Moley's rebuild

Your car seem quite rot free pete or you got some known areas for repair ...

Stu wrote:Go orange in the bay and paint the engine and box black
Or maybe a deap plumb purple

Stu wrote:Go orange in the bay and paint the engine and box black
Or maybe a deap plumb purple

lol

The typical place has gone on both sides but hopefully only the outer skin. Got a nasty hole in passenger door so now have a replacement and just have a few general areas where ther is a mild surface rust; particularly in the engine bay. The paint was shot on the roof and thanks to the neighbours cat so was the bonnet. I pray there are no more suprises as the strip continues

Has the neighbours cat been told paws off or did the Pulsar get revenge

Havent seen it lately, but if its still about if/when the car return home it will be made aware its a no go zone

pulsarmoley wrote:The typical place has gone on both sides but hopefully only the outer skin. Got a nasty hole in passenger door so now have a replacement and just have a few general areas where ther is a mild surface rust; particularly in the engine bay. The paint was shot on the roof and thanks to the neighbours cat so was the bonnet. I pray there are no more suprises as the strip continues

My old house mates bastard dog jumped all over my old black e36. Had nail marks all over it. Stupid animals

Cant tell you how useful a ute has been for me tho I had to have something with some grunt lol D21 kingcab with a VG30DE it gets 530 ks to a tank which is better than the Rs 350ks lol

So spent sunday doing the rear of the car now, removing wheels brakes etc then came the bastard 22mm bolt that most poeple have had dealings with. Ive left it soaking and tomorrow it will be coming out one way or another. Also been fiddling about with engine bits and have come across a little dilemma. After removing the power steering adjuster bracket several times(dont ask) the thread in both holes fell out due to a helicoil breaking up. Now ive got 3 options: do i fit new helicoils; which im not fond of, drill and tap to the next size up or can i drill right through the casting and nut/bolt it? The third option i think would be ideal but need someone to confirm i can do this?

Agree about the third option but can't picture where you would be drilling. Sounds like a pain anyway. Hopefully that bolt is nice to you tomorrow.

If you look at the engine from the right, the 2 bolts furthest to the left on the water pump hold the power steering adjuster bracket. The holes don't go into the block which makes me think I could drill right through. I'll try and remember to get a photo of it today.

pulsarmoley wrote:So spent sunday doing the rear of the car now, removing wheels brakes etc then came the bastard 22mm bolt that most poeple have had dealings with. Ive left it soaking and tomorrow it will be coming out one way or another. Also been fiddling about with engine bits and have come across a little dilemma. After removing the power steering adjuster bracket several times(dont ask) the thread in both holes fell out due to a helicoil breaking up. Now ive got 3 options: do i fit new helicoils; which im not fond of, drill and tap to the next size up or can i drill right through the casting and nut/bolt it? The third option i think would be ideal but need someone to confirm i can do this?

Why not try some of the stuff I am putting to market shortly Pete?

it held a stud in cyl head and torqued it to over 70nm to the point where stud was going to break and still did not budge, much stronger than a helicoil

GTI-R US wrote:

pulsarmoley wrote:So spent sunday doing the rear of the car now, removing wheels brakes etc then came the bastard 22mm bolt that most poeple have had dealings with. Ive left it soaking and tomorrow it will be coming out one way or another. Also been fiddling about with engine bits and have come across a little dilemma. After removing the power steering adjuster bracket several times(dont ask) the thread in both holes fell out due to a helicoil breaking up. Now ive got 3 options: do i fit new helicoils; which im not fond of, drill and tap to the next size up or can i drill right through the casting and nut/bolt it? The third option i think would be ideal but need someone to confirm i can do this?

Why not try some of the stuff I am putting to market shortly Pete?

it held a stud in cyl head and torqued it to over 70nm to the point where stud was going to break and still did not budge, much stronger than a helicoil

Tell more more Mr Bob...

So today i dragged the rear subframe out and stripped all the components off it, the hubs still have their lower arms attached thanks to the fookin 22mm bolt but they will be no match for my tools at work. Pulled the end of the diff casing off and looks spotless inside; not that i was expecting to find anything. It sounds silly but im even questioning whether to change the bearings and seals as the look good. Definately will be replacing the subframes bushes for something decent as they are fooked!

If they look fine I would reuse them. If they do leak in the future its not a huge job to whip the diff off again.

Yeah thats what im thinking, i know they arent expensive to replace but im of a 'if it aint broke dont fix it' approach

What did you end up doing about that thread mate?

Nothing yet, as its not stopped me from modifying engine brackets, i shall wait for a tube of Bob's miracle metal weld.

p.s. Bob if you are reading this 'Miracle Metal Weld' is copyrighted under Moley enterprises

You could get some royalties out of that name

Gotta be worth a snickers bar at least

Ok so using the festive holiday to crack on with the old girl. Decided to modify the rear subframe as i know sometimes the exhaust knocks as a 3" system is a little close in places. Photos arent that brilliant but you get the idea

pulsarmoley wrote:Ok so using the festive holiday to crack on with the old girl. Decided to modify the rear subframe as i know sometimes the exhaust knocks as a 3" system is a little close in places. Photos arent that brilliant but you get the idea

That's strange (the knocking on the frame). I have a 3" mandrel bend system and have never heard it knock and mine is lowered to 325mm ride height.

In fairness it hardly ever happens on my latest system as i think its better made but im considering wrapping the whole exhaust so just making sure clearance wont be an issue. Lowering the car wouldnt affect this unless you have modified the sub frame mounting bushes.

Thats a really good idea, I wish I thought about that before I put my sub frame

My doesn't hit, but I cant remove the exhaust without removing the sub frame, maybe some extra clearance would help that.

I'll be honest woody, i dont think what ive done would make any difference in the removal of the exhaust. Ive only done the rear part of the frame, i did think about the front but decided not to. Hope that makes you feel better