Parasitic Battery Draw

So ive watched a few vids, but im confused and may as well ask.

I want to do a parasitic battery draw test.

What settings do I need to put this multi-meter on?

Remove negative battery cable
Stick black in COM
Red in 10a or 20a - Don't use MaH
You need to set multimeter on DC 10a to start with
Red cable on negative battery cable
Stick black cable on negative battery terminal
Any reading above 0.05 is a drain (iirc)
I use crocodile clips to secure the multimeter cables to the battery
Unplug suspect fuses one by one, give it a few seconds for the multi meter to reflect changes, don't forget to plug them back in.
If you go into the cabin, unplug the meter first and stick down the door switch and plug it back in or you can damage the meter, same with turning ignition on, always unplug it if you're gonna put a high load through the circuit.

Good luck

Easy smoke an unfused meter so be careful, newer cars are a nightmare as only get a window of time after initial sleep before wakes up again doing tests .
R pretty basic though, I like testing right at fuse box, voltage drop test right at fuses and making a break out with old fuse, a fuse holder and some wire so can add in amp meter inline or inductive on a cable loop .
uni-t 210e pretty useful cheap meter with inductive clamp and good resolution for some quick and easy first stage auto elec tests .

Solar panel chargers are your friend I have 4 of them haha put one on the dash arid of the car when not using them pm battery is always fully charges even in rainy Britain

Thanks a lot guys that makes sense, not that my car is ever running but Ive got a couple of suspect things to check

Usually with mine it's been radio draining, so I always Earth the metal casing which seems to fix it, starter motor on its way out or stupidly the tailgate not latched down properly ????????

I thought id start with the aftermarket stuff, haltech, gauges, stereo, maybe thermo and fuel pump relays then go from there.