the overlap between the cams will be increased and idle will be a bit lumpier, but youll get good mid range power without big losses in top end power.

Retarding both cams by around three degress youll get better top end power but with bottom end losses.

Advancing both cams (2.5deg with Hks 264) will give you much better low to mid-range torque / power but it will be with a topend drop in power
 
If you advance intake cam and retard the exhaust cam same amount valve overlap will be larger which will affect the idle and make it a tad lumpy' but youll have good mid range power & torque, with some losses in top end performance.
By retarding both cams by three degress youll have good top end power but will be at expense of bottomend and low to mid range performance also turbo response time will be reduced if your using a large tubby, which is not ideal for a road car that you use on a regular basis 'especially if your using a big turbo'

So if i were you i would:
1. determine use of the car
2. Power you want to run and where you want that power to be so turbo choice is the first key prior to build
3. Once above have been finalised then build your engine (do a dummy build up) then work out how much overlap you can get away with safely allowing leaway for the unexpected such as a mis-shift, heat expansion etc
4. I would initially 0 the cams and see how she performs once mapped........If you allow for overlap to be increased or decreased in the build up then at least you know you can do it safely by reduced risk of any valve to piston contact should an unrelated problem occur

Shit my fingers aching after all that typing

Bob, top notch!
Circuit, sunday street.
Garrett 3071 0.86, but thinking of BW efr7163, loosly put together( biger clearence) for expansion. Ported, polished, balanced. Short piperun pwr barrel
I'm not after bragging rights so low and mid is my goal not after top end and most of all reliability!
Something I found:
Nissan Pulsar GTi-R (RNN14)
Engine
SR20DET(RNN14 model ONLY)
IN EX
Duration
264‹ 264‹
1mmLift Duration
222‹ 222‹
Cam Lift Max (mm)
11.00 10.50
Valve Lift Max (mm)
11.35 10.85
Valve Clearance (mm)
(Cam to Rocker at Cold condition)
0.14`0.17 0.14`0.17
@
@
Open Valve Timing
BTDC22‹ BBDC68‹
Close Valve Timing
ABDC74‹ A‚sDC28‹
Valve Timing (Max Lift)
110‹ 116‹
Over Lap
50‹
Max rpm
7000rpm
Valve Spring
RNN14 STD

Well based on above and assuming you are using the 3071 with larger housing (not sure on specs with the borg warner tubby so wont comment on it) you will have too much lag for a curcuit car so you will need to bring the turbo in a little sooner.

Other turbo to consider is the precision 6262 as ive seen superb results with these. Spool time is fast for a biggish tubby (similar to 2871) yet you can easily hit high 600bhp if you wished, im going with the 6282 on the Rasheen were building which could see 800bhp, they definately have far less lag than the 3071 or 3076.

So dependant on how much is removed from block face & head i would suggest that you advance both cams by 2 deg as a start point and i think you will be pretty much on the money with those settings.

Also i would buy some Brian Crower uprated springs but only use either the inner spring or outer (not both) or you will end up with a noisy top end similar to the shim clearances being out.
You could then raise the rev limit to around 7600 when you get it mapped.
Would also close the valve clearances down a tad from the suggested .14 -.17 to .10 -.12 cold and run rocker stoppers also.

Of course the final piece of the jigsaw lies with the tuner to get the best of everything for you without overly pushing for max power, that way you should have a very fast and hopefully reliable motor

Out of curiosity what box you planning on using?

Thanks for the info Bob. Tuby is t25 internally gated. There are Hks double springs. I'll see how 2deg would work for starters and work from there. The tuner of Gems ecu's is on top of his game here. Are you dry sumping the engine or use just upgraded oil pump?

Missed the last Q Bob, becker dogbox i have.