Broken Sub-Frame Stud

Has anyone had this before??



Even thou the nut was soaked in wd and threads wire brushed, the stud broke straight away when trying to undo it!
Not sure how they mount into the chassis, and appreciate the metal insert from the bush is suck over the top.

So current plan is remove the outer bush, cut the stud abit higher and machine up a new tapered and threaded section which I can Tig onto the existing part. (abit like this).



Any Views / advice welcome.

Cheers

It's been a number of years since I saw it but if I remember correctly the pin has a large head/plate which comes through a hole in the section and is spot welded in place.

The whole section can be removed if you drill out the spot welds and you could turn a new pin and install it but it's a huge amount of work.

Instead of simply welding a new section on I would probably consider tapping a thread in the original pin and putting a matching threaded section on your replacement piece, if done correctly this will ensure proper alignment as well as giving an additional mechanical fixing to minimise any distortion from welding. Make sure the grade of steel you use is suitable for task as well as welding as many machining friendly grades are unsuitable for welding.

You could turn a guide for drilling and tapping the original pin.

As a side note I would inspect the face where the subframe bushes butt up against, I have on more than one occasion found corrosion around the pin between the sections where the pin is spot welded into the housing., Similar to the corrosion that occurs on the front ARB mounts.

I've had that happen before and to be honest I just cut a hole in the frame where I could access the back side and then dropped a long bolt in there after cutting the old stud out. Put a few tack welds on the back side to hold it. Seemed to work ok.

Cool thanks for the help and advise!

Think I'll try a thread and weld version first and see how that goes, abit of en8 should work well for all the needs. Failing that i'll go for a plan B of cut and stud.


Many Thanks

En8 (or rather 080M40) is probably a good choice, turns lovely and welds decent too.