Rear Droplinks

Think I will use ADS78506 next time as they 15mm shorter .

Another thing you can do here is a bit like bob was mentioning about drilling another hole.
If you drill another hole as close as sensibly possible to end of roll bar & use that hole for your link you are actually making the rollbar softer as you are changing (increasing in this case) the radial distance between the roll bar d-bush & the load point on the rollbar arm so rollbar will flex under less load (act like a thinner bar).
It is possible to extend/reduce the arms/drop link mounting point on standard rollbars & make the standard bars close rating to the whiteline simply by altering this length/leverage. For back ideally you need bit stiffer so reduce radial distance. For front you want softer so increase the radial distance.

What angle should swaybar be at ride height? Like level with the body? Ive seen them facing up and down before or it doesn't matter? Closest picture I could find on Google to what I mean.

Not ultra critical within reason, I think on standard struts they sit facing down a little. with a bit of lowering they probably come closer to level (horizontal).
You can get a good idea as standard link length from centre of balljoint fixing to top of strut link bracket is 110mm on average fitted.

Thanks B exactly what I needed confirmed.

Decided with a cheaper option using the drop links I already had and an m10 coupler. Considering I'll probably only need to adjust them once, this is easier for the time being. Just need cut these down once the car is off stands.

Does the job & I like recycling :-)
Quite easy change lower fitting to bearing or bj at later date.
To keep alignment better if use bj you could have the coupler welded to side of rod locked into the bj then use the offset of the coupler to your advantage for upper bush alignment & have adjustment via coupler & locknut.

Yeah B that isn't a bad idea actually. I have funny feeling but I don't think your meant to use rose joints on suspension components in Australia, that's why I didn't bother with that option yet. Might change to a ball joint down the track, but this should work fine

Think quite a few countries can have issues with rose joints, do pass rules for some with dust boots fitted but to be honest they don't normally last long so when other options are available makes sense use them.

Got my drop links done, would really like the joiners to be longer to give the bottom half of the link more strength but I think they should do the job for the moment.

Mr B wrote:http://www.123spareparts.co.uk/car-parts/HERTH%2BBUSS-JAKOPARTS/Rod-Strut-Stabilizer/p-10145419
Can understand a factors not stock Herth&Buss-JakoPart but very surprised they never heard of them.
Try call a few various motorfactors - someone going stock it.
problem is most links from likes of ADL or Delfi come out at around 165mm in length rather than around 140mm
I crossed it through several part databases & only the H+B-Jakoparts comes out direct match to Nissan part numbers & fitment for GTiR.
All other ones end up being likes of p10 primera front links but they 165mm to 175mm pending on manufacturer.

Ordered the front Stabiliser Links from ICP, but struggled to find anywhere selling rear until I stumbled across this post Other than the one Mr B linked too and Nissan, is there anywhere else that stocks them?

Gaz

http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1383229

thread>
http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4711-rear-drop-links

the Herth & Buss are exact right length & well above average quality so worth getting.
Try phoning few local motor factors, anyone who deals with herth & buss could get it.
other option is ADL blueprint link, it fits but it 25mm longer than standard OEM.
PN for the ADL one is: ADN18535

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Cheers Mr B

Bit of a thread resurrection

Just a quiery, but is there any benefit of running a longer or shorter drop link? I want to replace mine along with some poly roll bar bushes etc, as I don't have the money for a whiteline rear bar yet.

Is there anything I could do drop link wise to tighten up the back end a little whilst im there? i.e.shorter or longer drop link?

Thanks guys.

Nothing really gained in long to short for length differences that allow proper clearance.
Best low cost things you can do is swap out the standard drop link for a balljoint both ends ones ADS78506 & a custom bracket on strut mount point. you can stiffen rear swaybar by moving the link mounting point further inwards towards D bush reducing leverage on the bar .

Doesn't look like there is enough meat on the flat part of the anti roll bar to move the mounting point annoyingly

Luckily I work at a factors and although we cant get herth & buss ive found an ADL part that is almost the same just short by a little, but close - ADN18572



Off the front of an s-body Nissan, 200sx etc.


Hopefully it should fit and be good as it looks good otherwise.

Yeh they about 30mm short, other one that gets used is ADN18535 but they almost 30mm too long, ADL range has nothing in-between .
to adjust mount point on swaybar requires a flat plate bolted/welded on with link holes drilled to suite, can make big difference moving them 50 to 75mm.

Could you find me a pic of what you mean Mr B?

Quick computer sketch of what I mean .

The blue section is some flat plate that welded down leg of roll bar then drilled for drop link connection points. would have be done using double ball joint drop link to cope for angles & allow some offset correct via custom offset mount from strut droplink bracket, page2 of this thread shows some details related to that .